Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just read where GM has put a stop sale on 2024 Sierras and Silverados. Problem with roof splitting on the passenger side. Can't see it because trim is in the way.

Fix is stop drill, TIG weld coat the weld, repaint and recoat. Trucks on the road will be recalled. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

There is something I don't understand. Wouldn't the driver side be put together the same way and be affected the same as the passenger side? And OMG I've got to change that profile pic.

Edited by Merrill Broad
Posted

Ouch......brand new $70K truck with a patch job on the roof. 

Nice!

 

So why is this happening? 

Why just the passenger side?

Who says drilling at each end of the crack will stop a new crack from forming?

 

Posted
25 minutes ago, BigMick2023 said:

 

So why is this happening? 

Why just the passenger side?

Who says drilling at each end of the crack will stop a new crack from forming?

 

 

 

No idea.  Being its a small window of trucks affected, it sounds like its a product defect in the roof panel or something that put stress on that side during assembly (body welding jig was off?) while the roof was spot welded in place.  There are 20-25 spot welds in various locations on the door sides of the roof panel, and about 28-30 at the front and rear each.  The split however appears to not be at those, rather, where the metal is stamped downards.    

 

As for drilling, that is normal in stopping stress cracks.  You drill either end of the crack to relieve the stress points for the rest of the panel.  Its referred to as "stop drilling" a crack.  It rounds out the end point of the crack, which blunts the crack and reduces the stress.  

  • Like 3
Posted
16 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

No idea.  Being its a small window of trucks affected, it sounds like its a product defect in the roof panel or something that put stress on that side during assembly (body welding jig was off?) while the roof was spot welded in place.  There are 20-25 spot welds in various locations on the door sides of the roof panel, and about 28-30 at the front and rear each.  The split however appears to not be at those, rather, where the metal is stamped downards.    

 

As for drilling, that is normal in stopping stress cracks.  You drill either end of the crack to relieve the stress points for the rest of the panel.  Its referred to as "stop drilling" a crack.  It rounds out the end point of the crack, which blunts the crack and reduces the stress.  

Thanks for your information.......just seems weird and can't say I would want this done to my new expensive truck. 

 

Glad my 2023 is not part of this issue.......mine has been absolutely flawless so far. 

Love it....

Posted

If it got this far you know it had to be bad.  3000 trucks would only be a few days production so they likely caught the defect at some point and then waited to see if warranty work showed up. 

Posted

The picture from the link @BuckWallace provided looks to me like a material thinning issue during the stamping process. The drip rails in that area have pretty tight radii in the corners, if the factory received material not to spec, this process was designed maybe a little too close to the splitting of the material (or not accounting for material thinning during cab stress tests), or if someone at the factory on the press just thought "hey imma know better than dem stooopid enganeers" and changed the process set points without validating the impacts on the end panel this for sure could happen.

 

I hope it's not on my new HD! lol

Posted
On 12/15/2023 at 3:34 PM, newdude said:

 

 

No idea.  Being its a small window of trucks affected, it sounds like its a product defect in the roof panel or something that put stress on that side during assembly (body welding jig was off?) while the roof was spot welded in place.  There are 20-25 spot welds in various locations on the door sides of the roof panel, and about 28-30 at the front and rear each.  The split however appears to not be at those, rather, where the metal is stamped downards.    

 

As for drilling, that is normal in stopping stress cracks.  You drill either end of the crack to relieve the stress points for the rest of the panel.  Its referred to as "stop drilling" a crack.  It rounds out the end point of the crack, which blunts the crack and reduces the stress.  

We used stop drill on aircraft too. As long as it wasn't a critical component. 

Posted

Concerned about this issue. My AT4 HD was built in early December waiting for rail delivery. Already cleaned out my current truck and had the cap removed at the ARE dealer. Truck is stripped to what it was when I first bought it. New cap is already on order. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...