Jump to content

Auto Climate Control Question (v2.0)

fbachman

Recommended Posts

fbachman Senior Enthusiast

fbachman

Posted
Posted

It was around freezing a few mornings ago. Hit the "Auto" button, and the snow flake lights up as well, Temp set to about 73F. Interior was probably high 30s at that moment.

 

Am I correct to assume that the compressor is ALWAYS running when the snowflake is lit, or does the Auto Climate Control turn the compressor off as needed when cold?

 

I admit that in the cold I turn the snow flake button OFF with AUTO on, as I am trying to heat the car.

 

I understand why the compressor must work for defrost, but it seems bizarre to me that with all the gee-whiz gadgetry of the Auto Climate Control that it would always run the compressor, even in winter.

 

I asked my local GMC service shop, and they believe that a lit snow flake = Compressor Running. The manual wasn't terribly clear about all of this.

 

The service guy was honest in-so-far that he said "I'm not positive, but I think the snow flake means the compressor is running" ....

 

Enquiring minds want to know.

fbachman Senior Enthusiast

fbachman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What's a compressor lol.

 

It's that thingy under the hood that makes the air cold in your AC... :lol:

gave20 Senior Enthusiast

gave20

Posted
Posted

Yes, it should automatically turn off when the outside temperature is ~40 degrees or colder. It runs all the time to keep the windows from steaming even in colder temps. Mine's garage kept so even on zero degree mornings it will run, but once the temperature sensor reads 35 degrees or so it will shut off.

superjim Senior Enthusiast

superjim

Posted
Posted
It was around freezing a few mornings ago. Hit the "Auto" button, and the snow flake lights up as well, Temp set to about 73F. Interior was probably high 30s at that moment.

 

Am I correct to assume that the compressor is ALWAYS running when the snowflake is lit, or does the Auto Climate Control turn the compressor off as needed when cold?

 

I admit that in the cold I turn the snow flake button OFF with AUTO on, as I am trying to heat the car.

 

I understand why the compressor must work for defrost, but it seems bizarre to me that with all the gee-whiz gadgetry of the Auto Climate Control that it would always run the compressor, even in winter.

 

I asked my local GMC service shop, and they believe that a lit snow flake = Compressor Running. The manual wasn't terribly clear about all of this.

 

The service guy was honest in-so-far that he said "I'm not positive, but I think the snow flake means the compressor is running" ....

 

Enquiring minds want to know.

 

 

If I am not mistaken, (and I could be :( ) on the newer trucks, it not only knows the inside and outside temps, but also the humidity.

 

So, therefore, if you have it on AUTO, it will cycle the compressor on and off as needed to control humidity and thus the fogging up of your inside windows.

 

If you push the button and turn the snowflake OFF... as long as it is off, the compressor will not come on at all.... EVER.

 

Jim from Texas

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...