Super Tech oil filters

[Grumpy Bear]

28 minutes ago, Homer1959 said:

If the filtered particles are smaller than the clearance inside the engine, why bother removing them? Im not buying into the micron race , I believe in preserving the flow rather than filtering out harmless particles... but hey, what do I know, lol. 

 

A fair point but are you considering all the clearances in the motor or just bearings? Ring face to bore face is 3 to 5 micron and the bore is the first place a well built and maintained motor wears out.  Cam lobe to rocker/lifter interface is even tighter.

 

There seems to be an idea that if it goes 100K without issues that whatever took it far will take it  ten times that far. Lets go back to the GM wear study. Note that that chart has a formula that I tagged reference to. Let see how that works.

 

A 30 micron filter has a relative engine life value of 4. A 20 micron filter a value of about 5.2. 5.2/4= a factor of 1.3.

 

Let say you get 200K routinely with a 30 micron filter before bore wear gets intolerable. 200K * 1.3 = 260K to the same point of wear. So the question is, how much is 60K extra trouble free miles worth to you? 

 

Now lets say you also use a 2 micron bypass filter.  You can't stop a mechanical device from wearing out but you can slow it's wear rate to a snails pace. Bearings are fine with 30 micron filters. Rings and cam lobes, not so much. Oh it will go a long distance but it will go further with finer filtration by a significant amount. 30% is not a sneeze. 

[KARNUT]

23 minutes ago, Atlas said:

 

The Amsoil followers will be along shortly with torches and pitchforks 

Im really bad about changing my lawnmower oil. I keep them about 10 years. My brother has all of them and they all still run. I usually change the oil one time. I mow three acres usually once a week they get used. I only mow wet lawn no dust. That’s pretty extreme. In 30 plus years no engine failure in a lawn mower. Car engines are sealed really tight. The air filtration is really good. So how tight does the filtration need to be? My concern would be that the filter doesn’t fall apart because it’s cheaply made rather than how fine the filtration. If I buy a filter and oil that can go 10-15-20K miles. It’s going to last my 5K miles. If an engine is getting internally contaminated the filtration is the least of your problems. 

[Homer1959]

31 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

A fair point but are you considering all the clearances in the motor or just bearings? Ring face to bore face is 3 to 5 micron and the bore is the first place a well built and maintained motor wears out.  Cam lobe to rocker/lifter interface is even tighter.

 

There seems to be an idea that if it goes 100K without issues that whatever took it far will take it  ten times that far. Lets go back to the GM wear study. Note that that chart has a formula that I tagged reference to. Let see how that works.

 

A 30 micron filter has a relative engine life value of 4. A 20 micron filter a value of about 5.2. 5.2/4= a factor of 1.3.

 

Let say you get 200K routinely with a 30 micron filter before bore wear gets intolerable. 200K * 1.3 = 260K to the same point of wear. So the question is, how much is 60K extra trouble free miles worth to you? 

 

Now lets say you also use a 2 micron bypass filter.  You can't stop a mechanical device from wearing out but you can slow it's wear rate to a snails pace. Bearings are fine with 30 micron filters. Rings and cam lobes, not so much. Oh it will go a long distance but it will go further with finer filtration by a significant amount. 30% is not a sneeze. 

I was focusing more on bearing wear caused by particles than bores, and you made a good point. However, don't you think bores are more affected by fuel dilution, poor fuel, and pre-ignition than particles? Personally, I believe air filtering is more important than oil filtering to some extent. I know both are necessary, but if I had to choose only one, I would go with air.Also, is there a way to know what to expect inside a filter after, say, 5000 miles on average? Any study ?  I feel like we might be overthinking all of this. It's fun, but for the average Joe, there are probably many other things to focus on before worrying about particles, lol.

Edited October 9, 2025 by Homer1959

[Atlas]

42 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

There seems to be an idea that if it goes 100K without issues that whatever took it far will take it  ten times that far. Lets go back to the GM wear study. Note that that chart has a formula that I tagged reference to. Let see how that works.

 

Maybe that's an assumption made by some, but not made by me.

 

I've seen plenty of engines go 250k, 300k no problem with "cheap" maintenance. Not that I'm advocating for as cheap as possible. Maybe the engine won't last 1,000,000 miles on "good enough". For most vehicles, the rest of the vehicle has fallen apart around the engine by that mileage, or, boredom hits and it's just time to replace it.

 

I might be slightly more concerned if I planned to keep an engine for 1,000,000 miles. But that's not my goal. There's no prize at the end; just an old vehicle.

[OnTheReel]

1 hour ago, Homer1959 said:

If the filtered particles are smaller than the clearance inside the engine, why bother removing them? Im not buying into the micron race , I believe in preserving the flow rather than filtering out harmless particles... but hey, what do I know, lol. 

It’s a common misconception that flow and filtration efficiency are inversely connected. For example…in testing, the filter that SuperTech turd is based on (Fram orange can) showed the highest pressure differential (dP) across the filter while also being one of the

least efficient. 99%+ @ 20 filters with synthetic media such as the Fram Ultra and Amsoil EA outflow it by quite a bit, not to mention do the whole job of filtering oil much better!

 

Either way, flow is more or less a moot point given the usage of PD oil pumps…what goes in MUST come out. At least until the pump hits relief or the filter bypasses. Both of which should be very rare occurrences in well designed systems and filters.

Also note that even if a filter is in bypass (most likely during a COLD start), flow isn’t compromised and some oil is still being filtered, just not all of it.

[KARNUT]

8 minutes ago, Atlas said:

 

Maybe that's an assumption made by some, but not made by me.

 

I've seen plenty of engines go 250k, 300k no problem with "cheap" maintenance. Not that I'm advocating for as cheap as possible. Maybe the engine won't last 1,000,000 miles on "good enough". For most vehicles, the rest of the vehicle has fallen apart around the engine by that mileage, or, boredom hits and it's just time to replace it.

 

I might be slightly more concerned if I planned to keep an engine for 1,000,000 miles. But that's not my goal. There's no prize at the end; just an old vehicle.

When you figure mileage driving plus age of the vehicle. Age is more detrimental than mileage. Things weather and fall apart. Computers wear out. I’ve seen more problems with a bad connection than poor maintenance habits. I had a vehicle go into limp mode without triggering a light. In my collector car days I spent more time on wear other than drive line. Most people don’t drive their vehicles into dis repair. Environment takes the toll. My older vehicles run like new. I’m fixing head liners. Weather stripping, interior parts neutral safety switches, rubber brake lines. Stuff I can do. Joe average isn’t going to deal with that. The average 10-15K miles a year driver doesn’t want to drive a 15-20 year old car. Just reasonable maintenance will get you there. So you’re right life’s too short. 

[OnTheReel]

We’re only talking about spending an extra $10/yr on better filters than the SuperTech and getting much longer engine life in return. While doing literally nothing else differently. I know people will argue about anything online but for the cost difference, a better filter is as close to a no-brainer as maintenance can ever get. Common sense.

[Atlas]

Point taken, however,

 

Amsoil apparently doesn't make a filter for a 2025 w/ 3.0 duramax. But they'll sell me a Wix for $9.97 plus shipping off their website.

 

The Mobil 1 Extended performance filter for the 3.0 claims 99% at 30 microns. Regular price at Advance Auto is $14.99. They sell the ACD PF66 for $11.29, which is outrageous. They're currently $4.78 on Rockauto.

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, Homer1959 said:

I was focusing more on bearing wear caused by particles than bores, and you made a good point. However, don't you think bores are more affected by fuel dilution, poor fuel, and pre-ignition than particles? Personally, I believe air filtering is more important than oil filtering to some extent. I know both are necessary, but if I had to choose only one, I would go with air.Also, is there a way to know what to expect inside a filter after, say, 5000 miles on average? Any study ?  I feel like we might be overthinking all of this. It's fun, but for the average Joe, there are probably many other things to focus on before worrying about particles, lol.

 

I think penny's make dollars and yes the air filter is very important as is dilution. But it is a concert, not a single note that makes that motor sing. And yes, air filtration has a larger impact than oil filtration. But air isn't the only source of particulate matter in your oil. Amalgamation of oxidation products key. Carbon, soot and yea, GDI creates allot of soot. Diesel levels sometimes. 

 

My opinion is that it is a mistake to isolate a single element of wear as unimportant or to prioritize them by cost. 

 

Bore/rings are bearings. Linear bearings with tight clearance that run under the worse circumstances than the rods, mains and cam bearings, as you noted. Your oil pump is a vane pump with micron sized face clearance. 

 

All that said, it is your money and your equipment. I gave the opinion I was asked for but I'm not the oil police You don't need my permission and I wont' judge your decision. No hook...

 

 

[Homer1959]

18 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

I think penny's make dollars and yes the air filter is very important as is dilution. But it is a concert, not a single note that makes that motor sing. And yes, air filtration has a larger impact than oil filtration. But air isn't the only source of particulate matter in your oil. Amalgamation of oxidation products key. Carbon, soot and yea, GDI creates allot of soot. Diesel levels sometimes. 

 

My opinion is that it is a mistake to isolate a single element of wear as unimportant or to prioritize them by cost. 

 

Bore/rings are bearings. Linear bearings with tight clearance that run under the worse circumstances than the rods, mains and cam bearings, as you noted. Your oil pump is a vane pump with micron sized face clearance. 

 

All that said, it is your money and your equipment. I gave the opinion I was asked for but I'm not the oil police You don't need my permission and I wont' judge your decision. No hook...

 

 

I was looking for your opinion, and others opinion, i am always willing to learn through different expertise, opinion , or else , as long as we keep doing it respectfully , and thats what i found here, thanks to all

[txab]

1 hour ago, Atlas said:

Point taken, however,

 

Amsoil apparently doesn't make a filter for a 2025 w/ 3.0 duramax. But they'll sell me a Wix for $9.97 plus shipping off their website.

 

The Mobil 1 Extended performance filter for the 3.0 claims 99% at 30 microns. Regular price at Advance Auto is $14.99. They sell the ACD PF66 for $11.29, which is outrageous. They're currently $4.78 on Rockauto.

Advance Auto is a terrible place to purchase consumables, until they are on sale. 

 

ETA: Often they do 50% off on many filters or offer combo deal purchases of oil and filter that can be reasonable

 

I can't afford to buy anything not on sale at AA. Even their hard parts are too high, compared to NAPA for one example

Edited October 9, 2025 by txab

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

It’s a common misconception that flow and filtration efficiency are inversely connected.

 

True! Filter area is also in play on differential pressure. You could filter with a 2 micron full flow absolute system IF there were enough filter media area, but it would be a huge filter or multiple filters. Since that is somewhat impractical those systems are employed in bypass filtering of something like 10% of the pump volume. But on the money. Fine filtration doesn't have to be sacrificed but is often. Especially in cheap filters that count every square inch of media and every gram of metal in ROI calculations. 

 

Supertech sacrifices both for margin. They are not alone. 

 

People that do this for a living weight both filter efficiency and grams of debris held to a specific pressure drop to give an overall rating for the filter. They don't often share with mortals. 

[Atlas]

So, guys, safe assumption that middle-of-the-road filters like AcDelco won't give an engine a good chance to hit an average lifespan? Is that the consensus?

 

BTW, I don't even have an Advance Auto here but it is the first search result that popped up.

 

Most of my consumables come from a local Napa with actual people who know automotive things that work the counters, or if I need something like carwash soap or brake fluid, the Autozone here is good. Napa will rob you blind, but they're worth it when you have real questions.

[Homer1959]

12 minutes ago, Atlas said:

So, guys, safe assumption that middle-of-the-road filters like AcDelco won't give an engine a good chance to hit an average lifespan? Is that the consensus?

 

BTW, I don't even have an Advance Auto here but it is the first search result that popped up.

 

Most of my consumables come from a local Napa with actual people who know automotive things that work the counters, or if I need something like carwash soap or brake fluid, the Autozone here is good. Napa will rob you blind, but they're worth it when you have real questions.

In my opinion, go with AC Delco if you want, not because they’re the best, but because they offer good value for the money and are easy to find. These days, it’s harder than ever to say if an engine will outlast the vehicle, but I’m pretty sure very few people drive their cars to the grave, so 20/30 micron differences aren’t all that important in my view. Now, if that keeps you up at night, that’s a different story I honestly think people pay way too much attention to what they feed their cars compared to how they treat themselves

[Grumpy Bear]

3 hours ago, Atlas said:

So, guys, safe assumption that middle-of-the-road filters like AcDelco won't give an engine a good chance to hit an average lifespan? Is that the consensus?

 

BTW, I don't even have an Advance Auto here but it is the first search result that popped up.

 

Most of my consumables come from a local Napa with actual people who know automotive things that work the counters, or if I need something like carwash soap or brake fluid, the Autozone here is good. Napa will rob you blind, but they're worth it when you have real questions.

 

I opine that the AC-Delco filter sets the benchmark for 'average lifespan'. It is, Afterall, the GM touchstone. Legal "Lifetime" of a power train is 150K. If you believe that is 'average'; that Delco will get you there. Likely take it a bit further if all ducks are in a row.