Jump to content

2018 Silverado Intermediate Starting Issues

dye7barrel

By dye7barrel
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

dye7barrel Enthusiast

dye7barrel

Posted
Posted

About 6-weeks ago we were at our property camping and experienced our first issue with this truck. Weather was cold, sub freezing, but not below zero. Truck would not crank over. After turning the key a few times truck fired up and we wrote it off as a one-off occurrence. 

 

Fast forward to today the truck has repeated the issue several times without rhyme or reason. We've tried both keys, flipping key 180, and remote start. Truck will not turn over but fuel pump primes. Then after a minute or two the truck fires up. 

 

When the truck didn't turn over yesterday I checked battery voltage - 12.59v. Today I checked the battery and 12.29v and starts right up. Battery is original to the truck with 62,****** miles. 

 

I am not opposed to taking truck to dealership although I know these types of issues can be difficult to trouble shoot. Any ideas of places to look?

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

My bet would be that the starter itself is your issue. Starter problems and battery cable problems from the battery down the starter are pretty common on the 2014-2018 trucks.

dye7barrel Enthusiast

dye7barrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Did a bunch of research as truck would not start after several attempts. Replaced starter this afternoon and truck fired right up without issue. New starter seems to have corrected the issue for now. 

  • Like 1
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted
27 minutes ago, dye7barrel said:

Did a bunch of research as truck would not start after several attempts. Replaced starter this afternoon and truck fired right up without issue. New starter seems to have corrected the issue for now. 

I just had same thing happen last night and had my truck towed to dealership. They diagnosed same thing, bad starter. I will pick it up tomorrow and I'm hoping that it fixes the problem like yours did...

dye7barrel Enthusiast

dye7barrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 2/5/2024 at 5:24 PM, mikeyk101 said:

I just had same thing happen last night and had my truck towed to dealership. They diagnosed same thing, bad starter. I will pick it up tomorrow and I'm hoping that it fixes the problem like yours did...

What did dealership charge to diagnose and replace?

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, dye7barrel said:

What did dealership charge to diagnose and replace?

Mine got covered under my GM Protection plan. But because there was a disagreement on labor charges, (authorized $170/hour but dealership charges $190/hour) I ended up paying $85. (I had another item repaired at same time under the plan so that explains the $85) Had I not had the GMPP, there was an initial $190 diagnosis charge listed upon dropoff but then that usually gets waived if repair is done.

 

Now if I hadn't had the GMPP, the cost would have been $342 for the starter and $342 for labor. It doesn't list the number of hours but using the $190/hour, looks like it was 1.8 hours for repair.

rlcole321 Enthusiast

rlcole321

Posted
Posted

Quick Tip: if you suspect the starter, try "Tapping" it with a hammer or heavy metal object while someone turns the key (or if nobody is there you can bang it then try to start it), it will most likely start if it is the starter. sometime there's a "dead" spot in the armature windings and if the starter stops in that spot, it won't start, tapping it will "disturb" the armature and cause the starter to work.

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, rlcole321 said:

Quick Tip: if you suspect the starter, try "Tapping" it with a hammer or heavy metal object while someone turns the key (or if nobody is there you can bang it then try to start it), it will most likely start if it is the starter. sometime there's a "dead" spot in the armature windings and if the starter stops in that spot, it won't start, tapping it will "disturb" the armature and cause the starter to work.

Ughhhh! I forgot all about that. I'll bet if I had done that, I could have at least driven to my house Sunday night...

dye7barrel Enthusiast

dye7barrel

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update. So far so good. The intermediate starting issues seem to have been resolved with a new starter. Onward and upward!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 81mmcat
      Higher oil pressure after DFM shut off

      By 81mmcat · Posted

      Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • Coastie05
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Welcome back!
    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...