Oil change and fuel filter

[RyanbabZ71]

Well i am past 27K miles.  Decided to change my oil and fuel filter on my day off.  Didnt get any oil on the skid plate or anywhere else.  All went into the pan.  

 

The fuel filter change was interesting.  Loosened the nuts pulled the tubing out of the filter heard a PSSSTTT then got sprayed with gasoline.  Not something i recommend.  It was kinda a PITA didnt take long at all but it was messy.  Then when i went to start the truck it wouldnt start.  I didnt pressurize the system.  Recommendation turn the key to run for a few seconds before starting.

[gmonkey]

OUCH!!

 

Did it get on your 'pits?  That hurts like a mother!!  

 

There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail that resembles a valve stem on the tire, you can wrap it with a rag and press the valve with the tip of a small screwdriver or else pull out the fuel pump fuse and crank for a few seconds to depressurize the system.

[MarkD]

I just let mine sit for a few hours before doing the change.  Then covered the filter with a rag and pulled one end loose with a bucket under it.  I had very little spray.

 

I am sure this helps a lot now though. :lookaround:

[Big Bert]

What kind of fuel filter did you use?? Is there one brand better then the others ???

[RyanbabZ71]

AC Delco GF481

 

It used to be GF626 but ac delco discontinued them

[Tweeter400]

How often are you supposed to change the fuel filter?

I know what the manual states, but in the real world how often are you guys finding a need to replace it??

[RyanbabZ71]

suggested is 30K miles

 

I am at 27K.  My next change will probably be at 50 or 60K

[ClipperSkipper]

Gf-481 is the correct number. Jeez be carefull changing

these filters since there is pressure up to the fuel rail.

Loosening the fuel cap will help relieve pressure.

 

Have a great one!

[RyanbabZ71]

Loosening the fuel cap will help relieve pressure.

 

It doesnt relieve it much cause i did undo the fuel cap.

[GREGGO]

Next time, pull the fuel pump fuse and run it out of gas. No mess, no pressure. That's the way I do it.

[THE BIGPUNN]

i do the same as 4.8. find the fuel pump fuse and start the truck, soon it will run out of gas. then i undo the gas cap.

[GreenRado]

Yep, worked great for me today - pulled the fuel pump relay, and actually she woudln't start then, so I cranked it a couple more times (short duration each).  The only fuel that got out was what was in the filter itself, and I had a rag or 2 to soak it up.  Afterwards, cycled the ignition key to on, then off 3 times, then she started right up.

 

While I was at it, changed the blue Smurf transfer case fluid - exactly 2 qts.  The best part is that it did cure the bump-smack noise on take-off!!!      Cost me $8.53 per qt. @ local Chebby dealer.

 

Decided why stop there, so I also changed out the rear diff fluid - used 2 qts Mobil1 75W-90.  Really got motivated, so I washed and waxed the ole girl as well.  Man, I'm worn out!!!  

[99silveradoz71]

Green, on the t-case change, you just drain with that plug, then close her up and use the fill plug?  Same with the rear end or did you open her up?  Contemplating these services in the future and not sure what to tackle due to my minimal mechanical ability.  Thanks, Bill

[TxDoc]

I had the key on and the radio and the door open and got a surprise when removing the fuel filter, too. Mainly, just embarrassed.

[GreenRado]

Bill, here's the detail - hope it doesn't make you snooze too much!!  :sleeping:

 

I'm assuming you have the new model 99, rather than the previous C/K, which was also built as a '99.

 

T-case:  Used an 18 mm socket; both filler and drain are the same size and thread.  Be careful, they are magnesium or aluminum, so are pretty easily rounded off, especially if they have not been removed for a couple of years (I had a problem getting mine loose as the previous TSB work, some tech must have used a torque wrench - that's another story though).  If you get the fluid from GM, it's P/N: 12378508 (autotrak II).  Your owners manual will indicate a different P/N, which is the old, pre-TSB (last 3 digits different) fluid.  Check w/ your service dept if your truck is not a 1/2 ton 4x4 to be sure you're getting the right fluid (parts can probably answer this also).

 

Use a little rust penetrant (like liquid wrench first - this goes for the diffs also).  Once you get the plugs out, it's just let it drain fully, then refill.  I replaced one battered plug w/ a new one from GM (cost ~$7 ea), and it was doped - the service guy said all the new ones are.  From there, I used a little pump kit, that handily attaches w/ threads to the bottle, and "pumped" in the full 2 qts, until it was running out the filler, then tightened down the plug.  Don't tighten w/ an impact wrench, just the same socket until it's pretty tight, but don't put a lot of "weight" into it.

 

For the rear diff, both the filler and drain plugs are turned w/ the end of a 3/8" ratchet.  They may be pretty hard to break lose, so use liquid wrench first and wait a while; also clean out any crud in there so the ratchet end will fit in fully.  Same routine, drain fully, fill to within 1" of the filler opening.  It came to 2 qts for me - 3.73 non-locker - you want to check your manual and/or local service dept to be sure you're using the correct fluid/additives (locker) and capacities in case yours is different - mine called for 75W-90 - I used Mobil1 synthetic (expensive too and really "stinky" ) .  

 

I think it was Mountaineer Tom who posted a great way to check if you're close to full as it's hard to get a finger in there and bent down - use the short end of a hex wrench that is ~ 1" long on the inside.  Worked great!!  If I was planning to keep mine, (leaser) I might have pulled the back off the diff and cleaned everything, but I didn't - I know some members have posted how to do this.

 

Well, that's all the boring details - hope this wasn't written too remedial!!  It's not too bad, but as always, if you're not sure, ask for help before jumping in - that's what I do anyway.

 

Good luck!    

 

Daryl

 

Tx:  been there too (radiator cap on my '74 Javelin) - Geez I hate those surprises!!!

 

Bill:  Update, I think I would nix the teflon tape dope on the threads - seems it is safer, from a contamination point, to get a new plug or don't dope it at all.