Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello GMCers....

 

I am a longtime Ford guy considering switching from a F-350 Powerstroke to the GMC 3500 Duramax.   With that said....   I am here to learn and ask some questions from you experts so I appreciate any help you can provide.

 

  1. I tow heavy - 15K 5th wheel with a heavy pin weight. My F-350 has a solid front axle. Obviously these 2024 GMC's have IFS. Anyone noticed any negatives to the IFS when towing heavy?
  2. Being a engineer, I like data and I like to see what is going on with my truck - especially when towing in the mountains. In my F-350, I can easily see turbo boost level, engine coolant temperature, transmission temperature, and DEF level (actual amount not just a low indicator). I have watched a few reviews and I haven't see where actual coolant temperature could be displayed on the driver console as well as turbo boost. Am I missing something or is this information unavailable?
  3. On the driver info panel, I have noticed the speedometer is on the left and the tachometer is on the right.  OMG - this is the exact opposite of every other vehicle I have ever driven.  Can this be changed?  I hate to say it but this really bugs the crap out of me when I look at pictures of it....
  4. I have always owned crew cabs with short beds which in the Ford world comes with 28 gallon tank. On my last three Ford's. I have installed the Titan 50 gallon tank. I see that Titan offers similar tanks for the 2024 GMC. So my question is can you easily reprogram the DTE (distance to empty) function with the new fuel tank size? On my Fords, I was able to do this myself with the appropriate tool via the OBD2 port. I saw a notice on TitanTanks that you couldn't reprogram GM truck's fuel tanks size.  Is that really true?
  5. General feedback on the new infotainment system in these 2024 GM HD trucks. Do you like it? Any issues especially with wireless apple carplay or android auto?

 

Also, I was struggling trying to find detailed specs on the 2024 3500 - especially towing information.   I finally yesterday I stumbled upon the link below which gives a ton of good information on specifications, towing as well as all the ordering code info.  You guys probably already have it but I thought I would at least try to contribute.  🙂

 

2024 GMC HD Online Order & Reference Guide

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, gascantx said:
  1. Negatives - no, some might say the IFS offers many positives, the only exception being raw weight capacity. Unless you are loading a significant amount of weight on the front axle, you wouldn't see any advantage to a solid axle.
  2. All you can see is coolant and transmission temperature.
  3. Seems like this would be annoying for a week, then you'd get used to it. 
  4. Never checked, but I'd bet reprogramming the tank size isn't 'easily' done.

 

Posted

You might want to download the owner's manual for the truck you are interested in and see if the dash can be customized the way you want.  Sometimes the Denali trim level has its own manual so watch for that.

Posted (edited)

Thank you sir for the reply....

 

Yeah, I actually like the idea of the IFS and I agree with your comment.

 

It would seem that GM's are not showing as much details from the various sensors as the Fords.  I suspect the data is there, GM has just decided to not show it.  Which is a bit of a bummer IMO.

 

Hmm I disagree with the speed/tach switch around.  If every other vehicle you drive is not like that - this makes GM non-standard and annoying.   IMO - bad decision on GM's part.  

 

In the Ford world there is an app called "Forscan" - https://forscan.org/home.html

You can customize tons of stuff with it.   It is how I reprogrammed my tank size in my F-350.  Easy and simple.  I assume there is nothing like that in the GM world.

 

Note: I am not trying to bash GM - just trying to learn and understand the nuances of making the switch. Ford has pissed me off enough that it is going to happen but I suspect some of these GM features and lack of features is going to try my patience.  LOL.

 

Thank you again!

Edited by gascantx
  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, swathdiver said:

You might want to download the owner's manual for the truck you are interested in and see if the dash can be customized the way you want.  Sometimes the Denali trim level has its own manual so watch for that.

 

Yup, I pulled it down.  Documentation leaves a lot to be desired....   If a local dealership ever keeps one of these 2024's on the lot long enough, I will go over and inspect it myself.  🙂

 

Thank you sir!

  • Like 1
Posted

2.  You will need a Banks iDash or similar to get the turbo boost, they are coming out with a mount that attaches to the A-pillar mounting bolt. 

 

  I kept the iDash from my 2020 Sierra 2500 Diesel.  I also displayed DPF soot level %, Regents status, post DPF exhaust temp, as well as Turbo boost. 

 

  I will install it in my 2024 GMC 3500 AT4 after the mount is in production and I receive one.

 

  Honestly, I don’t look at the speedo or tach anymore.  Having the speed on the heads up display made the dash speedometer irrelevant for me.  I do like the option of having the truck TPMS display on the left side of the dash as well as the Trailer TPMS on the infotainment screen far right screen.  

 

  Good luck with your decision.

  • Like 2
Posted
13 hours ago, asilverblazer said:

If you like Ford stay with them. I only own GM and wouldn’t switch. I work in construction and am in and around Super Duty every day. I don’t like the way they drive or handle like my GM’s. But Ford knows and caters to the work crowd and do well. No jumping through hoops to get upfitter switches and plugs etc. Ford cares about construction and heavy pulling. Gm is for the mall crawlers. Don’t get me wrong, plenty of people tow alot with Gm including me. Your gauge and temperature,boost gauges show how Ford cares. If Corvette can configure there gauges so should a truck that costs more! Stay with Ford!

Posted
8 hours ago, kf9yr said:

2.  You will need a Banks iDash or similar to get the turbo boost, they are coming out with a mount that attaches to the A-pillar mounting bolt. 

 

  I kept the iDash from my 2020 Sierra 2500 Diesel.  I also displayed DPF soot level %, Regents status, post DPF exhaust temp, as well as Turbo boost. 

 

  I will install it in my 2024 GMC 3500 AT4 after the mount is in production and I receive one.

 

  Honestly, I don’t look at the speedo or tach anymore.  Having the speed on the heads up display made the dash speedometer irrelevant for me.  I do like the option of having the truck TPMS display on the left side of the dash as well as the Trailer TPMS on the infotainment screen far right screen.  

 

  Good luck with your decision.

Thank you for responses.   I was wondering about the iDash or CTS4....   I appreciate the confirmation.  Very good point about the HUD.   

 

Thanks!

Posted

I literally never noticed or cared about what side the Speedo was on. I can’t even tell you what side any of them were on in any car I’ve owned. I’m actually trying to think of what side my daily drivers is on and it’s in the garage right now. Ha

Posted

I understand being able to see data that you like, reliability is more important. You don't mention your experience about reliability with the Fords. 

 

Posted
1 hour ago, diyer2 said:

I understand being able to see data that you like, reliability is more important. You don't mention your experience about reliability with the Fords.

 

Reliability is definitely important.  However, my desire and view point on this topic is rooted in critical operational monitoring.  As I said, I tow heavy and I while I don't abuse my trucks, I work them hard especially when we tow through the mountains and in the Texas heat.   Knowing exact values of temperature and other sensors allow operators who pay close attention to spot small problems before they become big problems.   

 

My main reason for ditching Ford is a reliability issue... 

 

Note: I don't want to turn this into a Ford Bashing thread but I will share my story....

 

My 2011 Super Duty was one of the very first trucks to have the CP4 High Pressure Fuel pump failure.  Once replaced that truck ran like a rock until I traded it in 2017 for my 2017 (current) Super Duty.  I just assumed I had a fluke.  Well my 2017 had a CP4 failure 3 weeks ago.  Sigh!!!   OMG and it has been a nightmare.  Ford tried hard to deny the extended warranty claim but my truck is well maintained (never ran it out of fuel, never had def or water in the fuel tank, always changed filters on schedule, etc..).  They finally approved after pictures proved to them there was no rust in the high pressure fuel system.   Now we are in parts limbo.   The parts all backordered with no availability date supplied....  It could be months.   Summer and fall travel has been canceled so this has impacted myself and my family.   If you do your research on the Bosch CP4, it is inherently a bad design.  Ford, GM, Dodge/Cummings have all used it.   GM finally went totally away from Bosh in 2017. (Great decision IMO)  Cummings used it for two years and then ditched it.   Ford - in its infinite wisdom - has used it from 2011 and continues to do so.   It is the achilles heel of the 6.7 PowerStroke.  Many people put 100's of thousands of miles on Super Duty's and never experience but I have had it hit me twice now.  Hence my desire to learn and figure out my transition to GM.   I can't bring myself to purchase a Dodge / RAM especially with the latest JD Power Initial Quality results which puts Dodge/RAM at the VERY bottom of the list.  (Cummings engine is fine - it is the rest of the truck and systems that are the problem).   

 

Posted (edited)

If gauges are super important to you, buy a scan gauge 3. They have more data and gauges available than any stock vehicle would come close to having. The data is all there in these vehicles but the manufacturer only allows some of it to be seen. The scan gauge plugs into the obd port and pulls all of it that’s available. Been using them since around 2008 or so. 

Edited by Pryme
Posted

+1 for Scangauge.

 

On gauge layout, I got used to it immediately.  I don't even look at the speedometer as the speed is always listed right in the center top of the gauge.  Tach is an easy glance to the right.  Being able to independently set what's inside the left and right dials is really cool.

 

Infotainment has been great.  My only beef with it is the response to taps when playing media (i.e. hitting pause) can be slow when running wireless AA.  Feels like the screen isn't responsive, but it actually is.  Imagine this is just something to do with the phone interface wirelessly as my other vehicles with the wired phone never had this issue.  Minor nuisance.

 

Major nuisance on the non-Denali/AT4 trim at least is the metallic trim piece that rides right under the infotainment screen.  That thing is a glare factory.  It sucks.  I hate it.

 

Try it for a while with the factory 36 gallon tank.  I've been very impressed with the range I get with that tank when towing my camper.  I plan our trips so we stop to pee every two hours or so and top off with gas.  Most of the time I was putting in 17 gallons or so.  I didn't find myself wanting a bigger tank a single time last month when I went cross-country and back.  My previous truck was 26 gallons, which was hairy at times when crossing Northern NM, Southern CO.  Not with the extra 10 gallons.

Posted
23 minutes ago, Pryme said:

If gauges are super important to you, buy a scan gauge 3. They have more data and gauges available than any stock vehicle would come close to having. The data is all there in these vehicles but the manufacturer only allows some of it to be seen. The scan gauge plugs into the obd port and pulls all of it that’s available. Been using them since around 2008 or so. 

 

Awesome - thanks for the feedback.  I was not aware of Scanguage.   I am going to have to investigate that more.   🙂

 

Posted
15 minutes ago, UWSkier said:

Try it for a while with the factory 36 gallon tank.  I've been very impressed with the range I get with that tank when towing my camper.  I plan our trips so we stop to pee every two hours or so and top off with gas.  Most of the time I was putting in 17 gallons or so.  I didn't find myself wanting a bigger tank a single time last month when I went cross-country and back.  My previous truck was 26 gallons, which was hairy at times when crossing Northern NM, Southern CO.  Not with the extra 10 gallons.

 

I appreciate all your comments. Thank you sir!

 

On the fuel tank however, I currently running the 50 gallon Titan Tank in my F-350.  I can't go back to a smaller tank - ever.  We routinely run 400 to 450 mile travel days with the RV where I usually get about 9.5 to 10 MPG.  So I can do a full day without a fuel stop.  I will have to replace the tank or go to an in bed auxiliary tank (not ideal) but can be done.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...