Jump to content

fuel filter locaton


Recommended Posts

Posted

does anyone know if the 04 silverados had a fuel filter ? i checked pevious posts and it wasnt clear. the owners mauel says there should be on there. plus the dealers says there is one there.

Posted

its inside the gas tank. Supposedly a lifetime filter

Posted
does anyone know if the 04 silverados had a fuel filter ? i checked pevious posts and it wasnt clear. the owners mauel says there should be on there. plus the dealers says there is one there.

 

 

 

 

Should be on the driver side frame rail between the tank and engine compartment. Trace the fuel lines it isn't hard to find.This'l help

Posted

yah i traced the fuel lines and didnt see it . the dealer keeps telling me it external and the owners mauel gives me a filter # so why would they waste the time to put it in there then?

Posted

If it's in the tank, I think that's a pretty dumb idea for GM. It would have to be one big-a$$ filter to be effective for the lifetime of the vehicle. Just my $0.02. I have an '03 and it's on the driver's side frame rail.

Posted

No external filter on the '04's. Mine don't have one. Just one more dumb thing GM did :flag::flag::crazy:

Posted
no they actualyy say to replace the filter. could i add a filter inline then?

 

 

 

Sure, you can add an inline filter easily, but you still have the one in the tank that could get clogged, unless they invented a no clog filter.

Posted

The previous trucks & car GM built used a return line and fuel was being pumped or circulated through the system but the new system only pumps fuel to the injectors and does not require as large a filter since its not recirculated.

The reason they changed is that the recirculated fuel got real hot and cool fuel makes more power. By the time you need a new filter well beyond 100000 miles the fuel pump will need replaceing.;)

As for the fuel filter noted in the owners manual GM has 4 engine groups, V6/4.8-6.0/8.0 & diesel some of which still require a filter until their systems are updated.

 

--------------------

04 Silverado EXT cab 4x4 LT Silver

Posted
The previous trucks & car GM built used a return line and fuel was being pumped or circulated through the system but the new system only pumps fuel to the injectors and does not require as large a filter since its not recirculated.

The reason they changed is that the recirculated fuel got real hot and cool fuel makes more power. By the time you need a new filter well beyond 100000 miles the fuel pump will need replaceing.;)

As for the fuel filter noted in the owners manual GM has  4 engine groups, V6/4.8-6.0/8.0 & diesel some of which still require a filter until their systems are updated.

 

--------------------

04 Silverado EXT cab 4x4 LT Silver

 

 

 

What do you mean by "recirculated"?

Posted
The previous trucks & car GM built used a return line and fuel was being pumped or circulated through the system but the new system only pumps fuel to the injectors and does not require as large a filter since its not recirculated.

The reason they changed is that the recirculated fuel got real hot and cool fuel makes more power. By the time you need a new filter well beyond 100000 miles the fuel pump will need replaceing.;)

As for the fuel filter noted in the owners manual GM has  4 engine groups, V6/4.8-6.0/8.0 & diesel some of which still require a filter until their systems are updated.

 

--------------------

04 Silverado EXT cab 4x4 LT Silver

 

What do you mean by "recirculated"?

The old system pumped the fuel from the tank through the filter, fuel rail,regulator and returned to the tank constantly when engine was running causing the fuel to heat up.

Returnless system uses a better sock filter and pumps up to pressure and keeps fuel at a constant pressure . A pressure sensor at the engine sends info to the PCM and the PCM changes pulse width of the injectors to regulate fuel pressure to the injectors. Not recirculating the fuel keeps the fuel cooler (more power) and fuel pumps last longer since they are not running trash through the pump all the time.

I expect the new system to last 200000 mi with clean fuel.

BTW if you have a 5.3L engine you will notice there isnt any PVC valve on the engine anymore its a fixed orfice now. :thumbs:

Posted

So the non return system is that accurate that no excess fuel is pumped? I wonder if any other manufacturers are using it.

Posted
So the non return system is that accurate that no excess fuel is pumped? I wonder if any other manufacturers are using it.

 

 

 

 

Their are plenty using this type of system. I dont have info on other brands but dont be surprised Chrysler,Ford and probably everyone else will soon. It isnt a new idea but its the technology of the PCM being able to control the whole system and make it work correctly and be reliable. :thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...