How long our 2.7T engines need to be warmed up?

[Interleukin6]

3 hours ago, customboss said:

Good recommendations in general provided so far Interleukin6. 

 

I have ~46000 miles on my 2022 LTD Custom Trail Boss and drive and operate in a colder very remote  mountain area. 

 

The Custom analog instruments set up is old school on presentation so thats what I am sharing below. 

 

I drive away on initial fire up after the start fast idle returns below 1000 rpm and the analog guages do their full move to the right and return to full left then return to indicate conditions.  This cycle also includes a turbo PRV ( pressure relief valve ) test that takes a bit longer. In very cold temps it will fart if you move and throttle it will burble until its done testing its ability to seal.  

 

This design has a three valve ECM controlled ELECTRIC coolant system so it will cool and warm based on what YOU command but provide idealized cooling and warming as programmed. If you turn our analog heater control to full hot it will bias to heat the cockpit. FAST.  The oil pump adjusts automatically to provide ideal FLOW VOLUME to the engine at all times regardless of oil viscosity or temp.  

 

If you are running a 5w30 high quality engine oil and its above -27F absolute ambient temp it can be driven away in less than a minute with all the elements listed above. I drove it at that temp when new and it did fine with AcDelco ( mobil full syn version) 5w30 with no issues but you'll see the oil pressure drive up to 60 -70  psi and watch the getrag like oil pump drop that down to < 30 in seconds. That pump makes noise at higher pressures that one can hear as it adjusts that it sounds like a fan belt bearing or tensioner making a slight warbeling noise.

 

I am currently testing a HD diesel/CNG engine oil in mine that is 10w30 and its a syn blend with essentially no ZDDP additives and it is working fine but cold start flow is noticiably different than the Dexos 5w30 but works great with great ring seal and MPG.  

 

Hope that helps just my observations. 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. How about cooling down? Many say cooling down the engine after driving is also very important in turbocharged engines…, which means do I have to idle my engine for minutes after driving, especially long distance? I heard F-150’s cooling system still works for a while for this after the engine is turned off. Of course, our 2.7Ts also have that function, right?

Edited December 8, 2023 by Interleukin6

[Black02Silverado]

3 hours ago, diyer2 said:

If it's 20 or above I start and wait a minute before driving. I agree it will warm up faster driving it. Below 20 I wait until the fast idle drops.

I will add this, when we were working. For many years the wife would start and go, never had an issue. I was doing 3k OCI's then.

 

I just get in and drive. No waiting, even when I lived in PA with the cold winters. 

[diyer2]

I do cool downs when on the freeway if I stop for a potty stop. Or I may leave it running and we take turns using the potty.

Temperature adjusted.

[customboss]

6 hours ago, Interleukin6 said:

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. How about cooling down? Many say cooling down the engine after driving is also very important in turbocharged engines…, which means do I have to idle my engine for minutes after driving, especially long distance? I heard F-150’s cooling system still works for a while for this after the engine is turned off. Of course, our 2.7Ts also have that function, right?

You are welcome. GM does not recommend a cool down period for the turbo or engine since its intercooled and the 3 valve electronic coolant pump will flow coolant to turbo, engine, and radiators. So yes it similar to the Ecoboost.   For both the problem is the oil sits on shutdown. 

 

I surmise that one of the issues with oil consumption for some of us is that the turbo oil residing in high heat areas is not cooled fast enough by the coolant flow after shutdown and there is a small volume of oil that is cooked.  Theory now NOT  firmly established science.  I am testing it. Head to 2.7 fan club thread I share more there.  I just started observing a 1 minute idle before shutdown after changing to the DELO 600 ADF 10w30. 

 

I know the engine oil I am testing is getting me better ring seal as evidenced by tighter fuel trims and visible tail pipe soot and deposits dropping further than it already was. E15 burns really well in this design but I ran E10 yesterday and it barely had any soot in tailpipe running hard into high headwinds and climbing back up mountain from eastern Colorado 150 miles. 

I'll let @Grumpy Bear  know if I my cams end up like mini louisville slugger baseball bats......with no ZDDP......LOL   

 

 

Edited December 9, 2023 by customboss

[Grumpy Bear]

12 hours ago, redwngr said:

How long also depends on what the start of the drive looks like. 

 

Working fast and hard -- like immediately jumping in the interstate or pulling a large trailer -- requires longer warm-up than meandering thru a residential area to get to main city streets. 

 

Also depends on what you have in the oil pan. 

 

HD-CK4-Engine-Oil-PDS.pdf (hplubricants.com)

 

I picked this PDF only because this company has two versions of the same oil on the same PDS. 5W40 CK-4. Note the differences in CCS, MRV and Pour Points. That difference is in the base oil used. PAO vs Group III.  They use the same add package. Quite a marked difference in low temperature performance with little difference in high temperature viscosity as noted in the VI. 

 

PC-Euro-Engine-Oil-PDS.pdf (hplubricants.com)

 

Compare those two HDEO versions with their Euro 5W40 version. Lower still. 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

10 hours ago, customboss said:

 

I'll let @Grumpy Bear know if I my cams end up like mini-Louisville slugger baseball bats......with no ZDDP......LOL   

 

 

 

You misunderstand friend. I never said there were no other equally effective chemistries. What kind of lab rat would I be with that attitude?  I said, one cannot continue to remove levels of the ONLY chemistry you use and get the same result. Which is exactly what was going on during the trip from SH to SN. 

 

Common sense and my father cautioned me early on to never be the first to the dance or the last one to leave and always know who you are dancing with. The more secret a thing is, the more BS it is. OEM's love to test new and unproven 'things' on the public and let them be the research lab rats at their expense. I've noted the exchange of whale oil for unproven lubricity chemistries that did not work during that transition several times and first esters as well as good examples. Liars do not inspire confidence or trust. It's what OEM's do. Yes, often with a good shove from misguided legislation forcing adaption of things no one has a handle on. 

 

I'll wait and continue what IS working until I see some transparency and consistent performance. 

 

If someone is telling me that the newest SP ILSAC GF6A/B standards have this new strategy nailed down, then I would ask why the chronic cam/lifter, ring face failure rates across multiple manufactures. They didn't miss heat treat every third batch for the last 15 years. 

 

Not looking for a fight. Looking for proof. Long term proof. Like about a decade.

 

Let's see how Toyota does with the 0W8 in the Crown and observe what hit their legendary reliability takes. I'll need to see a few Lexus LS400 motor type results from real world people. 

 

[customboss]

3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

You misunderstand friend. I never said there were no other equally effective chemistries. What kind of lab rat would I be with that attitude?  I said, one cannot continue to remove levels of the ONLY chemistry you use and get the same result. Which is exactly what was going on during the trip from SH to SN. 

 

Common sense and my father cautioned me early on to never be the first to the dance or the last one to leave and always know who you are dancing with. The more secret a thing is, the more BS it is. OEM's love to test new and unproven 'things' on the public and let them be the research lab rats at their expense. I've noted the exchange of whale oil for unproven lubricity chemistries that did not work during that transition several times and first esters as well as good examples. Liars do not inspire confidence or trust. It's what OEM's do. Yes, often with a good shove from misguided legislation forcing adaption of things no one has a handle on. 

 

I'll wait and continue what IS working until I see some transparency and consistent performance. 

 

If someone is telling me that the newest SP ILSAC GF6A/B standards have this new strategy nailed down, then I would ask why the chronic cam/lifter, ring face failure rates across multiple manufactures. They didn't miss heat treat every third batch for the last 15 years. 

 

Not looking for a fight. Looking for proof. Long term proof. Like about a decade.

 

Let's see how Toyota does with the 0W8 in the Crown and observe what hit their legendary reliability takes. I'll need to see a few Lexus LS400 motor type results from real world people. 

 

The limited wear data I have seen for this Chevron Oronite built Delo 600 add pack is mixed. Since retiring in 2020 AND IOM shutting down 2022 with the death of my dear friend Ted Selby RIP,..... I am flying blind somewhat in this individual test. However if it works well and the 2.7L L3B is built as tough as I think it is we might find a lever for our issues here at GM-Trucks. 

 

I can get the DELO 600 10w30 for about $7/qt shipped and thats a nice benefit vs HPL @ $16/qt or others somewhere between. 

 

Grumpy I am losing my mind so be patient with me. You still have yours. I have a lot stuffed in his brain bag after nearly 50 years of independent mostly R&D testing.  If you help me extract that info here I will share what I can to help US ALL. 

 

I am NOT selling anything.  

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

12 hours ago, customboss said:

The limited wear data I have seen for this Chevron Oronite built Delo 600 add pack is mixed. Since retiring in 2020 AND IOM shutting down 2022 with the death of my dear friend Ted Selby RIP,..... I am flying blind somewhat in this individual test. However if it works well and the 2.7L L3B is built as tough as I think it is we might find a lever for our issues here at GM-Trucks. 

 

I can get the DELO 600 10w30 for about $7/qt shipped and thats a nice benefit vs HPL @ $16/qt or others somewhere between. 

 

Grumpy I am losing my mind so be patient with me. You still have yours. I have a lot stuffed in his brain bag after nearly 50 years of independent mostly R&D testing.  If you help me extract that info here I will share what I can to help US ALL. 

 

I am NOT selling anything.  

 

 

 

Let's move this part to "Another Oil Thread". Think the OP got his answer. 

[KinkyDuramax]

My trucks sit outside. I like to remote-start the truck if it's cold enough give it 5-10 minutes by the time I get out and settled in. If it's warmer out, I usually will just sit in the truck until the RPMs drop to normal then be on my way. Usually within 1-3 minutes.

 

I don't really care "wasting fuel" like some users mention here. I have the four banger in both trucks. 

[customboss]

On 12/12/2023 at 7:16 AM, ARedSierra said:

My trucks sit outside. I like to remote-start the truck if it's cold enough give it 5-10 minutes by the time I get out and settled in. If it's warmer out, I usually will just sit in the truck until the RPMs drop to normal then be on my way. Usually within 1-3 minutes.

 

I don't really care "wasting fuel" like some users mention here. I have the four banger in both trucks. 

A critical factor every one of us must consider is..... deposit formation from our DI 4 bangers idling and making carbon and varnish. I use Amsoil PI every 4000 miles and mostly run E15 fuels to get that extra cleaning.  Oil contributes to limiting that deposit formation.  Keeping the injectors clean will keep your valves clean. If any of those load its a slippery slope of loading up crap warming.  

 

 

 

 

[KinkyDuramax]

On 12/15/2023 at 9:22 AM, customboss said:

A critical factor every one of us must consider is..... deposit formation from our DI 4 bangers idling and making carbon and varnish. I use Amsoil PI every 4000 miles and mostly run E15 fuels to get that extra cleaning.  Oil contributes to limiting that deposit formation.  Keeping the injectors clean will keep your valves clean. If any of those load its a slippery slope of loading up crap warming.  

 

 

 

 

I've heard mixed thoughts about additives. I just put gas and drive. Nothing will last a decade anymore.

[calgator73]

When I had to park outside, I just hit the auto start on the way out the door...30s later I'm in reverse heading down the driveway.  All you need is oil pressure and away you go.  Driving will allow truck to heat up much quicker, especially with small displacement turbo, and hasten cat light off.