Jump to content

FOB Issues

TsRZR2
 Share

Recommended Posts

TsRZR2 Enthusiast

TsRZR2

Posted
Posted

2023 Silverado 1500 ZR2

 

This question has a couple of parts. 
1. I have owned Chevy Trucks even before the FOB existed. I can count on one hand how many times the FOB buttons were accidentally pushed in my pocket. Until this vehicle. It is now rare to walk away from a locked vehicle and it be locked when I come back. I came back to my truck today and it was cranked and unlocked. 
So are there a lot of complaints about FOB sensitivity?

2. If I get out of my truck and walk away, it locks itself. However, if the FOB gets pressed to unlock, it will stay unlocked. Why? Is there a setting I am missing?

oldmann Senior Enthusiast

oldmann

Posted
Posted

I agree this fob is far worse than any before.  I have hit the alarm button 10 times in the last month and a half with this truck.  Never hit a button on my trucks starting in 2007

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted

Never had that problem. Can't blame the fob. 

Try putting the fob in your pocket with buttons facing your leg.

 

TsRZR2 Enthusiast

TsRZR2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

But it has to be the fob. 5 past trucks with fobs and I carry my wife’s Acadia fob if I am not driving the truck. Have an accidental button press maybe once a year. 

Anacortes Army Guy Enthusiast

Anacortes Army Guy

Posted
Posted

For what it's worth, I placed my fob in a leather cover specifically designed for it soon after buying the truck in July of 2020.  I've not had a single incident in over three years of any button being pushed in error as the cover requires more effort to activate the buttons.  Purchased it on Amazon, and a quick search shows many options out there, even for the most recent model years.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
TsRZR2 Enthusiast

TsRZR2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

And that is what I did as well. Put a cover on it and that helped a lot. But still, I am trying to get it across to GM, an $80K vehicle that when accidentally unlocked, will never lock itself back is beyond ridiculous. If I crank it with the FOB then do not get in and go within a certain amount of time,  it shuts down. Unlock it accidentally while downtown at midnight, it just remains unlocked. Too easy for GM to fix. 
 

kickass audio Enthusiast

kickass audio

Posted
Posted

I accidentally rolled my windows down while working so I disabled that option for now.  I know that was all my doing since I was close enough to the truck in the building and was holding boxes up against my side so I 100% hit it while doing my work. I will say the range on the new remote is far longer than the older remotes like my old 1997, 2014 and other cars I have driven. Because of that it doesn't take much to be in range and have it accept the accidental button press.

 

What I will say would be awesome is if GM and other manufacturers could make a lockout button on the remotes. My aftermarket Viper remote start had button lockout where you can go into the menu and turn it on so after 30 seconds of no button pressing it will lock the buttons and require you to press the function key and then unlock to unlock the remote and allow you to send a command with the fob. I always used that mode when I was in range of my truck which had a 1 mile line of sight connection and I was bouncing around like in an amusement park or something so I couldn't send a command by accident.

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted

This FOB sucks. If I carry it in my front pocket of my jeans, which is where I would also carry the one for the Camaro or my wife's Acura, I have a better than 50% chance of finding the truck unlocked when I approach it. The fact that GM removed the "auto re-lock" feature from this truck that I had in my 2015 (and also have in the Camaro, the wife's Acura, and literally every car I've ever owned that used remote unlock functions) is a serious concern for me. 

 

I'm looking for a case for it that would actually completely cover all of the buttons since I don't care about remote start and the rest is all proximity based anyhow.

Anacortes Army Guy Enthusiast

Anacortes Army Guy

Posted
Posted
28 minutes ago, ember1205 said:

This FOB sucks. If I carry it in my front pocket of my jeans, which is where I would also carry the one for the Camaro or my wife's Acura, I have a better than 50% chance of finding the truck unlocked when I approach it. The fact that GM removed the "auto re-lock" feature from this truck that I had in my 2015 (and also have in the Camaro, the wife's Acura, and literally every car I've ever owned that used remote unlock functions) is a serious concern for me. 

 

I'm looking for a case for it that would actually completely cover all of the buttons since I don't care about remote start and the rest is all proximity based anyhow.

My FOB completely covers all buttons.  I assume the company makes them for the newer model trucks as well, but I don't know that for a fact.  Here's a link to the Amazon product I bought for my 2020:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ST3Y642/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

FOB.jpg

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Anacortes Army Guy said:

My FOB completely covers all buttons.  I assume the company makes them for the newer model trucks as well, but I don't know that for a fact.  Here's a link to the Amazon product I bought for my 2020:  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ST3Y642/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

FOB.jpg

 

Interesting design, but I -believe- the buttons on the fob for your truck are slightly below the edges of the fob while mine are flush. Much easier to press as a result. I wonder if there's a "slip in case" that would provide a hard cover over the buttons for mine...

 

Here's the two fobs for comparison:

 

 

Screenshot 2023-12-02 at 5.19.28 PM.png

ember1205 Senior Enthusiast

ember1205

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, TsRZR2 said:

This one seems to do the trick for the most part. 

IMG_6322.jpeg

 

Thanks... I actually have that one on my list to try.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...