Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Figured I would share a mod I did recently, I installed a set of Boost Auto S-Series cab clearance lights on my 2024 Silverado 2500HD. These are an OEM fit and finish cab clearance light that adds to the menacing look of an HD truck. The kit gives you everything you need to install the cab lights on your truck, including wiring. Something unique about the Boost Auto cab lights is they have been engineered to be installed thru a round hole instead of the square hole like the OEM lights and other manufacturers. This makes installation way easier because a round step bit can be used to drill out the holes, otherwise if installing OEM lights, the holes need to be cut with a dremel to be square. Instead of using the Boost Auto wiring kit, I opted to use the OEM GM cab light harness because I had the pre-wired connector in my driver side A-pillar. If opting for turn signals in the cab lights, you'll need to follow the Boost Auto wiring procedure to wire those up to get the extra function of signals blinking. Here is my install video for anyone interested.  

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

 

4 hours ago, Crazy Canuck said:

Out of curiosity, why would you want to have a turn signal function in your marker lights?

To signal the helicopter following you that you are turning.

  • Like 1
Posted
7 hours ago, Crazy Canuck said:

Out of curiosity, why would you want to have a turn signal function in your marker lights?

 

Boost Auto sells a lot of products that have integrated turn signals. So theoretically someone could have a bunch of boost auto stuff and all would light up in sync. cab lights, mirror lights, running boards, and now even door handles. Just personal preference really. 

 

5 hours ago, johnnyquick said:

Look GREAT boost auto parts are excellent products, the ONLY thing that I would suggest is to test fire them BEFORE reinstalling headliner etc.

Just in case.

Thanks for posting

 

Yes! good thought, I actually said that to myself as I was putting in the last few screws in the headliner...luckily everything worked great on startup though. It's really easy when tying in with the OEM harness to the connector in the A-pillar. Thanks for watching. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I wouldn't on purpose add more holes in my roof. 

Posted
20 hours ago, Pryme said:

Looks nice. I personally couldn’t drill holes in my roof. 

 

Thanks. Not for the faint of heart, that's for sure. 

 

10 hours ago, bruceb58 said:

I wouldn't on purpose add more holes in my roof. 

 

So far so good, no leaks. The gaskets are nice and wide and sealed nicely to the roof. I'm not worried.

Posted
10 hours ago, bruceb58 said:

I wouldn't on purpose add more holes in my roof. 

I have owned rigs that were from the 50's (Farm trucks) clear on up to modern day pickups and duallys and have NEVER had a leak, I agree it takes balls to drill on these $70-$100k pickups but I doubt any issues would occur unless one were careless.

Posted
6 hours ago, johnnyquick said:

I have owned rigs that were from the 50's (Farm trucks) clear on up to modern day pickups and duallys and have NEVER had a leak, I agree it takes balls to drill on these $70-$100k pickups but I doubt any issues would occur unless one were careless.

You’re lucky. Tons of posts on this forum of leaking trucks. Same over on the ford forums. All from roof lights and sliding rear windows. 

Posted

Here's a couple still frame shots of the truck all lit up. You can see all the other Boost Auto stuff I have on the truck. Mirror lights, and M1 light up running boards. I also have the Boost Auto heated mirror/signal glass installed. 

 

FrontShot.thumb.png.ada40437e69f9fd626e4c96bb7dc33d0.png

 

SideShot.thumb.JPG.3f9c9854d45e941cf07029ff1d3a1d13.JPG

Posted
On 10/16/2025 at 12:04 PM, fondupot said:

Here's a couple still frame shots of the truck all lit up. You can see all the other Boost Auto stuff I have on the truck. Mirror lights, and M1 light up running boards. I also have the Boost Auto heated mirror/signal glass installed. 

 

FrontShot.thumb.png.ada40437e69f9fd626e4c96bb7dc33d0.png

 

SideShot.thumb.JPG.3f9c9854d45e941cf07029ff1d3a1d13.JPG

Nice! Looks great!

  • Thanks 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/2/2025 at 9:14 AM, JW2024 said:

Did you do the mirror lights too? If so, are they the smoked lens version?

 

Yea, they're boost auto mirror lights and I also have Boost Auto mirror glass. I don't think mine were the smoked ones. Just clear with amber sequential signal and running light

 

 

Posted
49 minutes ago, fondupot said:

 

Yea, they're boost auto mirror lights and I also have Boost Auto mirror glass. I don't think mine were the smoked ones. Just clear with amber sequential signal and running light

 

 

Thank you. I put the smoked sidemarker lights from Diode Dynamics in and wanted to do the smoked mirror lights as well. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...