Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Why? Your driveshafts are splined to your transfer case... nothing to do with the trans. Length wise yes but that's easy for any driveshaft shop.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Yeah that's what I figured since the 80 is longer. So far my 60 has held up, not sure what I'll do when it goes. But if a 4l80 isn't too bad to swap in I'd consider it...

Posted

Its been done so many times you can get the parts you need all over the net now. You can even get plug and play harnesses so you don't have have to segment swap the tune or do the old reverse polarity with a relay trick. Its nowhere as easy as swapping in another 60e... that's monkey work. But its a do it once and never worry again type of thing for most people anyway.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I'll look into it more. I'm assuming a stock 80 would be suitable for my needs?

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted

Yep. Add an hd2 shuft kit if you want to but otherwise the stockers are very durable. A better torque converter is a wise investment though. The stock one is such a pig.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted
Yep. Add an hd2 shuft kit if you want to but otherwise the stockers are very durable. A better torque converter is a wise investment though. The stock one is such a pig.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

You talking bout the stall for the converter or just the stock converter in general?

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted

Stock converter in general. Its just heavy and very inefficient. It stalls to around 2600 rpm in my trucks but in no way does anything for acceleration

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Going out to fix my ground wire to my amp damn thing came undone

 

sent from my truck in a field

 

 

Posted
Stock converter in general. Its just heavy and very inefficient. It stalls to around 2600 rpm in my trucks but in no way does anything for acceleration

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

What stall you recommend? And what company? Don't do any racing but I tow once in a while

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted

Honestly for most guys 2600-2800 is just fine. I personally like a little more but then the cam and heads dictate that. If the engine is stock mostly less than 3000 will be nice. Converters aren't all equal though. A loose 3000 will drive worse than a tight 3500. Yank, PI, and Circle D all make nice stuff.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Well never mind its too damn cold to use my tools can't stand anything around here anymore

 

sent from my truck in a field

 

 

Posted
Well never mind its too damn cold to use my tools can't stand anything around here anymore

 

sent from my truck in a field

 

At least your tranny hasn't gone out 4 times in about 2 years...

 

Sent while drinkin' a cold one...

 

 

Posted (edited)

You guys talking about replacing the truck under 100k... Come on its not even broke in yetsent from my truck in a field

I think they are skeered. 50's mentality that its hits 100k and then blow up. Airbagsbknock out their kids, wheels fly off at highway speed, and the odometer shorts out like a Y2K bug.

 

I had a BMW with 268K miles. I ain't skeered. I'll save the money for a Vette.

 

Also, my redneck lingo is done for the day.

 

But seriously, Ryan might have a heart attack before his truck hits 85. Looks how long it took him to put 40k on it. The stress will get to him long before then.

:lol:

Edited by SnakeEyes

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...