i am looking for a new new to me truck and wanted to ask for opinions on the new 10 speeds transmissions that come on the 24 up trucks

[Pryme]

15 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

The Edge or Banks units, are they compatible with the gas engine as they appear more refined in how they are made as well as rigged up with methods to mount them vs the scan gauge. 

I’m not familiar with those units since I’ve always used a scangauge since about 2010 and they have always worked for me. 
the sg3 comes with a suction mount that is a magnet which works fine but I simply put a small piece of 3m extreme two sided tape on the bottom and have it nicely sitting up on the dash. No issues and very clean. 

[Capt Bob]

8 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

If you decide to install a drain plug into your factory pan, take some photos of it and whatever information if any that you used to decide on the location to install the plug. I expect there would be certain spots or a best location to install it due to not interfering with the trans filter for example or the locations of the magnetic pads. I also presume any of these aftermarket plug install solutions will unfortunately have to stand up a distance inside the pan and takes away from allowing as much fluid to be drained out vs if one had a specialty bung welded into the pan that did not have an internal rise above the bottom interior, or bought an aftermarket pan that fit the limited clearance of the exhaust cross over on the gas trucks. 

On my 1500, I bought a second stock pan and had a “bung” welded on a bottom corner. This allowed for a very good drain. In dropping that pan (only once) I used the “ remove the exhaust hangers method” and had plenty of room to work. Not sure how well it would work on the 2500.

[Chuck FB]

10 minutes ago, Capt Bob said:

On my 1500, I bought a second stock pan and had a “bung” welded on a bottom corner. This allowed for a very good drain. In dropping that pan (only once) I used the “ remove the exhaust hangers method” and had plenty of room to work. Not sure how well it would work on the 2500.

That would be the way to do it by having a bung welded on or as was suggested on here as per buying a Dorman pan and I will admit I cringe every time I hear that brand come up but its not a very expensive pan through Rock Auto as long as one is in the states, it would cost many times that if bought in Canada ( for no logical reason ). 

 

Being that your in Florida your exhaust may not have the sort of rust that happens very quickly on a salt covered winter road and the two nuts that join the break point at the rear of the trans might undo easily. Between that and undoing the hanger on the trans you might be able to flex the Y pipe without too much stress to the header flange mount. I don't know if there is a seal or gasket of some sort at the manifolds to Y pipe, as long as it would not ruin a sealing surface perhaps the hardware could be backed off just a bit at the manifolds if need be, again as long as the hardware isn't all seized up. 

 

Your trial will prove good information as to what method will allow the pan to slip out. 

[bruceb58]

12 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

That would be the way to do it by having a bung welded on

It would have to be an aluminum bung which makes it a little more difficult. I am going to buy the Dorman pan.

Edited July 2, 2025 by bruceb58

[Chuck FB]

37 minutes ago, bruceb58 said:

It would have to be an aluminum bung which makes it a little more difficult. I am going to buy the Dorman pan.

Yes that is true as per the aluminum bung and designed for the plug style you want and if you did decide to do that lets say rather than the Dorman pan, one would have to find a shop that has skilled tig aluminum welders on staff. Definitely easier to buy a pan ahead of time and the filter and oil etc so there are no hang ups. 

 

Oil, again your able to purchase that quite reasonably cost wise through Rock Auto as one source and I know from buying oil to have on hand from the dealer here in Canada, they were kind and dropped the price from the normal dealership price when buying it by the full 12 quart case, its not an oil most other parts supply retailers carry up here I found.  

Edited July 2, 2025 by Chuck FB

[bruceb58]

20 minutes ago, Chuck FB said:

Yes that is true as per the aluminum bung and designed for the plug style you want and if you did decide to do that lets say rather than the Dorman pan, one would have to find a shop that has skilled tig aluminum welders on staff. Definitely easier to buy a pan ahead of time and the filter and oil etc so there are no hang ups. 

 

Oil, again your able to purchase that quite reasonably cost wise through Rock Auto as one source and I know from buying oil to have on hand from the dealer here in Canada, they were kind and dropped the price from the normal dealership price when buying it by the full 12 quart case, its not an oil most other parts supply retailers carry up here I found.  

I know how to TIG and have my own welder. That being said, I would probably get a new pan to put the drain plug on if I did it that way. Better to do a Dorman.

 

The other option is this pan. Not sure I like how deep it is though for ground clearance issues, although its only 2.7" deeper. https://yourcovers.com/pml-gm-allison-10-speed-10l1000-deep-transmission-pan.html

Edited July 2, 2025 by bruceb58

[Chuck FB]

4 minutes ago, bruceb58 said:

I know how to TIG and have my own welder. That being said, I would probably get a new pan to put the drain plug on if I did it that way. Better to do a Dorman.

 

The other option is this pan. Not sure I like how deep it is though for ground clearance issues, although its only 2.7" deeper. https://yourcovers.com/pml-gm-allison-10-speed-10l1000-deep-transmission-pan.html

Good on you for having the welder and the tig experience, I am severely lacking when it comes to welding and only have a stick welder at my disposal and so seldom weld ( its embarrassing to admit ) and once in a blue moon I do some brazing with ox/ac. 

 

As to that link to the pan, I don't expect that pan will fit on your gas truck and I've not looked just lately at the various companies that make higher volume aftermarket pans but it certainly had been not long ago that they were all for the Duramax because it doesn't have the cross over pipe and so it would have to be an oddball pan made for the gas truck to have a deeper sump if that was sought after. I believe the Dorman pan is a direct factory volume swap that either the diesel or gas can use and my guess is that they made it because they added the drain plug, like the factory should have done in the first place !. 

[bruceb58]

1 minute ago, Chuck FB said:

 

 

As to that link to the pan, I don't expect that pan will fit on your gas truck and I've not looked just lately at the various companies that make higher volume aftermarket pans

I spoke with them and the flat portion of the pan that is under the exhaust is actually less tight than the stock pan. It should fit easily.

[bruceb58]

Just now, bruceb58 said:

I spoke with them and the flat portion of the pan that is under the exhaust is actually less tight than the stock pan. It should fit easily.

There are measurements on the website that show how far forward the flat part extends so it should be easy to verify.

[Chuck FB]

7 minutes ago, bruceb58 said:

I spoke with them and the flat portion of the pan that is under the exhaust is actually less tight than the stock pan. It should fit easily.

That's interesting, odd why they only list it for a duramax on the main page if it might have the ability to fit onto the gas version. I know some of these companies that make pans specifically say does not fit the gas truck with the 10L1000 

 

Just now I looked at their application list and they word it rather strangely but you are right that they elude to it fitting on a gas truck that has the 10L1000. Hmm, have them confirm it and send you one and if it does not fit that they take it back on their dime. 

Edited July 2, 2025 by Chuck FB

[bruceb58]

11 hours ago, Chuck FB said:

That's interesting, odd why they only list it for a duramax on the main page if it might have the ability to fit onto the gas version. I know some of these companies that make pans specifically say does not fit the gas truck with the 10L1000 

 

Just now I looked at their application list and they word it rather strangely but you are right that they elude to it fitting on a gas truck that has the 10L1000. Hmm, have them confirm it and send you one and if it does not fit that they take it back on their dime. 

I will use the measurements to determine that before I buy it. I still might just get the Dorman though.

[Chuck FB]

10 minutes ago, bruceb58 said:

I will use the measurements to determine that before I buy it. I still might just get the Dorman though.

I had not looked at the price until after my comments, certainly pricey in USD, never mind what horrific price would be attached to something like that up here as the Dorman pan is stupid expensive up here for no good reason. 

 

While more oil is usually better, I do wonder how much of a difference a bit of oil would make to the trans temp. 

[jake111]

After being on vacation for a week, I quickly read through the posts.  Can't say I understood everything but in case anyone was interested, here are a few Scangauge x-gauge settings I used on my 24 6.6 gas / 10-speed, 2600 lb. truck camper in bed, using a Scangauge II:

 

Description   TXD        RXF          RXD  MTH          NAME
Engine Oil
 Temp (°F)    33F122301C C4620530361C 3008 00090005FFD8 EOT
Engine Oil
 Press. (PSI) 33F122A22C C46285A2362C 3008 001D00050000 EOP
Trans. Fluid
 Temp (°F)    33F1227004 C46205703604 3008 00090005FFD8 TFT
Trans. Gear   33F1227053 C46205703653 3008 000100010000 TGR (or GER)

 

On a trip this week that included hot climbs (e.g., 100*F, 58 east of Bakersfield):

(1) Engine oil temp was well-behaved, briefly hit 221*F a few times.

(2) Engine oil pressure same as on gauge although gauge not as detailed.  I stopped monitoring this on the Scangauge.

(3) Trans temp hit 204*F just one time in the desert, and not on the hottest climb!

(4) I like knowing what gear it's in!

 

I really wanted a Scangauge to watch the engine temps since the dash gauge sits in one position over quite a range.  I had a 2004.5 LLY which was always pushing temp limits so I'm a little sensitive to engine heat.  Totally under control on this new truck!!  Goes up to 206*F and something happens (fan?) and it cools right down into the 190's*F . . . even on big hot climbs.  I like this truck!!

[Chuck FB]

16 minutes ago, jake111 said:

After being on vacation for a week, I quickly read through the posts.  Can't say I understood everything but in case anyone was interested, here are a few Scangauge x-gauge settings I used on my 24 6.6 gas / 10-speed, 2600 lb. truck camper in bed, using a Scangauge II:

 

Description   TXD        RXF          RXD  MTH          NAME
Engine Oil
 Temp (°F)    33F122301C C4620530361C 3008 00090005FFD8 EOT
Engine Oil
 Press. (PSI) 33F122A22C C46285A2362C 3008 001D00050000 EOP
Trans. Fluid
 Temp (°F)    33F1227004 C46205703604 3008 00090005FFD8 TFT
Trans. Gear   33F1227053 C46205703653 3008 000100010000 TGR (or GER)

 

On a trip this week that included hot climbs (e.g., 100*F, 58 east of Bakersfield):

(1) Engine oil temp was well-behaved, briefly hit 221*F a few times.

(2) Engine oil pressure same as on gauge although gauge not as detailed.  I stopped monitoring this on the Scangauge.

(3) Trans temp hit 204*F just one time in the desert, and not on the hottest climb!

(4) I like knowing what gear it's in!

 

I really wanted a Scangauge to watch the engine temps since the dash gauge sits in one position over quite a range.  I had a 2004.5 LLY which was always pushing temp limits so I'm a little sensitive to engine heat.  Totally under control on this new truck!!  Goes up to 206*F and something happens (fan?) and it cools right down into the 190's*F . . . even on big hot climbs.  I like this truck!!

Were you running the air conditioning on the climbs ?. As to the temp ( being that you can actually see the coolant temp the the monitor ) dropping like that, could you detect the sound of the fan howling. I assume if the engine rpm is up a ways that the fan would sound off or at least that has traditionally been the case with fans when they are forced to drive at a much faster speed then they normally do when the clutch is not locked up on it. I am guessing that the engine oil and trans temp dropped some as well when you noted the coolant temp was notably falling ?

 

So now you just have to head to Death Valley this summer the moment you hear they might have a heat wave like I was told happened the week before I drove through there years back and was 118 when I was there but they had hit 129 the week before ... then drive out of the valley on the long climb in the heat of that hot day with the air con running, now that would be one killer of a test !. 

[jake111]

A/C on full blast.  On my old LLY the fan ROARED.  While my hearing kinda sucks, I can't hear or feel this fan . . . I'm assuming it's the fan that causes the engine temp to drop so dramatically.  Engine oil and transmission temps are much slower to respond so, no, they didn't drop directly.  But they also stayed in very normal ranges.  Again, I am impressed!