Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2015 GMC Sierra 1500 SLT - 82,000 Miles - Original Owner Bought New Off Lot

 

Was having some issues with the headlights turning on so I disconnected the ground cable from the battery to clean the connections for the HID system since wiggling it always fixed it before so I figured it was a bad wire or connection.  After reconnecting the battery, Service Theft Deterrent System popped up and haven't been able to start it. - Never had this happen before.

 

Have tried the following:

Different Key - No Change

New Key Fob Battery - No Change

Disconnecting both Battery Cables for a few hours - No Change

Disconnecting battery cables and touching + & - together for about a minute - No Change

Reset 2015 GMC Sierra Theft Deterrent System Steps - No Change

Unlock the driver's side door with the key and then lock it, and then unlock it again and the system should be cleared.

Use Remote Start - Doesn't work

Turn off and back on multiple times - No Change

 

Reset Theft Deterrent Mode Steps (Similar steps from multiple Threads) - No Change (One Note: My Theft Deterrent Light Never goes off)

  • Insert ignition key.

  • Turn it to the on position.

  • Attempt to start the engine. ...

  • Leave the key in that position until the security light stops flashing. ...

  • Once the light goes off, switch the ignition key to off.

  • Wait about five seconds.

  • Try to start the engine again.

Repeat up to 2 more times - No Change

 

Insert ignition key and turn to the “ON ” position. Do not attempt to start the engine. Leave the key in the “ON ” position for approximately 11 minutes. The security light will be steady on or flashing for the 11-minute period. - No Change

 

Any help would be appreciated.  Luckily it's at home and in the garage (After pushing it in. LOL) since it happened in my driveway.

 

 

 

Posted

Since you already tried disconnecting the battery and it didn't work, what about leaving battery connected but pulling the appropriate fuse?

 

Back on my previous 2005 Silverado, I had something similar happen where the theft deterrent would turn the engine over, but I think was killing the fuel pump so it would never fired up - is that what the 2014-2019s do as well?

 

 

Posted

I’ve looked for a fuse that relates to the security system and have been unable to find it. 

Posted

I tried disconnecting both positive and negative cables of the HID system and leaving them off while trying to start and still didn’t work.  
 

Checked all fuses related to BCM, pulled and tested with meter and reinstalled. 
No Change

Posted

Probably are going to need a scan tool at this point to try and reset the VATS system.

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
Posted
1 hour ago, Mary Beth said:

We are having the same problem what ended up working for you?

Any chance you are using a Range AFM Disabler plugged in to the OBDII port? I ask because I had a no start issue twice last year. I had an older Range module plugged in. First time it happened, I had it towed to the dealer. They diagnosed it as a bad starter and replaced it. The next time it happened about 2 months later, while trying to figure it out, I just happened to pull the Range module and it started right up. I contacted Range and they said they would exchange it for no cost to an updated version. With the newer module, I haven't had any problems since.

Posted
On 3/9/2025 at 11:01 AM, Mary Beth said:

We are having the same problem what ended up working for you?

Our team is here to help, Mary Beth. We would like to get you into the dealership and have an advisor take a look. When you are able, please email us at [email protected] with your VIN, we will keep an eye out. By sending us a message, you consent to the information you provide being monitored and recorded by GM or those acting on GM’s behalf, subject to the GM Privacy Statement: https://www.gm.com/privacy-statement.

  • Haha 1
Posted
On 3/9/2025 at 1:57 PM, mikeyk101 said:

Any chance you are using a Range AFM Disabler plugged in to the OBDII port? I ask because I had a no start issue twice last year. I had an older Range module plugged in. First time it happened, I had it towed to the dealer. They diagnosed it as a bad starter and replaced it. The next time it happened about 2 months later, while trying to figure it out, I just happened to pull the Range module and it started right up. I contacted Range and they said they would exchange it for no cost to an updated version. With the newer module, I haven't had any problems since.

It ended up being the starter wire itself. It was connected but had pulled out just enough to cause the issue.

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, Mary Beth said:

It ended up being the starter wire itself. It was connected but had pulled out just enough to cause the issue.

Glad you got it figured out and thanks for the update. It may help someone else in the future.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Of course refrain from political debate but I myself have very dismal hope for what is all going on up here every where we turn so I nodded my head when I saw this joke.     
    • I'm looking at carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand and lumbar fusion. 
    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...