Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Centre stack switch sends a signal to the body controller.

 

Body controller ignores the signal if vehicle isn't in park. 

This can be verified while the vehicle is stationary.  It's checking gear position, not vehicle speed.

 

If it drops when driving, it's not because the centre stack button was pushed while going down the road. 

 

 

I'd also like to know the cause. 

 

Unlatched while stationary?

My tonneau is adjusted tight enough that the tailgate needs a little 'help' to drop after it has been unlatched -- so gate unlatched while stationary and truck jiggling while going down the road might achieve this. 

 

Fault with unlatch module or tailgate buttons?  

 

 

 

Maybe they can adjust the programming so that a longer button press is required.

Perhaps accompanied by a chirp and message on the screen or DIC that the unlatch was activated.

 

Edited by redwngr
Posted
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

Centre stack switch sends a signal to the body controller.

So, sounds like if the button were not connected, nothing else would be affected. How did you come by this information?  I ask, because maybe we can get a wiring diagram, and instead of having to dismantle all the stuff to get to the button to disconnect it, if we could trace a wire, perhaps we could simply snip the wire somewhere more easily accessible. We can then put spade connectors connectors on it so if we want to reconnect the wire, we can.

 

Or, maybe there is a wire at the body control module we can disconnect at the harness. I assume if the button sends a signal to the BCM, it has to be its own wire, which would not affect the other buttons or key fob.

Posted
3 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

So, sounds like if the button were not connected, nothing else would be affected. How did you come by this information?  I ask, because maybe we can get a wiring diagram, and instead of having to dismantle all the stuff to get to the button to disconnect it, if we could trace a wire, perhaps we could simply snip the wire somewhere more easily accessible. We can then put spade connectors connectors on it so if we want to reconnect the wire, we can.

 

Or, maybe there is a wire at the body control module we can disconnect at the harness. I assume if the button sends a signal to the BCM, it has to be its own wire, which would not affect the other buttons or key fob.

No from what has been said in the past. It's a circuit board with all of the center switches attached. It only has 1 set of wires plugged into it so if you unplug it all of the switches on the center stack will not work.

 

Posted
5 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

So, sounds like if the button were not connected, nothing else would be affected. How did you come by this information?  I ask, because maybe we can get a wiring diagram, and instead of having to dismantle all the stuff to get to the button to disconnect it, if we could trace a wire, perhaps we could simply snip the wire somewhere more easily accessible. We can then put spade connectors connectors on it so if we want to reconnect the wire, we can.

 

Or, maybe there is a wire at the body control module we can disconnect at the harness. I assume if the button sends a signal to the BCM, it has to be its own wire, which would not affect the other buttons or key fob.

You can get a schematic diagram in the upfitter docs. 

(at https://www.gmupfitter.com/)

 

 

You can test the 'in gear' / 'not in gear' thing with the truck parked. 

 

 

 

Posted
9 hours ago, redwngr said:

You can test the 'in gear' / 'not in gear' thing with the truck parked. 

 

 

 

I'm confused. Why do you mention this? I don't want the button to work at all. Am I missing something here? 

Posted
9 hours ago, redwngr said:

You can get a schematic diagram in the upfitter docs. 

(at https://www.gmupfitter.com/)

 

 

 

Not sure if I downloaded the right one, but in looking at the schematics, they refer to the switch as "Vehicle Stability Control Switch". Why is that? Also, it looks like that control has its own ground. Would disconnecting that ground stop the switch from working? Please keep in mind that I don't know how to completely read schematics. 

Posted
4 hours ago, MrLeadFoot said:

I'm confused. Why do you mention this? I don't want the button to work at all. Am I missing something here? 

 

Many threads/posts have been thinking that it is getting pushed while travelling, causing tailgate to open. 

 

I'll stop now

Posted

Switch bank.  On these new interior trucks (2022.5+up) the switch "bank" is made up of 3 or 4 individual switch sets, depending on the options of the truck.  

 

The two below are using a VIN from a 2023 Denali 1500.  

 

tcandtailgate.jpg.3881e4dad00306b315745f7ff2c79e1e.jpg

 

Notice this section for example.  Hazards, tailgate and traction control switch.  This one is the "S86 Vehicle Stability Control Switch" in the GM connector end charts.  Unplugging this will result in a code for the traction control switch and quite possibly all sorts of service stability, traction disabled and various other lights and warnings.  

 

I guess my question is how the heck do people bump this switch at all?  Are they sticking a freaking laptop in their console?  I've never once bumped that button unwantedly in my truck.  Ever.  

 

 

 

astop.jpg.f716714fc7b04170d9534864ad98752d.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, redwngr said:

 

Many threads/posts have been thinking that it is getting pushed while travelling, causing tailgate to open. 

 

I'll stop now

You don't need to stop. You've been helpful, so don't stop.

 

As you've proved, the tailgate button does not function when traveling. People must be bumping the button when they reach to shift or put something in the storage area prior to moving, but the angle at which the truck is parked puts enough pressure on the tailgate to prevent it from physically opening, even though the latch is released. Then, when they move, the tailgate opens. At least, that's my thought. Either way, that button is obviously a problem, and is an accident waiting to happen!

Edited by MrLeadFoot
Posted (edited)
58 minutes ago, newdude said:

I guess my question is how the heck do people bump this switch at all?  Are they sticking a freaking laptop in their console?  I've never once bumped that button unwantedly in my truck.  Ever.  

You shouldn't have said that, cause you just jinxed yourself. It's not a matter of "if" you bump it, it's a matter of "when" you bump it. Just hope you don't bump it when you're backed up against a concrete wall in a parking garage. The way that button works is a nightmare. It's simply too easily bumped. I've had mine bumped many times, and here are a few:

 

- While simply putting an eyeglass case in the storage area, the case glanced off the button and it oened the tailgate. Luckily I had to back out of the space, and the camera showed the ground. Took me a minute to realize what happened.

 

- While reaching to retrieve a piece of paper, I reached over the shifter and bumped the button. Obviously, the placement of the shifter increases the chances of the button being bumped, unlike in prior year models.

 

- While loading up for an outing on my boat, a passenger temporarily placed their water bottle part way into the drink holder, thinking they would seat it properly when we got in to go after loading. From the jostling of the vehicle while loading up, the bottle tipped over and bumped the button. Luckily, the tailgate clears my trailer winch stand.

 

- While running a cloth lightly over the center stack while cleaning the interior, the pressure of the wipe was just enough to trigger the sensitive tailgate button. (Interestingly, the iginition button was designed to be pushed with much more pressure/longer duration to work. In fact, I've found that sometimes I push it too quickly and the truck stays running. The tailgate button, on the other hand, is made way too sensitive, and if you can't turn it off, it should at least be programmed to 2 or even 3 presses.) It is so sensitive that, as I mentioned in an above post, nothing can be wedged between the button and the underlying trim that will keep the button from working. Even with something wedged in that tight space, you can easily still press the button just a hair because the trim below just flexes downward, which is enough to trigger that tailgate.

 

Those are only a few instances of the many times it's been bumped.

 

Now, if someone can help us figure out which wire from the button goes to the BCM to trigger the tailgate latch, we'd be in business.

Edited by MrLeadFoot
Posted (edited)
53 minutes ago, newdude said:

Switch bank.  On these new interior trucks (2022.5+up) the switch "bank" is made up of 3 or 4 individual switch sets, depending on the options of the truck.  

 

The two below are using a VIN from a 2023 Denali 1500.  

 

tcandtailgate.jpg.3881e4dad00306b315745f7ff2c79e1e.jpg

 

Notice this section for example.  Hazards, tailgate and traction control switch.  This one is the "S86 Vehicle Stability Control Switch" in the GM connector end charts.  Unplugging this will result in a code for the traction control switch and quite possibly all sorts of service stability, traction disabled and various other lights and warnings.  

Thanks for digging these up.

 

The button is on it's own circuit even though its wires run through the all-encompassing harness plug. Do you happen to have any resources that might help us find out which wire is the trigger wire that runs from the button to the BCM? I'm not afreaid to admit that I am just not well-versed enough with schematics to figure it out myself.

Edited by MrLeadFoot
Posted
1 hour ago, MrLeadFoot said:

Either way, that button is obviously a problem, and is an accident waiting to happen!

 

41 minutes ago, MrLeadFoot said:

You shouldn't have said that, cause you just jinxed yourself. It's not a matter of "if" you bump it, it's a matter of "when" you bump it. Just hope you don't bump it when you're backed up against a concrete wall in a parking garage. The way that button works is a nightmare. It's simply too easily bumped. I've had mine bumped many times, and here are a few:

 

- While simply putting an eyeglass case in the storage area, the case glanced off the button and it oened the tailgate. Luckily I had to back out of the space, and the camera showed the ground. Took me a minute to realize what happened.

 

- While reaching to retrieve a piece of paper, I reached over the shifter and bumped the button. Obviously, the placement of the shifter increases the chances of the button being bumped, unlike in prior year models.

 

- While loading up for an outing on my boat, a passenger temporarily placed their water bottle part way into the drink holder, thinking they would seat it properly when we got in to go after loading. From the jostling of the vehicle while loading up, the bottle tipped over and bumped the button. Luckily, the tailgate clears my trailer winch stand.

 

- While running a cloth lightly over the center stack while cleaning the interior, the pressure of the wipe was just enough to trigger the sensitive tailgate button. (Interestingly, the iginition button was designed to be pushed with much more pressure/longer duration to work. In fact, I've found that sometimes I push it too quickly and the truck stays running. The tailgate button, on the other hand, is made way too sensitive, and if you can't turn it off, it should at least be programmed to 2 or even 3 presses.) It is so sensitive that, as I mentioned in an above post, nothing can be wedged between the button and the underlying trim that will keep the button from working. Even with something wedged in that tight space, you can easily still press the button just a hair because the trim below just flexes downward, which is enough to trigger that tailgate.

 

Those are only a few instances of the many times it's been bumped.

 

 

 

 

Man, that all sounds like a you problem...

 

...anywho...

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

That's what I thought at first, until I saw so many other people saying they are experiencing the same thing. That's why I said not to jinx yourself. Unless you can help me figure out which signal to interrupt, I have to try and be as diligent as you about NOT touching that button inadvertently. 

Edited by MrLeadFoot
Posted

Here is an idea you might be able to use.

 

In my last vehicle I had a tire pressure display unit for my trailer. It was stuck on a flat part of the dash.

 

There was no similar place on my 2023 Silverado. On my truck, the right most switch is a blank and the one next to it is an extra wide switch for powering all windows at once.  I cut a small piece of sheet metal and bent it into an L shape. I used sticky back Velcro and attached the metal to the dash above and below those switches.  Then I attached the display to the metal.

 

This completely blocks access to the blank switch and makes the other hard to reach.  You could do something similar that would block just the one switch. Yes it would be ugly.

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, ExYukon said:

Here is an idea you might be able to use.

 

In my last vehicle I had a tire pressure display unit for my trailer. It was stuck on a flat part of the dash.

 

There was no similar place on my 2023 Silverado. On my truck, the right most switch is a blank and the one next to it is an extra wide switch for powering all windows at once.  I cut a small piece of sheet metal and bent it into an L shape. I used sticky back Velcro and attached the metal to the dash above and below those switches.  Then I attached the display to the metal.

 

This completely blocks access to the blank switch and makes the other hard to reach.  You could do something similar that would block just the one switch. Yes it would be ugly.

I'm not sure how you're using a single L-shaped piece and affixing it both above and below the switch. Can you post a pic? Your description does give me some ideas, though, so thank you. Like maybe I can stick an L-shaped piece of something below the switch so it would be sort of hidden. But, velcro won't work because it will give just enough to allow the button to move slightly and they really are hair-trigger buttons. 

 

In the meantime, my truck includes the ability to not only monitor my trailer tire pressures but also monitors the temperature of each wheel. The sensors came with the truck, too. Doesn't yours have that, too? If so, you don't need that extra tire pressure display anymore, so maybe you can send that piece of metal you made so I can modify it or use it as a prototype for making my own. 😊

Edited by MrLeadFoot

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Idler Pulley… from what I understand GM and Chevy trucks no longer have an idler pulley.. they stretch belts for both belts… I had mine replaced by my local mechanic last year on my Chevy Silverado 5.3 z71 LT.   They have discontinued using them on 2019 through 2026 as of a Google search.
    • Good morning! I have a whirring sound coming from the engine or transmission area when driving w/o towing when I accelerate at 1100 rpm’s. That’s how it started. Yesterday it was more obvious while towing a U-Haul even when not accelerating at 70 mph. I could see where it may have been possibly shifting gears due to a slight grade and the intermittent rpm changes as the transmission was possibly lowering the gear down. It was making the sound multiple times but it is not constant. I replaced the serpentine belt and idler pulley but no change. It only does it when I’m driving. No noise accelerating while in park. Just started @ 53,000 miles. It’s not always there though. Unfortunately, I feel it may be transmission related. Any thoughts or knowledge about the 2022 tranny that anyone can share. I have 2500 miles left on my p-train warranty. Thanks to all for any help! 
    • RAIN. It's dumping buckets. We needed it. What a welcome change...sitting here listening to it pour with my office window open.   Ok, not too much. It's not even September yet, we're not finished with summer yet....
    • If you have actually done it, there must be some secret tool or method of accessing the hidden bolt head that both manifold connections have. Two of the three bolt heads are staring at you in the face from below but the third one is covered by shielding and as far as I know only accessed by removing part of the fender well lining to gain access to it and even then its awful to access or from what I had seen of someone fighting with it on a video.    There is a reason why even mechanics that deal with the awkward or risky business of undoing the exhaust at the manifolds have done the same method others are doing with these L8T by flexing the exhaust if need be or just able to slip the pan out as I did without needing to touch hardware or pry on the exhaust. By rights the two seals should be replace when those joints are cracked loose as well.     
    • Actually it was a lot more controlled then I thought it might be and that isn't actually when I spilled some oil. I had thought prior of rounding up a couple of longer bolts with the same thread to swap out for a couple of the front edge pan bolts and then leaving one bolt left in the back but loosened off and then using a suction device to remove most of the fluid, that certainly would have worked and while I do have a couple of different devices I could have used to suck the fluid, now having done the job once I wouldn't even bother. I had thought of buying one of those pressurized vessels to suck or new fluid in and would if I was doing a job like this on a few vehicles but with one vehicle I just didn't bother and I have pail pumps as well I could have used assuming the hose end would fit into that less than roomy space but being such a thin fluid it pumped well with a quart type pump and just kept the hose into the trans and kept swapping containers and repeat.    What I would change to the method I did though was first jack up just the rear of the truck to put on jack stands to allow more oil to come out of the check plug on the front of the pan ( and as I did, I made sure to put that drain plug back in finger tight ) then follow through by putting the front on jack stands. Also that I would have used a larger sized drain pan in the sense of covering an area wider/longer beyond the transmission but I didn't have one and saw someone else on a youtube video using a masonry mud mixing tub and bought one at a hardware store to use in the future. The main oopsy  I did and why I spilled some oil was all my fault as I neglected to follow my own plan, I should have let down the pan as I did to drain out the front of it as much as would come out but then scooped out the remainder of the oil with the Dixie cup I had sitting there just for that purpose as by that point there is enough room to reach right into the front of the pan and just bail it out basically. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...