Jump to content

bugshield noise


Recommended Posts

Posted

After previous experience with my 99 Silverado as well as researching these boards it seems to be fairly common for trucks with a bugshield to have the popping noise around the windshield when at highway speed. I am thinking about installing a shield on my 04, but am hesitant to do so for this reason. I know there's a fairly easy fix by fastening down the moulding around the windshield with tape or adhesive. So, yesterday I looked at my 04, which I bought new this past fall, and found that the moulding seems to be different than what I remember. It already seems to be fastened to the windshield My question is, has the General changed the type of moulding around the windshield from previous NBS trucks in recent months? Again, maybe I just remembering wrong, but this moulding looks different that what I saw on my 99 or 01. Guess I'm just hoping that if I decide to do the bugshield (can't decide if I like the look on the 03+ trucks) that I won't have to do a mod for peace and quiet at highway speeds. Thanks in advance for any info.

 

vroten :crackup:

Posted
After previous experience with my 99 Silverado as well as researching these boards it seems to be fairly common for trucks with a bugshield to have the popping noise around the windshield when at highway speed.  I am thinking about installing a shield on my 04, but am hesitant to do so for this reason.  I know there's a fairly easy fix by fastening down the moulding around the windshield with tape or adhesive.  So, yesterday I looked at my 04, which I bought new this past fall, and found that the moulding seems to be different than what I remember.  It already seems to be fastened to the windshield  My question is, has the General changed the type of moulding around the windshield from previous NBS trucks in recent months?  Again, maybe I just remembering wrong, but this moulding looks different that what I saw on my 99 or 01.  Guess I'm just hoping that if I decide to do the bugshield (can't decide if I like the look on the 03+ trucks) that I won't have to do a mod for peace and quiet at highway speeds.  Thanks in advance for any info.

 

vroten :crackup:

 

 

 

 

I currently have a 04 and had to make the mod on it and the same on my past trucks 2001-03 with the Lund deflector. They may have changed the moulding seal but its still a problem. :crackup:

  • 1 year later...
Posted
After previous experience with my 99 Silverado as well as researching these boards it seems to be fairly common for trucks with a bugshield to have the popping noise around the windshield when at highway speed.  I am thinking about installing a shield on my 04, but am hesitant to do so for this reason.  I know there's a fairly easy fix by fastening down the moulding around the windshield with tape or adhesive.  So, yesterday I looked at my 04, which I bought new this past fall, and found that the moulding seems to be different than what I remember.  It already seems to be fastened to the windshield  My question is, has the General changed the type of moulding around the windshield from previous NBS trucks in recent months?  Again, maybe I just remembering wrong, but this moulding looks different that what I saw on my 99 or 01.  Guess I'm just hoping that if I decide to do the bugshield (can't decide if I like the look on the 03+ trucks) that I won't have to do a mod for peace and quiet at highway speeds.  Thanks in advance for any info.

 

vroten :jester:

 

 

 

 

I just purchased an 05 Silverado in Dec. didn't notice the rattling in the drivers side windshield when first got it. installed a deflector and started getting that annoying rattle at 60mph or greater. took it to the dealer and he said it was the deflector and GM has a technical service bulletin for it. I'll just shim it with something.

Posted

I have had a 2000, 01,03 &04 and on all of them i had to glue the seal down on the sides. I used the 3M clear moulding adhesive.

Posted

I had the same problem after I installed the bug guard. I would get this "tap tap tap" at highway speeds. I went down to Walmart and got some clear silicone adheasive caulk. I pulled the molding up just a bit and inserted the pointy applicater and squeezed some in the full lenth of the moulding. Don't pull the molding out but just up enough to get under it. I wiped off the excess and BINGO! No more tapping at highway speeds. It took all of 5 minutes and a cost of $ 3.79. Trust me it works like a charm and you dont have to hassle yourself with a trip to the dealer who is just going to do the same thing.

Posted

They enclose a roll of double sided 3M moulding tape for that reason with new bug deflectors. Page two of instructions tells you to tape down the windshield moulding. I had no idea what this meant until somebody on this board explained it to me (the salesman who sold me the deflector was clueless). My gripe is that the deflector itself does not seem to fit my '06 hood contour correctly.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 284 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...