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Vacuum pump delete towing

Buddy B
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Buddy B Enthusiast

Buddy B

Posted
Posted

Can't seem find anything pertaining to doing a vacuum pump delete with the affects on towing. I have a 19ft center console boat that I tow and was wondering if deleting the vacuum pump will after braking while towing. 2018 Silverado 1500. Thanks 

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted

I don't have any 1st hand knowledge on this but without the vacuum pump you don't have any power brakes! I would think that this would be a very bad idea. Why would you want to?

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newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Willard Burnight said:

Can't seem find anything pertaining to doing a vacuum pump delete with the affects on towing. I have a 19ft center console boat that I tow and was wondering if deleting the vacuum pump will after braking while towing. 2018 Silverado 1500. Thanks 

 

 

Deleting the vacuum pump will affect braking...period.  Towing or not.  Especially post reprogramming for vacuum pump failure (if the pump fails the ABS steps in to assist since you no longer have full vacuum boost).  

 

Even the cars that use the LT1 6.2 (Camaro and Corvette for example) have a vacuum booster but on those its electronic rather than an engine mounted belt driven pump.  

Edited by newdude
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Buddy B Enthusiast

Buddy B

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Posted
55 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

 

Deleting the vacuum pump will affect braking...period.  Towing or not.  Especially post reprogramming for vacuum pump failure (if the pump fails the ABS steps in to assist since you no longer have full vacuum boost).  

 

Even the cars that use the LT1 6.2 (Camaro and Corvette for example) have a vacuum booster but on those its electronic rather than an engine mounted belt driven pump.  

So it's best to just leave it on

reardiff Enthusiast

reardiff

Posted
Posted

Speaking of vacuum pumps... Anyone else have a 2017/2018 still on the original pump?  Mines still going strong after 7 years and 90k miles, but starting to wonder if I'm on borrowed time and change it out proactively, or if it's lasted this long just let it go?  What's the secret to having these last or am I just lucky and got a good one? 

reardiff Enthusiast

reardiff

Posted
Posted

Speaking of vacuum pumps... Anyone else have a 2017/2018 still on the original pump?  Mines still going strong after 7 years and 90k miles, but starting to wonder if I'm on borrowed time and change it out proactively, or if it's lasted this long just let it go?  What's the secret to having these last or am I just lucky and got a good one? 

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted

Mine is still working on 2017 5.3 V8 & about 60k miles. FYI, they should have an extended 10 year or 150k mile warranty.

  • Like 1
superdave160 Enthusiast

superdave160

Posted
Posted

It's my understanding that the vacuum pump is required because the engine doesn't make enough vacuum when in 4 cylinder mode.  If you have removed the DOD system from your engine, then you can also remove the vacuum pump and connect the brake booster to a vacuum source on your intake manifold.  Check the "Mods" or "Engine" forums for posts on this issue.

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
On 11/19/2024 at 11:32 AM, reardiff said:

Speaking of vacuum pumps... Anyone else have a 2017/2018 still on the original pump?  Mines still going strong after 7 years and 90k miles, but starting to wonder if I'm on borrowed time and change it out proactively, or if it's lasted this long just let it go?  What's the secret to having these last or am I just lucky and got a good one? 

That’s a good question. I’m new to the high mileage game. I’ve asked Honda, GM and Hyundai that very question about starters and alternator average life span. That can go with most components that can leave you stranded. I get blank stars. Of course it varies vastly between in town and HWY driving. I can only say that my wife’s 2011 Genesis starter went out with 130K miles on it with no warning. As a in town vehicle it probably gets started at least 5 times a day 7 days a week. The first battery went out 4 years. The second is still in it. I know with my trip vehicle the odyssey with 156K miles on it. I say a little prayer every time I reach for the stater button. Especially when I’m traveling. The dealer says it’s not a common replacement. Bottom line there’s no rule. Maybe instead of 30K injection flush. Use top tier gas. Save the money for a new starter. 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
On 11/19/2024 at 11:32 AM, reardiff said:

Speaking of vacuum pumps... Anyone else have a 2017/2018 still on the original pump?  Mines still going strong after 7 years and 90k miles, but starting to wonder if I'm on borrowed time and change it out proactively, or if it's lasted this long just let it go?  What's the secret to having these last or am I just lucky and got a good one? 

 

My 2015 has 185,000 miles on her. Original brakes and yes, including vacuum pump and works like a dream. I even declined the ABS reprograming. 

 

The secret is clean vacuum pump screens and they stay clean when oil is changed often enough to prevent precipitation of oxidation, nitration, lacquer and varnish products AND/OR use an oil with enough solvency AND dispersant to hold them in SOLUTION for the current oil change interval. There is also the environment to consider. How it is used. I do all three. 5K (shorter) and a high solvent oil (Ester bearing). Not a short haul, stop and go machine and not used much in the winter months.  

 

As this is/was a common issue for original equipment small screen pumps it aught be self evident that the recommended oil license and suggested oil interval is inappropriate. Dexos1Gen2/3 and 7,500 miles. The OEM cure was a pump with a larger mesh passing screen. Also bearing witness to obstruction as the secondary issue. The oil class and interval the 'root cause'. One to expensive for the OEM to 'Fix" with a requalification. 

 

These same fine mesh screens are also present in the VLOM and under the oil pressure switch.  Of these three only the pressure switch is easy to access and a routine replacement on say 40 to 50K mile intervals (replacement) will give one a visual cue as to the effectiveness of you particular situation. That is, even the OEM oil and OCI MAY be effective IF the engines environment is oil friendly. Long haul highway miles in a warmer climate as the bulk of it's existence for example.

 

Let me get my 'blow back' popcorn out:

 

 :lurk: 

 

Thanks for waiting. 

 

 

  • Like 2
garagerog Enthusiast

garagerog

Posted
Posted

The talk of getting stranded by a bad starter reminded me of a story from my youth. Not a bad starter but a weak battery. I grew up on a farm with the closest little town 15 miles away. Battery went bad in Dad's "58 Ford p/u, so we used the park on a hill, coast and pop the clutch starting method to drive that p/u around the farm for probably 2 to 3 months before Dad got around to getting a new battery.  Also used that starting method on my '71 Chevelle SS a couple of times to get home and effect a repair. Starter went bad on my wife, fortunately there was a slight grade in the parking lot of the store she was at, so she pushed and I popped the clutch. 2nd time on the SS it was a bad ignition switch and it happened to my son, gas station so flat as a table top, so son and a couple of his husky friends pushed while I handled the pedal work. Not much in the way of 3 pedals any more, so a healthy starter is a must!

  • Like 1
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Speaking of bad starters, earlier this year, I got stranded outside my ex's house after dropping off our son. Turning the key had no effect. Even using a jump starter did nothing. Had my truck towed to a dealer close to my house where they determined the starter had gone bad. The truck ran fine for several months after that.

 

But in Jul, same thing happened again at my house. While playing around with it, I happened to unplug the Range AFM Disabler from the OBDII port and the truck started right up! I had been using this Range device for the last several years. I contacted Range Technology (now owned by Holley) and they shipped me a new Disabler and had me return the old one to them. No more issues since then.

 

Not sure what changed but one thing I noticed was that with my old one, prior to emissions testing, many of the various sensors would report not ready so that would be an automatic fail. I would have to remove the Disabler sometimes for several days before sensors would be ready for emissions testing. After, I would just plug it back in. On this new one, pretty much all the sensors are ready so I would just have to unplug the disabler as I pulled up for emissions testing. I haven't been able to confirm that as I haven't needed the testing but will once it gets done. I actually run a OBDII splitter and have the disabler plugged in as well as an OBDII reader on other. I do this so I can monitor different engine functions and conditions. This is how I can keep track of the sensors.

mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Oops, I completely glossed over the point I was trying to make in above post. The starter may have not been bad after all. When it first "failed", before it got towed to dealer, I obviously removed the Range device. I didn't try to start it after that and let the dealer diagnose the problem. At the time I didn't know about the correlation of the non start issue and the defective Range device. I didn't discover it until it happened the second time and by accident, figured it out.

rav3 Senior Enthusiast

rav3

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

Oops, I completely glossed over the point I was trying to make in above post. The starter may have not been bad after all. When it first "failed", before it got towed to dealer, I obviously removed the Range device. I didn't try to start it after that and let the dealer diagnose the problem. At the time I didn't know about the correlation of the non start issue and the defective Range device. I didn't discover it until it happened the second time and by accident, figured it out.

Good info. I have a Range Disabler & I have to remove it a week or so before get it inspected (in NC) in order for it to pass inspection. Maybe I should contact them for an update. What year is ur truck? Mine is a '17 5.3 6 speed

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