Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have a VIOFO A129 dash cam that I would like to hard-wire into my new truck. I had it hard-wired in my 2019 RAM previously and it worked great.

 

I can figure out how to run the wire as it is similar to my RAM. But I don't know what fuses to tap into. My wiring harness is for the Micro2 Blade Fuses. Previously I had it tapped into fuse that is powered all the time and a fuse that is powered only when ignition is on or in accessory. Can someone please help direct me to what fuses I should use.

 

 

 

 

img-231215111023-0001.jpg

IMG_4213.jpg

IMG_4214.jpg

Edited by 916TrailBoss
Posted

Most tap F26 as the switched / accessory which requires a micro 3 fuse tap (amazon). The constant power can be F8, but the issue with that fuse is that the power is running on the right lead which makes placing the fuse tap in the proper orientation very difficult as it gets pinched next to that big adapter in the middle.

 

I tapped fuse F42 as the constant as it allows proper orientation of the fuse tap (power is also on the right lead).

  • Like 1
Posted

I tapped into F32 for the "keyed" accessory wire and F26 for my constant hot wire. Both require the micro 3 fuse tap. I did this both in my 2022 (refresh) and my current 2024 trucks. Both worked great.

  • Like 2
Posted

Unfortunately, I didn't see the above posts before resolving it today.

 

I used fuse F42 (Electronic Park Brake Switch) 10-amp Micro2 as my constant.

 

Using a circuit tester F26 (USB Ports/Special Equipment option Retained Accessory Power) 10-amp was the only fuse switched. It also uses the 3 prong fuse however the fuse harness I got on Amazon didn't fit. I had to use a file to shave down the edges all around to fit in the fuse slot. Once I did that it work.

 

Hopefully this will help anyone else with a 2024 Silverado.

 

Posted

Not sure if your 2024 will have different fuse locations. But I used F3 for constant power and F20 for keyed power, from the passenger side interior fuse panel.

 

Here is my install video for a Blackvue DR900X-plus. Hope it helps...

 

 

Posted
38 minutes ago, fondupot said:

Not sure if your 2024 will have different fuse locations. But I used F3 for constant power and F20 for keyed power, from the passenger side interior fuse panel.

 

Here is my install video for a Blackvue DR900X-plus. Hope it helps...

 

 

 

The 2022 (refresh) + trucks are different than the pre-refresh trucks. There are 2 post above showing which fuse locations for the refresh trucks.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 12/15/2023 at 12:24 PM, 916TrailBoss said:

I have a VIOFO A129 dash cam that I would like to hard-wire into my new truck. I had it hard-wired in my 2019 RAM previously and it worked great.

 

I can figure out how to run the wire as it is similar to my RAM. But I don't know what fuses to tap into. My wiring harness is for the Micro2 Blade Fuses. Previously I had it tapped into fuse that is powered all the time and a fuse that is powered only when ignition is on or in accessory. Can someone please help direct me to what fuses I should use.

 

 

 

 

img-231215111023-0001.jpg

IMG_4213.jpg

IMG_4214.jpg

These are your friend!

IMG_0751.jpeg

Edited by Mshawn
Posted

With your key off use test light to find B+ on both side of a fuse this will be your power all the time. Next up your test light to find B+ when you turn the power on. This fuse will have power on one side but not the other side, until you turn on the key . Then it will have power on both sides of the fuse. Your ground will be to any good metal surface that is under your dash or around the fuse box. And the you ready to go. I would use a add a circuit to both B+ use the same amp fuse that was originally in that spot

Posted
31 minutes ago, Mshawn said:

With your key off use test light to find B+ on both side of a fuse this will be your power all the time. Next up your test light to find B+ when you turn the power on. This fuse will have power on one side but not the other side, until you turn on the key . Then it will have power on both sides of the fuse. Your ground will be to any good metal surface that is under your dash or around the fuse box. And the you ready to go. I would use a add a circuit to both B+ use the same amp fuse that was originally in that spot

Did you not read the thread? It’s already been resolved. 

 

Also F3 and F20 are dead on the new Silverados. 

Posted
17 minutes ago, 916TrailBoss said:

Did you not read the thread? It’s already been resolved. 

 

Also F3 and F20 are dead on the new Silverados. 

No I didn’t read it all, still good info for someone. Thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/20/2023 at 11:00 AM, 916TrailBoss said:
On 12/18/2023 at 8:44 AM, mjonesjr84 said:

I tapped into F32 for the "keyed" accessory wire and F26 for my constant hot wire. Both require the micro 3 fuse tap. I did this both in my 2022 (refresh) and my current 2024 trucks. Both worked great.

Can you provide a picture of the fuse box with the taps? Also, you said f26 was your constant. I thought that was the switched. 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You could try a used 1, they used that engine in the Astro vans, Plenty of them in the boneyard. Look for a wrecked or rotted 1 so the chance that it was scrapped for that reason and not a mechanical issue will be greater
    • Google converting 98 4.3 spider injection to carburetor if all else fails. 
    • That computer lies!
    • My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...