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So I hate to tell you guys that thats not my picture. I took it off of google because I didn't feel like going out to my truck when I posted the question.

Don't like the look or the price of 20's.

There are three kits: 1. Outlaw - Most aggressive https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/exhaust_systems/flowmaster/flowfx/parts/718111 2. American Thunder - mid aggressive https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/exhaust_systems/flowmaster/american_thunder/parts/817933 3. FlowFX - least aggressive. https://www.holley.com/products/exhaust/exhaust_systems/flowmaster/outlaw_series/parts/818112 Who has had the FlowFX? Does it drone bad? I know, it's all relative, give me some feedback. On Friday afternoons after a couple beers I'm more along the lines of, "F-it. I'm getting the Outlaw kit". The 6 other days, I'm thinking FlowFX. I hate my moments indecision.

It does run a little warm since there's no fan, but my phone's doing wireless AA at the same time, so I'm sure that's playing some role. It does fast wireless charging with the correct adapter. With that tray, the lining that comes with it keeps it in place and same with the phone.

....and no catch can? NO WAY!!!

I grabbed a new switch panel (TC, cargo light, aux 1-4) and thanks to the wonderful posts from @TinkeringFox, @Lethal69GTO, and @tha_lildude I've successfully wired it into my factory x50a block. I got partially lucky and even though I didn't have the wires already run to the x48a block, I DID for whatever reason already have an x50a block with the proper terminals so all I had to do was run from x48a to x50a. Now here's my question: what the heck is the part number for the factory relay? It doesn't look like any other relays in the box that will fit the locations for the factory upfitter relays are 30A relays...but I'm also not finding much info on them spec-wise. From my understanding these are 30 amp circuits right so I need a 30A or higher relay? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I was eyeing maybe the GM 9815 "HI PWR" relay but the only docs I can find on that seem to cite 10A but that's probably not even reliable since it's just on an Amazon listing.

Seeing those charts make my eyes bleed. I picked up over the years what vehicles generally need more frequent maintenance. Like going to the doctor for my yearly blood work. The results come in. I’m comparing with the previous year’s on my chart. About the time I got myself worked up. The nurse calls and says you’re doing great for your age. You should probably cut back on…. to head off future problems. And I do. Much like changing oil more often in certain vehicles. To ward off future problems.

The hardest thing I do is make myself understood.

I must tell you, I have a lot of reading to do before I have a chance at understanding the oil properties posts you make. Apparently I had still been stuck in the muck of ignorance after reading your motor oil report. On the first run through I read that Marty advises some individuals in this group who just so happen to have 6 children, that they'd better watch over them or the oil giants will get them. I had to rewind for a moment to realize you meant watching your 6 O'clock position (posterior). Thanks for the unintended laugh that I had on myself. Now I can return to my fog of ignorance.

Decided its time to change the look alittle bit. Here is a rough Photoshop of how it will look. First part came yesterday, 14/15 Denali lower piece. I also got a new bumper valance because winter ruined mine

Fixed that for you. The high country is the top end street trim, it should not be blacked out, the people who buy those trucks aren't 19. Chrome has always been associated with luxury and class, that hasn't changed and that is who they are trying to target with these trucks, the ones with money in most cases (they tend to be older). Gun to my head, chrome over black hands down. A balance is much better though. Chrome bumper for sure (they are much more durable than paint), aluminum silver wheels or a gunmetal (everyone and the suburban moms have black wheels which are just plain with no character), chrome trim surround grill with black center and then some painted handles and mirror caps and so on. The blacked outlook fad should be dying any day now. Though offering a package isn't a bad idea... Tyler

Yeah I have the stock 18” and would never personally want 20” wheels on a pickup. I prefer to look and road feel of more sidewall on a truck. now for a sports car I prefer the low profile look.

When I picked up my 23 Sierra my salesman said to me that GM condensed the owners manual and it was in fact a lot less pages than my 19 High Country, he said I can look online for a complete owners manual.

Actually managed to overhaul with engine still in vehicle, but am tracing wires again to double check. Thank you

I'll spoil it. 16.5 straight highway and 15.7 combined with a little city driving. TFL also has a video out with the new diesel and the all important 0-60. 7.7 @ 5000' elevation.

Correct, about 115k. Throttle body actually looks kinda new and I have already done a cleaning. Dirty TB really cause such a intermittent issue? Was thinking more on the electronics side. Possible failing throttle position sensor. Only seems to start acting up after reaching operating temp. Jumped in it this morning was going to run it to the dealership and ofcouse it's not doing it now... Just trying the narrow it down, and hopefully eliminate the likelihood of a failing transmission. Would a throttle body issue really cause transmission slippage, not downshifting or upshifting correctly and not fully engaging gears or delayed engagement? Also forgot to mention that I bought it at a dealership over a month ago. Tried taking it back up there to have it diagnosed the morning after it was continually happening and ofcouse they couldn't diagnosing since it wasn't still happening. Don't know the full history on it and the new looking throttle body makes me think someone at some point thought that might be the issue as well.

You didn't mention your miles but I will assume that it's probably around 100k. Do you have any codes? My guess is that it may be your throttle body is carboned up. It could be other things but without any code information, it's just a guess. Search youtube for throttle body cleaning

Are you looking for key on power only? On the right side instrument panel, there is a junction block. There are pins, not fuses, that can be tapped into. You need #31, Retained accessory power ignition voltage. It powers up on ignition and stays alive 15 mins after shutdown. It is on an internal 15 amp circuit breaker that powers Acc power receptacle. I added a 10 amp fuse inline. Be careful where you tap in, you must know exactly what pin to use power. I would suggest ALLDATA DIY subscription. It's OEM GM info, diagrams, technical service bulletins

wow, that is tough.. Hope Walt can help you out.

I messaged the link from the video , The rear screen runs off of Bus Can commands on the Blue cables with the Mini usb , So you can't just plug in an hdmi cable . Im sure there is some kind of Module . Maybe I'll try calling Walt . You can't even use any other screens , The OEM Screen deciphers the Can Bus Signals ( So I was told ) & I tried changing mine to a bigger Alpine Screen & there was No Signal for picture .

I was able to fix the problem myself. Remove the rubber covering behind the screen. Loosen and then re- tighten the little bolts holding the screen in place (not too tight, don’t break the plastic). Keep the rubber cover off for a few days as you drive the truck and adjust bolts if needed again. Sometimes it would return and I just needed to tighten ever so slightly again. The bolts are more settled in now is my guess and I hardly ever hear the sound anymore. It’ll still come up occasionally but not often and much less pronounced.

He posted an unloaded 150mi drive to test gas mileage. No difference between the 6 and 10 speed. He even mentioned the final drive ratio being so close that he didn’t anticipate much difference.

Well, nothing like updating 2 years later, lol. Not a lot has happened. I've been super busy, and it's been sitting. However, in the past week I've finished the last of the metal work on the bed side. It now only needs to neutralize the Ospho, let it dry, epoxy prime and do the bondo work. Have almost pulled the trigger on an engine block a couple of times lately, trying to go with more cubes. May end up just buying a Bowtie from the dealer, since I get a good discount and they are actually available. I will update again, hopefully soon.

Justin with Blackbear performance told me the stock driveshaft is good to 130ish. I should say that 130ish is for the 8spds with 3.23 gearing.

Not on my '23. Supplied manual has 1/2 the info of the online one. Found that out when I looked at the online before picking up truck. Now I have to pour through it to see if the online is up to date.

If you bought the GM Extended warranty you will get back the remaining warranty money that is left on that warranty. Same goes for trading in a vehicle of the unused ext. warranty, so in your case you will get back 95% of your ext. warranty money.

I couldn't help but laugh at this statement. GM doesn't owe you anything, your insurance does. As said before, vehicles burn daily, even new vehicles. There are SEVERAL factors that can lead to a vehicle fire, that unfortunately you can never investigate because of the amount of damage. It could have been a short in a wire than an animal bit into or it could have been a nest or something an animal pulled into the truck. Stuff happens, suck it up, make an insurance claim, buy a new truck, and move on. Your lumps are not anyone's fault, it is life. A lawsuit against GM is bad advice.

Yup, Walt's a great guy, bought stuff from him before. Lots of these Android unit seem to run the same base OS, with each vendor tweaking it to their spec/liking. So, beside what extra's they put in, the customer/support services separates them. I heard/read Phoenix has bad after sales support on some of the forums.. but they are still selling like hotcakes.. If my unit dies, then I'll most likely got with the Linkswell next. Didn't get them with the other Gen's as they were missing some of the OEM features I didn't want to give up, but they are getting better with including them now. Congrats on the new setup!

Thanks folks. After long consideration, I decided on the Linkswell Gen5 12.1". Thanks to MikeBMW for his recommendation of ADC Mobile. I called Walt a couple times and he was very helpful. Yesterday, I spoke to him and he said the units were in stock again. I ordered last night. I guess I'm old school. I wanted a "built-in" looking unit. The "floating screen" just doesn't appeal to me. Most of the Crutchfield offerings are floating screen style, in the larger (9-11") screens. Options I ordered were the Bose adapter, Denali trim, front camera, upgrade rear, right side camera, anti-glare screen protector. I was reluctant to give up the OEM HVAC controls, since they are very intuitive and minimize distraction to operate. The Linkswell moves HVAC control to the screen, but does have some basic push-buttons along the sides of the screen. I'll post back when it arrives.

Takeoffs are 1500-2000 tops unless its 22s. All in. GLWS.

My brake monitor has always been checking brakes when I rotate tires. GMs brake system has failures it seems like other systems do. Technology is great when it works.

Might be the angle that I'm taking the pictures. Here's a side shot. I thought the same at first but now doesn't look/feel as big as when I first installed it. I like it for split screening.

Yes, it has that as well. These are your audio settings.

There’s only one vehicle that could be worth the new car price in my opinion. I haven’t driven the Maverick yet so there’s that. Some may be worth CPO prices once demand levels out. The dealers I use check my brakes with every oil change, I watch them do it. All my vehicles have slot wheels I can actually check myself. The stuff I really care about is how long is the starter and alternator going to last? They could strand you. Brakes can grind all the way home. But I’ll get there. Starter, you’re stranded. I’d rather have several nice used vehicles than one new one. I ain’t walking. And the big plus side a truck, van, sports sedan and sports car. My different moods covered.

So, I was in the same situation, been sitting on a T-style replacement that kept all the options(dynamic parking guide, steering wheel control, OEM options menu, XM, Onstar) I was looking at the Linkswell gen 5, but I didn't want to also buy the BOSE adapter, but I was running separate amp anyways, so might have not needed it. Saw a post of some guy on FB group that installed the one @PAPER posted about, msg that guy some questions and ordered it. Liking it so far, everything works for me. I really wanted the Linkswell.. but the price and extra adapter(if I really needed it) was way more than what I bought this one for. I think Linkswell and Phoenix has more system settings you can mess with compared to this one(might have hidden certain options in the menus), as long as all the stuff work, wasn't too worried about that part(yet). But this also had more RAM/Storage(8GB/128GB). I had bought the multi-cam(Rosta) from Walt when he first started selling it. Luckily, he lives about 30/mins away from me :). and that still works when I go into the Console part if I ever need to use it again. I used it all the time. I think you can buy a 360 add on kit for this unit, might check it out. Need to order the HD backup camera. Here's the unit installed in my truck. Going to vinyl wrap the trim parts like I did with my OEM trim. That black is too glossy for my taste. More picture in the other thread/post: What have you done to your K2 today I installed Nova Launcher as I didn't like the 2 launcher that came with it. Netflix/Disney+/Youtube/Amazon Video all works.

So, been keeping an eye on a bigger head unit(Android) and finally bit the bullet. Saw someone on a FB group with it and gave it a go. Liking it so far. All options work(steering wheel, etc) like my factory unit. All plug-n-play. Only thing extra is you have to use the AUX jack so audio will pass to the head unit. Found out my AUX jack was defective(never used it since I bought truck new). Had to buy a new one, almost return this unit.. You can split screen apps, it's 4G LTE, so if you want, you can add a SIM. Still messing with all settings. You can if you want, even go to the "Console" if you need to change any setting like you would with the OEM unit. This thing is huge!!

For sale are my set of custom painted, OEM Sierra Denali LED Tail Lights. I had these painted to go on my truck and unfortunately they took so long I had to go a different direction before I got them back.. I have since moved up to a 3/4 diesel and am hoping these can find an owner who will appreciate the time, effort, and $$$ that went into creating them! These OEM LED Tail Lights are selling for $300 - $500 a piece online, and the cost to have these custom painted Mineral Metallic to match the Denali paint + the lens smoked (lightly, not enough to dim them when lit!) was $700 - looking to get $1,000 including shipping. Can cut a better deal if wanting to pick up in person in the Houston, TX area. Please reach out for additional pictures, questions, etc. I respond much quicker via text (405) 642-9097 Thanks!

No, its not a one time use plug. Replace it only if its leaking or doesn't lock in place anymore.

Follow-up to my previous post. TinkeringFox has identified the terminals on Page 15 of this thread. I added some additional info. S48A-X2 (18-cavity connector) - AUX 1 through 4 button press trigger (signal) Cavity: 10-13 (10=AUX4, 11=AUX3, 12=AUX2, 13=AUX1) Mouser P/N: 306-SHCM-A03T-P025 JST Automotive, FEMALE 1.5MM, 22-20AWG - OR- Mouser P/N: 306-SHCM-A04T-P025 JST Automotive, FEMALE 1.5MM, 24AWG S48A-X1 (6-cavity connector) Mouser P/N: 571-5-962885-1 (see drawing in previous post) TE Connectivity, FEMALE, 24-22AWG X61A-X1 & -X5 - Relay Trigger (signal) Wire (for use on small male spades) X5 Cavity: 10=AUX1, 11=AUX3, 17=AUX2, 23=AUX4 X1 Cavity: 21=AUX1, 30=AUX3, 34=AUX2, 38=AUX4 Mouser P/N: 272-7116410002 YAZAKI, FEMALE 1.5mm, 20AWG X50A-X3 & -X4 - Upfitter Relay Trigger (signal) Wire (for use on small male spades) X3 Cavity: M5=AUX1, F3=AUX2 X4 Cavity: L6=AUX3, L1=AUX4 Mouser P/N: 272-7116410002 YAZAKI, FEMALE 1.5mm, 20AWG X50A-X3 & X4 - Upfitter Relay Output Voltage (for use on medium male spades) X3 Cavity: M7=AUX1 X4 Cavity: G2=AUX2, K5=AUX3, K2=AUX4 Mouser P/N: 272-7116411202 YAZAKI, FEMALE 2.8mm, 14AWG NOTE: User CAPTADAMJ posted excellent "how to" on page 22 of this thread. Be sure to review Upfitter Bulletin 110N (or newer) RPO 9L7 (LINKY HERE) pages 6 through 8 detailing the proper configuration of fuses in an X50A Under-hood Electrical Center (UEC) fitted to handle the usage of these switches. -Darryl

Here you go! 2019-2021 High Country chromed wheels

Stock drive shaft - no issues whatsoever.

I have the GU6 - REAR AXLE 3.42 RATIO and tuned the speedometer for the 35s. It runs as well as when I had the stock tires. No issues on the highways and, shh, I've had it over a hundred a time or two.

UOA Labs 3/15/2023 A point of clarification is required. Listen carefully. IMHO; Synthetic Advantage Advanced UOA test is currently the gold standard touchstone. I never said otherwise but as some believe I have; there it is. Even the stripped-down Tuner version gives more information you can actually use than many labs 'complete' reports. At the other end of the spectrum, IMHO, is Blackstone. And not because I question the results of things like wear metals and additive concentrations or lack of certification under ISO standards. But rather they just don't test the things I feel are absolutely part of any test I have an interest in reading. TBN/TAN and Oxidation for starters. They give just enough to be useless WITHOUT a strong history with the oil under the microscope. They have one strength IMO. The library they keep on motor types that prove useful in knowing what is 'normal' or at least familiar and a mileage marker to extrapolate with. In short, they tell me much about the oils additives but not much about the oils condition nor the tools required to sort the issues. Blind guess work without foundation. There are labs in the middle. Once I know what I'm working with I have no issues with those services. Some of these include test I personally find very useful that the first two do not but that I can live without. Something I would use to maintain but not problem solve. No one is complete and yet Synthetic Advantage comes very close. It's my first choice for "Benchmark" work and problem-solving situations. For what it's worth.

My truck has 58k miles on it and I already have hard shifts pretty frequently with the 6L80. The torque converter swap is not something I'm capable of doing in my apartment parking space, but I do want to attempt some of these other recommendations. Already changed the fluid early this year which didn't seem to have a major effect.

I typically to a drain/fill every 25-30k miles on transmissions, and don't even bother with the multiple drain/fills within a short time interval anymore due to the frequency of replacement. Filter every 50k. I installed a drain plug in my transmission pan so a drain/fill is stupid-easy, and any particulate that has fallen out of suspension is removed as well. I also pour in a 10oz bottle of Lubegard Red on every fill to every transmission. Here's the UOA on the ATF in my '08 E83, which has the GM 6L45 transmission. Not completely apples-apples compared to a 6L80/90 transmission, but not exactly Apples-Ford either. Other than fluids/filters, the transmission is completely stock at 190,500 miles, and has never offered a hint of shudder, trouble, or shifting issue. The fluid was last drained/filled at 165k miles, when the LG was added. Is there life left in the fluid? Sure. But as fluid and suspended particulate vary inversely, and my goal is to maximize the life of the unit, not the fluid. I'm too cheap to skimp on maintenance, and treat the K2 to the same service regimen as the old Roundel. The K2 is due for a fluid change in ~10k miles, and I'll send the fluid in at that point as well. I'm not concerned with the fluid as much as I'm looking for metals, especially in the 6L90 transmission, considering the known TC issues. Note Blackstone's comment about the amount of metal in this sample: proof that the LG works awesome? Not quite. Support for that hypothesis? Certainly. Also from experience, the LG works great for knocking out the shudder from an older, neglected transmission; it cured all shift issues in my '05 F150 FX4 which didn't receive its first ATF change until 145k miles.

17 days ago. While driving at highway speed, smoke began to appear from the centre stack/console area and then there were flames. I pulled over, got out, called 911 and watched my truck burn to the ground. 2020 Silverado Duramax, dealer maintained, extended warranty with 103,000 kms on the clock. Truck is a total loss and completely destroyed, along with $10k+ of equipment in the bed. GM is silent. No direct contact from them whatsoever. Life turned upside down. No answers from dealer. At time of incident there were 30 stored codes in the ECU. I had an appointment at the dealer for the Friday of the week this happened.