Jump to content

My truck stands corrected


Recommended Posts

Posted

That looks awesome! Congrats! I've looked at hundreds of trucks on this site, but I'm still amazed at how much difference a 2" lift and different wheels & tires makes on these trucks!

 

I'm assuming they replaced the stock block with a 2" block in the rear...for .75" of lift?

  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Could you get a picture down the side? Id like to see how even the wheels and tires are with the fender.

Posted

That looks awesome! Congrats! I've looked at hundreds of trucks on this site, but I'm still amazed at how much difference a 2" lift and different wheels & tires makes on these trucks!

 

I'm assuming they replaced the stock block with a 2" block in the rear...for .75" of lift?

 

 

Thanks, I am excited that my truck now sits higher than my co-workers F150s. I think these trucks look better proportionally with that extra couple of inches. The front end just seems bulky until you level it out. I have already had several comments about how large the truck appears.

You are correct that I replaced the 1.25" stock blocks with 2" just to gain that 0.75". I did not want the truck to go past level and thought adding 2.25" in the front would be right on the line of sloping to a cali lean.

 

Could you get a picture down the side? Id like to see how even the wheels and tires are with the fender.

 

 

Definitely, will add tonight.

 

those wheels are badass! although you picked a pretty expensive tire size! why did you go with the 285s?

 

 

Thanks:D I think so, the diamondcut looks even better in person! They have a multi-dimensional look. For the tires, I wanted the added width of the 285's without going all the way to 305's and risking having to trim. My backup plan was the 275/60's but I really like the wider tire even if its only 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. That... and well I found a solid deal on some take off BFG's that only had 5,000 miles on them.

Posted

I noticed that the Sierras come with 275 55 20's, so going up to a 285 55 20 tire on the stock rims wont give me that offset look at I correct? How wide are the stock 20's and what would I need to go with to get that offset look, at a minimum rim size without rubbing, then at rubbing to where I will need to have mods done to the fenderwell?

 

Also, did you actually lift the truck up some? I know most say the trucks sit up too high so they would want to lower it some I would think.

 

thoughts on lowering it some and best ways to do it without messing up the ride quality?

Posted

Could you get a picture down the side? Id like to see how even the wheels and tires are with the fender.

 

 

Sorry for the awful cell phone after dark pic, but the tires are almost even with the wheel wells

Wheelsideview.jpg

 

Nice. pull off that lower valence

 

 

You know, I thought for sure that is what I wanted... took off the valance last weekend and it reminded me of my older body style '04 that I just traded in. I was not happy with it so I put the valance back on for now. Open to other opinions...

 

With

TruckwithLevelandWheels010-1.jpg

 

Without

Truck016.jpg

Posted

I took my lower valence off for a few months and decided I liked it better with it on too. So I reinstalled it. So glad I didnt throw it out.

Posted

Could you get a picture down the side? Id like to see how even the wheels and tires are with the fender.

 

 

Sorry for the awful cell phone after dark pic, but the tires are almost even with the wheel wells

Wheelsideview.jpg

 

Nice. pull off that lower valence

 

 

You know, I thought for sure that is what I wanted... took off the valance last weekend and it reminded me of my older body style '04 that I just traded in. I was not happy with it so I put the valance back on for now. Open to other opinions...

 

With

TruckwithLevelandWheels010-1.jpg

 

Without

Truck016.jpg

 

 

 

 

Thank You Sir that picture is fine. Thats exactly how I want my wheels to be when I get a set. Do you have any idea what your Backspacing, Rim Width, and Offset are?

Posted

Thanks for the additional information and pictures!

 

IMO...it looks better without the lower valance...but it's your truck!

Posted

The truck looks great, very classy and not overdone. I like it better without the valance.

Posted

I took my valance off once and cut it in half,looked better,then winter came so I pulled it off completly so a snow bank woulden't, I diden't like it at first now that it has been off for a couple weeks I doubt I will go back.I had a chevy before this one and I cut the valance in half on that and it looked really sharp.Personally I think yours looks great with or witout the valance as you now have clearance either way.

Posted

 

 

Thank You Sir that picture is fine. Thats exactly how I want my wheels to be when I get a set. Do you have any idea what your Backspacing, Rim Width, and Offset are?
20"x9", +18mm offset
Posted

Something worth mentioning, any time you loosen or remove and pivoting type part, you need to torque all the fasteners with the wheels on the gound, and after you have backed the truck up 20 feet, then pull it back in. Doing this will ensure you have gotten the suspension bushings and tires to be under no twisting load.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 
    • I really did not measure what came out. I carefully followed directions to check level after i did the spill and fill and filter change. I used 10 quarts. 9 was not quite enough. My trans temp was about 175 when I checked it. Truck sitting in my driveway very close to level where I always check oil pretty much every time for consistency. My driveway is just ever so slightly downhill to run water to the street.
    • Sounds like maybe it's announcing Navigation turns or Alerts (it mutes the music) ? When it mutes again, turn up the volume quickly and see if maybe the navigation volume is really low?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...