Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

So I thought I’d give the engine bay a quick wash; used spot free rinse so it wasn’t high pressure.

 

It occurred to me later that I probably shouldn’t have done that. And I noticed the little symbol on the battery and computer indicating you shouldn’t pressure wash them…

 

The truck runs, no codes, or weird electrical glitches.

 

did I just damage the computer, battery or something else by doing this??

Edited by M1ck3y
Posted

You should be good. I always run the engine to warm it up afterwards this helps get any water to evaporate. Believe it or not, engine bays are made to be water resistant (like your watch lol). Just look at the environment they live it. I wouldn't spray the fuse box but your battery is fine, in my opinion. I've been doing this for 40 years with no issues, on my trucks & bimmer cars. I always say a clean engine is a happy engine. Now I'm waiting for the flames 🔥 LOL

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, rav3 said:

You should be good. I always run the engine to warm it up afterwards this helps get any water to evaporate. Believe it or not, engine bays are made to be water resistant (like your watch lol). Just look at the environment they live it. I wouldn't spray the fuse box but your battery is fine, in my opinion. I've been doing this for 40 years with no issues, on my trucks & bimmer cars. I always say a clean engine is a happy engine. Now I'm waiting for the flames 🔥 LOL


I also washed it when the truck was at operating temp. You think I could have cracked the block?

Posted

No, you won't crack the block. Is there something I'm missing on your post? What's wrong?

Posted
37 minutes ago, rav3 said:

No, you won't crack the block. Is there something I'm missing on your post? What's wrong?


no you’re not missing anything. Just overly concerned I guess.

 

Thanks for your help!

Posted

Your good. I do this cleaning with garden hose spraying on my '17 Silverado all the time. Warm engine & cold. But always run it afterwards to dry things out.

Posted

I had an unpleasant experience spraying an engine bay once. I used to do it regularly. It was the last time I did. The check engine light came on and it started misfiring. It was on a 2001 GMC. It was fairly new. I went to a parts store and got WD-40. After a day it was back to normal. Since then if I do it it’s with a rag. 

Posted

I have cleaned engine bays for many years, spray down with a cleaner of your choice and hose off with a spray from the garden hose. Not a power rinse.

I do cold engine. Pull it out of the garage, clean and put it back.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

I had an unpleasant experience spraying an engine bay once. I used to do it regularly. It was the last time I did. The check engine light came on and it started misfiring. It was on a 2001 GMC. It was fairly new. I went to a parts store and got WD-40. After a day it was back to normal. Since then if I do it it’s with a rag. 

What ended up being the problem?

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, M1ck3y said:

What ended up being the problem?

I hit all the electrical connections, plug wires connections with WD-40 and drove to my hotel. I was out of town working. I used my trucks on pipelines it was dusty. I was at a self service wash bay using low pressure with their cleaner. Truck was running. After the engine I sprayed the truck and headed to my hotel. During the drive it started misfiring, on came the light. I stopped got WD-40 spray the connections. Next morning it was fine. It was going to work regardless. Happily she went back to normal.

  • Like 1
Posted

One of the things that came to mind after the problem of the miss fire. Was flood vehicles. A problem in Texas. You can clean the vehicle like new with exception of the creep of water into electric connections. So any kind of pressure can force water deep into those connections. Some videos I’ve watched about cleaning the engine has everything getting wrapped to keep out water. The few vehicles I cared about keeping the engine bay clean since. I used a paint brush a few shop towels and hand wipe. The rest just stay dirty. I’ve never had a service writer suggest an engine cleaning. They don’t miss when it comes to making a buck.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

One of the things that came to mind after the problem of the miss fire. Was flood vehicles. A problem in Texas. You can clean the vehicle like new with exception of the creep of water into electric connections. So any kind of pressure can force water deep into those connections. Some videos I’ve watched about cleaning the engine has everything getting wrapped to keep out water. The few vehicles I cared about keeping the engine bay clean since. I used a paint brush a few shop towels and hand wipe. The rest just stay dirty. I’ve never had a service writer suggest an engine cleaning. They don’t miss when it comes to making a buck.

Yes, a flooded vehicle is NOT the same as washing the engine bay. As I said above, they are water resistant Not waterproof. 

Washing off the Beauty Cover, Firewall, fan shroud & inside fenders usually doesn't push water into electrical connectors. However, they can create a short to ground for spark plugs & plug wires, but they will dry out & once the water is gone, so is the ground.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 minutes ago, rav3 said:

Yes, a flooded vehicle is NOT the same as washing the engine bay. As I said above, they are water resistant Not waterproof. 

Washing off the Beauty Cover, Firewall, fan shroud & inside fenders usually doesn't push water into electrical connectors. However, they can create a short to ground for spark plugs & plug wires, but they will dry out & once the water is gone, so is the ground.

I was using that as an example. My opinion such as it is. Why take the chance? Some vehicles with unique engines are one thing. Truck engines something else. I just started cleaning them by hand. Like usual I pass on examples of my experiences. That lead me to research the proper way to clean an engine. I never got burned by following the recommended vehicle maintenance procedures either. Like lifetime transmission fluid or 150K anti freeze. Now converting to the 150K plus vehicle usage more frequently doing service is a must. Having luck doing something that could be risky. Could be costly. I’ve been very lucky. I’m just a little more proactive these days. 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...