Possible to install ZR2 lockers into LTZ

[aha1987]

I understand it would be costly and it would be smarter to just buy a ZR2 but I’m Just curious… are ZR2 lockers compatible with other trims such as an LTZ?  

[GETGONE]

Physically yes, but you won't have the factory integrated buttons for the E lockers. I believe the wiring is just power and ground though, so you would really only need to wire up a toggle switch for power. Been considering at least a rear one for mine.

Edited February 17, 2024 by GETGONE

[aha1987]

7 hours ago, GETGONE said:

Physically yes, but you won't have the factory integrated buttons for the 3 lockers. I believe the wiring is just power and ground though, so you would really only need to wire up a toggle switch for power. Been considering at least a rear one for mine.

Are there aftermarket companies that sell the parts or were you going to try to buy factory?

[GETGONE]

Looking at factory since I'm not aware of anyone making aftermarket e-lockers for these trucks yet.

[tonto340]

You should look at Eaton E-lockers.

[GETGONE]

Pretty sure they're the ones supplying them for the ZR2/AT4x. They supply the G80.

[Ronjon]

Any new ground on this? I've had good luck with my G80, would still like to lock up the front. Already have a lot of work done on my truck so I'd rather just upgrade it.

[Daniel Formichelli]

@tonto340 Damn dude were neighbors. I'm in 4 seasons/Autumn Gold. Where you at?

[luke1333]

I would think it wouldn't be too hard, maybe expensive. Buy front ZR2 diff, wiring harness and dash switches and could probably make it look like it came from the factory with it. Bet it wouldn't be bad depending on price of items I listed

[Ronjon]

 

Think any codes would be thrown?

[GETGONE]

You can't just slap in parts anymore. EVERYTHING is controlled by the BCM(body control module). It would require programming which dealers WILL NOT DO! The locker itself should be actuated by just 12V+ and ground. I'm not sure how much current draw there is, so it would probably need to be wired up using a relay with heavy gauge wire and just an on off switch in the cab.

[Gangly]

On 2/18/2024 at 9:02 PM, GETGONE said:

You can't just slap in parts anymore. EVERYTHING is controlled by the BCM(body control module). It would require programming which dealers WILL NOT DO! The locker itself should be actuated by just 12V+ and ground. I'm not sure how much current draw there is, so it would probably need to be wired up using a relay with heavy gauge wire and just an on off switch in the cab.

You should be able to easily bypass the BCM.  The BCM is only needed if you want to integrate it with current control knobs in your vehicle.  If it only needs a 12V power supply and a switch to activate it, you can run that directly from the battery, and back to the battery via an auxiliary switch.  I'll look up the wiring diagram and see what I can find.

[Gangly]

Part Number 25 is the Electronic Locker.

 

So it basically looks like a power supply that runs to the differential, and then back to the Chassis Control Module to go to ground.  That appears to be a simple circuit you could wire directly from the battery, to a switch on your dash, and then to a local ground, bypassing any control module all together.

[luke1333]

41 minutes ago, Gangly said:

Part Number 25 is the Electronic Locker.

 

So it basically looks like a power supply that runs to the differential, and then back to the Chassis Control Module to go to ground.  That appears to be a simple circuit you could wire directly from the battery, to a switch on your dash, and then to a local ground, bypassing any control module all together.

Upon my research I agree. Shouldn't be that bad at all

[tonto340]

On 2/16/2024 at 2:58 PM, Daniel Formichelli said:

@tonto340 Damn dude were neighbors. I'm in 4 seasons/Autumn Gold. Where you at?

I'm on Maytime.