Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi guys.

 

I have a 2024 2500 6.6L gasser with the 10 speed now with 6k miles on the odometer.  On cold start up (e.g. before heading to work in the morning, or in the afternoon on the way home), I get what I think is belt squeal.  It lasts for 15-20 seconds, and it sounds much worse when I put it in R or D with my foot on the brake.  (The cab is so well insulated, I have to open my door or roll down the window to hear it.)

 

I’ve had it to the dealer twice.  First time they said they couldn’t replicate the problem, which was ridiculous because it did it when I picked it up.  The second time they replaced the belt and idler pulley, but the problem persists.

 

I’m thinking perhaps something about the belt and pulleys is not aligned correctly??  Or could it be something internal to the transmission??

 

Has anyone successfully solved this problem?

 

Here are a couple of vids.  You can hear it really start when I drop it into R and then disappear 10-15 seconds later.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/0HFmp5OGIPM?si=YbCZewrJhMgLuFFx

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/QbSJIw1oYBo?si=DIqD6jAhsdh7QZ3q

 

Thanks!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Get a mechanics stethoscope and have at it. 

... I had to get one to find a sound that was like a barring going, but i could not find it no mater what i did. I finally thought of the mentioned stethoscope and after a bit of searching with it, found the rear small barring on the alternator was the culprit. 

Posted

My 2021 with the 6 speed does the exact same thing.  It's only happens when the truck is cold, but is worse when the ambient temp is warmer/hotter... if that makes sense.

 

It does it for 10-15 secs, is worse when in gear, not moving, just like what your videos show.  It goes away quickly when I being to drive off, and never returns until it has sat for several hours.  I was wondering if it was transmission related, but with the same issue in your 10 speed tells me it most likely is not.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Has anyone had any success  determining the squealing sound? Bought the same truck - 2024 Silverado 2500 - 6.6 L Gas engine.  Noticed the squealing start around 500 miles.  We hear it on startup especially once you hold the brake then shift into forward  or reverse - last for about 30 to 45 seconds. However the same sound appears consistently while driving and you hit the pedal to accelerate.      Have had it to the dealership twice which has been no help. 

Posted

Like i used to say at work. ( it isnt going to get done talking about it ) 

 

  So,,,, why not try some simple things. Like a spray of belt dressing, loosen the belt, turn/shake/feel all the moveable pulleys and such for a possible bad one, or an alternator barring bad. 

 

   I had to buy a mechanics stethoscope to find a sound like a barring going bad. I couldnt find that noise no mater what i did before. I loosened the belt everything moved as it was intended. I started the motor, put that cheap $14 steath on and found the rear barring of my alternator, the small one sounded bad, it moved fine, but after a new alt, noise was gone. 

 

 ( this was on my other pickup, not my new cheby ) By the way, it was a lousy $55 for the core charge on the alt, so i kept it, it cost $42 to fully rebuild the oem that i just gave away a few weeks ago, after not needing it for the last 4 years. So, i should have taken the $55. 

 

And, no noise on my 2024 6.6 gasser WT pickup, so far. 

Posted
On 5/19/2024 at 6:01 AM, CSB7071 said:

Has anyone had any success  determining the squealing sound? Bought the same truck - 2024 Silverado 2500 - 6.6 L Gas engine.  Noticed the squealing start around 500 miles.  We hear it on startup especially once you hold the brake then shift into forward  or reverse - last for about 30 to 45 seconds. However the same sound appears consistently while driving and you hit the pedal to accelerate.      Have had it to the dealership twice which has been no help. 

Mine does the same.  Doesn't matter how long it's been running, but if I'm going 40-50 MPH and am on and off the throttle lightly while coasting, I get the same chirping sound.  It goes away with a bit of throttle or a downshift so I don't think it's belt-related.  Was going to take mine in also for this.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Get a mechanics stethoscope and find it or waste time with the dummies at the dealer.

Posted
On 5/20/2024 at 1:27 PM, UWSkier said:

Mine does the same.  Doesn't matter how long it's been running, but if I'm going 40-50 MPH and am on and off the throttle lightly while coasting, I get the same chirping sound.  It goes away with a bit of throttle or a downshift so I don't think it's belt-related.  Was going to take mine in also for this.


I have the same chirp in the same scenario you described. Did you ever take yours in for it? 

Posted
5 hours ago, Salzette said:


I have the same chirp in the same scenario you described. Did you ever take yours in for it? 

It goes in on Thursday unless something comes up.

Posted
On 6/17/2024 at 4:30 AM, Salzette said:


I have the same chirp in the same scenario you described. Did you ever take yours in for it? 

dealer pinged me and said I'd need to leave the truck for 25 days before they could look at it... looking for different dealership, so no, haven't had it in.

Posted
9 hours ago, UWSkier said:

dealer pinged me and said I'd need to leave the truck for 25 days before they could look at it... looking for different dealership, so no, haven't had it in.

Consumers can’t help each other if this kind of stuff is kept anonymous. 

Posted
4 hours ago, Another JR said:

Consumers can’t help each other if this kind of stuff is kept anonymous. 

autonation, Gilbert AZ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...