Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I just got done doing the DoD delete on my '18 L83 Silverado.  I replaced the cam with a BTR L86 cam (very mild) new lifters, lifter trays, dod delete plugs, all new VVT gears, chain, tensioner, oil pump etc.  I also added a 6.2L intake manifold and TB during reassembly.

 

The dots on the cam gear and crank lined up perfect, and engine spun by hand no problem on reassembly.  Once back together I held the throttle down and cranked to build oil pressure before starting.  Foot off the throttle it fired right up as soon as I hit the key. Idled beautiful without a miss, hesitation, lifter tick (reason for the tear down in the first place) or any odd noises.  After a few minutes of idling while I was checking for leaks and listening, the truck just shut off.  No bangs, rattles, smoke, nothing.  Just stopped like someone turned the key off.  Now when I crank the engine spins like it has no compression.  Very free.  No codes or check engine light either.

 

Feeling defeated I called it night cause it was like 10pm and decided to tackle it again today.  Im going to pull some plugs and check compression, and also pull a rocker cover to inspect, but what would cause it to lose compression all of a sudden?  How could it start and run great, and then not have anything?  Im at a total loss really.  Anyone else experience this?

Edited by Kubs
Posted

I did the same thing, your push rods are too long, once the oil pressure built up, it keeps the valves open, on my 2018 L83, it never had compression, had too measure the push rods I needed (with an adjustable pushrod tool) and get shorter ones. Hope you have a HPTuner, you'll need to "Retune"!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

So pushrods wasnt the issue.  Rotated the engine to where cyl 1 had both intake and exhaust valves closed.  Then I thought if I loosen a rocker I should see the spring move a little.  Nothing.  They are closed.

 

I got it the rest of the way apart over the weekend. The cam bolt backed out and the gear spun on the cam a little making it out of time and lacking compression. It also destroyed the pin to the point I cant get it out so Im out $400 for a brand new cam also...

A little background. I took the engine apart to replace the VVT after a P0016 code. I did a new cam gear/phaser, new bolt, tensioner, etc at that time. When I got it back together it developed a lifter tick right off the bat. I suspect it had been going out for a while and sitting with no pressure in it finally did it in.

I then took it apart again to do the DoD delete with LS7 lifters, new trays, cam, valve springs and seals. I reused the cam gear and bolt that had 2min of run time. GM says if you re-use the cam bolt the new torque spec is 47ft/lbs + 50° instead of +90°. I dont think this is tight enough apparently.

New cam, gear and bolt on order, and hopefully this is the last time I put this engine together. 😒

Edited by Kubs
Posted

Damn, that sucks you're out $400, but at least you know what the problem was. Hopefully, everything will go smoothly with the installation of the new cam.

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Posted

Reviving this.  I had to step away for multiple reasons.

 

I had the heads re-done with new valves as when the cam jumped time it bent all the intake valves.  Its back together and starts and runs, but will idle rough.  Along with the new cam I also changed to the L86 intake and TB.  It might just need a tune now.  I cant datalog though because I am relying on the AFM disabler in the OBD port to allow me to test fire until I can get it to the tuner.

Posted (edited)

Not sure if this will help but you can get splitter cables for the OBDII port to allow 2 devices to be connected. I have done this with a Range Disabler and an OBDII reader to monitor various engine functions. It has worked out very well. Not necessarily recommending this one but if you search on Amazon, there are many to choose from.

 

https://a.co/d/aLK2tUV

 

 

 

 

Edited by mikeyk101
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Truck is currently at the tuner.  The rough idle was a dead driver side O2, but we are now getting fuel trims about 15% different side to side.  Pass side is taking a lot of fuel out and cyl 4 spark plug was BLACK.  I think I have a hung up injector.  Hopefully that clears it up and I can finally drive this again.

  • Like 2
Posted

Closing the loop on this, replacing the injector allowed the truck to run well and be tuned.  It made 304hp and 333ftlbs on the rollers, with a 33" tall A/T tire and 93 octane.  Unfortunately I dont have a comparison to before all the work but it feels pretty healthy.  Very close to some 6.2L trucks I have driven.

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...