Jump to content

Is your GMT-900 using oil  

1,555 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Has anybody tried Auto-Rx (oil additive) to clean their AFM-caused stuck-piston-ring-packs? Did it work or is it just 'snake oil'?

 

Specifically I'm wondering if installing the revised valve cover and running an AutoRx treatment along with having the AFM turned off by a Range V8 module would fix the oil usage problem?

 

Seems like most everyone is saying that installing the AFM oil deflector in the oil pan along with the top-cylinder cleaning [removing spark plugs and filling cylinders with fuel injector cleaner for 3 hours, but NO LONGER than 3 hours (?)] does not work on many vehicles. Hate to have my vehicle 'torn into', especially if it accomplishes nothing! Honestly, if my dealer did the valve cover and oil pan deflector and THEN said that didn't work and it still needed new pistons/rings, I'd just trade it in at that point, even though I can't afford to . . . and even then GOOD LUCK finding something on the lot with a V6 or V8 that doesn't have AFM!

Edited by Maverick Z71
Posted

I wasn't thrilled about them going into my engine so many times, but I felt better with the extra 30K warranty they gave me on it. I figure if it was gonna explode due to their negligence in tearing it down & rebuilding it, it would have done so by now.

 

Just like an open heart surgery comes down to the guy holding the scalpel, an engine rebuild comes down to the mechanic. Maybe demand that the Svc Mgr puts his most senior guy (or most trusted guy) on your engine.

 

FC

Posted

...but they finally came to their senses and agreed to do it the correct way...

 

I quoted you because I want the GM Costumer Service to read your sentence again.

 

so long

j-ten-ner

Posted

Seafoam or a decent flush with oil changes wouldn't hurt.

Posted

Seafoam or a decent flush with oil changes wouldn't hurt.

 

 

Might not help, either. If put in through the spark plug holes and soaked, where does all that crap that busted loose go? If not out the exhaust, then maybe between the rings and cylinder walls? Bad scene, baby! This is a concern I've read some folks have with soaking oil coked intake valves on DI motors.

Posted

^ how much oil is it using?

 

I have read the thread. Any one have the fix and have put enough miles on the truck to know if it is working???

STex,

I think I may qualify to answer your question.

My 2008 5.3 daily driver was using 2-3 qts/oil change with mileage out of wty. I researched oil consumption and frankly had a hard time believing that a modern GM V8 with all of its engineered glory could burn oil at that rate. I first went "old school" and had mechanic do a compression check. All cylinders looked great on bottom end rings/compression. So I went with the AFM / Valve Cover route. Apparently, the valve cover has the PCV valve built in, not the old plug-in the rubber-grommet type in the engines of old. This design allows oil to blow into top of intake manifold and then spill into cylinders when crevices fill up.

 

I had dealer change the valve cover to upgraded cover (TSB), and took truck to a local speed shop and had AFM turned off, and motor tuned for everyday driving. After > 100K miles since work completed, I do NOT burn any oil. Repeat. Oil Consumption has STOPPED since upgrading valve cover and turning off AFM. Truck runs better today than it did 4 yrs ago while under warranty.

 

Trust me, no oil loss at 5k oil change intervals.

As of 2/1/14 my daily driver has 322,230 miles. No issues, other than I would not buy another GM.

Posted

 

 

HCGuy, did you also get the "AFM shield" installed in the oil pan, or just replace the valve cover with the one with the "AFM baffle" in it?

I did not do the shield in the oil pan, nobody can clearly explain what or how that will help oil consumption.. My truck runs great at 322K with AFM turned off and valve cover upgraded. No oil loss, no issues, driving it till she quits. It is really pissing off the local dealer that services the truck. They were fully expecting to sell another new one by now. I think high mileage vehicles well maintained is the only way to get your $ back from the high initial cost and the poor resale $,

Posted

The AFM shield deflects and helps stop oil mist/vaporization which has a greater chance of getting sucked out by the pcv system.

Posted

I have 2007 5.3 Aluminum block AFM engine. Had oil consumption problem with mine from about 30k to 70k and getting worse. Took it to the dealer and they did a consumption study and they performed the first "fix"---the oil pan and valve cover thing. Didn't help at all. They then recommended the full job--new pistons and rings. Hasn't burned a drop of oil in 6k miles. Runs great. It was out of warranty of course. I tried to get GMC to pay for all of it but we agreed on 50/50. Figured it was worth it. Feel like I have a new lease on life for my motor now.

Posted

 

Thanks for the reply strike 1st. I hear you. GM had better have the '14s fixed as to eating oil. My '09 is at 60,000 miles and will be out of wty in 3 months. Using 1 1/2 -2 qts per 5,000 mile oil change. So, wty goes away and oil consumption jumps to the GM oh we would fix that level of burn but sorry Charlie out of wty. .

 

Heck my '90 GMC sub only burns 1/2 qt on a 4,000 mile oil change and it has 356,000 miles on an original 350 ci engine. Most of that is valve stem seals.

 

I was looking at Blue oval but now they have the aluminum thing going. Having worked in metallurgy, I am going to let that work out before going there. Well the 2015 Stang looks good and I hear you can see out of it, unlike the Camaro. So maybe keep the 09 oil well and get a stang for kicks.

 

So hope the '14 works and like you say surely (don't call me Shirley) GM has the oil thing fixed now. If not, I would return it like the old lady returns tires on the discount commercial.

 

I have a 2008 5.3 K1500 oil well, and a 2013 'Stang. Just as you say I got the 'Stang because I can see out of it. The Challenger is a heavy boat, and the 'slowmaro you can't see out of . Yes the Camaro in black looks like a bat type car, problem is driving you cant see out of it cause its a bat like car ;)

 

Art

Posted

I have 2007 5.3 Aluminum block AFM engine. Had oil consumption problem with mine from about 30k to 70k and getting worse. Took it to the dealer and they did a consumption study and they performed the first "fix"---the oil pan and valve cover thing. Didn't help at all. They then recommended the full job--new pistons and rings. Hasn't burned a drop of oil in 6k miles. Runs great. It was out of warranty of course. I tried to get GMC to pay for all of it but we agreed on 50/50. Figured it was worth it. Feel like I have a new lease on life for my motor now.

 

Now do it right... disable the AFM and put on a PCV oil catch can. That will go a long ways to preventing this ever happening again.

Posted

 

Now do it right... disable the AFM and put on a PCV oil catch can. That will go a long ways to preventing this ever happening again.

 

DO you know who makes a catch can for this model 5.3 truck engine? I have on on my Mustang.

Posted

I use the one from Conceptual Poymer on mine.

 

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/High%20Efficiency%20Air.htm

 

But there are good ones from RevXtreme and others as well.

 

http://www.revxtreme.com/rx-catch-can-single-check-valve

 

Any number catch cans will work. Just need 3/8 in fuel quality hose to connect it up. Just make sure the brand of CC you get has good filtration media in it. Those cheapie catch cans on Ebay and such are not worth the trouble and don't do much of anything. A lot will still get past them.

Posted

I use the one from Conceptual Poymer on mine.

 

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/High%20Efficiency%20Air.htm

 

But there are good ones from RevXtreme and others as well.

 

http://www.revxtreme.com/rx-catch-can-single-check-valve

 

Any number catch cans will work. Just need 3/8 in fuel quality hose to connect it up. Just make sure the brand of CC you get has good filtration media in it. Those cheapie catch cans on Ebay and such are not worth the trouble and don't do much of anything. A lot will still get past them.

 

Thanks CowPie, I guess I was hoping there was a custom one that replaces the factory hose(s). The JLT can on my Ford uses custom hoses with end connectors that just snap in place where the original hoses did. Oh well, it will give me something to do to rig it up ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
    • It was never mandated.  Ever.    Automakers were incentivized to install it by getting CAFE credits to help with their vehicle fleet fuel economy scores.  They were being handed money/CAFE credits to install it.  Which is NOT a mandate.       The current admin removed the incentives that were behind them installing it.       
    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...