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Posted

Replaced the cabin air filter today

 

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Also cleaned the outside. Spent 2 hours on it and it still looks like crap. Only downside to being on a well, the hard water spots. Guess I need to detail it. Or just trade it in... [emoji23] [emoji23]

 

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Posted

Truck hit 60k on the way to work last night. Thing is barely broken in, but I do wonder what's going to break/go bad next though.

Posted

Just had a guy come over with a very puzzling problem with a 2004 Sierra. Kinda looks BCM related but.... He came to see me thinking he had a cluster problem but when I put my spare in, to work on his, my spare did the same thing. I'm no know it all so I'm asking you guys. All 4 small gauges don't work until you press the brake pedal, then they come alive for about 5 seconds. If you leave your foot on the brake pedal they keep working. You can pull the truck out of park without pressing the brake, dome light will only come on when pressing the brake. Rear backup lights don't work unless pressing the brake. Somebody here must have come across this before.

Posted

Sounds like the power wire to the tail lights from the brake switch is powering up the BCM or cluster somehow. Or it could be a bad ground to the BCM that's finding ground through the brake pedal switch when it's closed. Electricity can do some strange stuff ...

Posted

Topped off the cooling system with distilled water, only took a few cups. I believe the last time I filled up was possibly last summer in July? The minor leak at the water pump persists and it's still not worth the effort to replace.

 

I also added half a quart of oil a few nights ago. Oil is only at the halfway point at 2,500 miles.

 

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Posted

Installed a new drivers side mirror on the duramax. Unfortunately I was stoooooooopid and forgot to order one with the integrated LED turn signal into the mirror. But at this point, who cares.

Posted

Not sure if I mentioned this last weekend when I towed the bikes to go riding but I always keep the truck in 4th gear with tow/haul activated so it's not gear hunting and I have some power on tap if I need it. Anyways, the coolant temp climbed slightly above the 210 mark which I though was odd considering they just flushed my system, replaced the thermostat, and also the radiator under the extended warranty. This is certainly not the heaviest load I've towed with the truck but I'm just wondering why it climbed up that far, considering its never left the 210 mark in the history of me driving this truck. Coolant was topped off too, weirdest thing.

 

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Posted

Not sure if I mentioned this last weekend when I towed the bikes to go riding but I always keep the truck in 4th gear with tow/haul activated so it's not gear hunting and I have some power on tap if I need it. Anyways, the coolant temp climbed slightly above the 210 mark which I though was odd considering they just flushed my system, replaced the thermostat, and also the radiator under the extended warranty. This is certainly not the heaviest load I've towed with the truck but I'm just wondering why it climbed up that far, considering its never left the 210 mark in the history of me driving this truck. Coolant was topped off too, weirdest thing.

 

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Maybe a little bit of air in the system?

Posted

Might just be that this thermostat runs a few degrees warmer that what you removed. Parts these days ain't what they used to be, even straight from GM. Tolerances vary wildly. Only way to know for sure would be to heat both the old and new ones at the same time, and note water temp (in a pot) when they open.

 

When my truck was still very new back in '09, I had my temp gauge go way over 210° on a long, steep hill. Was 93° outside, and I kept my speed at 45mph towing about 5,700 - 6k lbs behind me (trailer weighs 2k, plus a '89 S10 Blazer). Transmission also hit 210° - hottest I have ever seen it. As soon as I crested the hill, both temps dropped like a rock, indicating the cooling system was working like it should.

 

Some things to check would be cooling fan operation, and for debris on or in between the radiator and condenser. My money is on the new t-stat just being slightly different from what was in there prior. As long as the temp came right down after the load was lessened, I think it'll be fine.

Posted

Drove to work on my new fall/winter/spring setup.

 

Lt295/70/17 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 on my old MB Gunner 6 wheels

 

 

 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Figured it was about time to fix an oil/coolant leak I've had for 14 years in the Grand Marquis, coming from the timing cover. 239k miles ... and just realized this thing had a plastic cam gear! I knew earlier 302's going back to the 70's had these, but I had some bad internet info that the '85 model was the last year of plastic, and that the '86 model year had the steel gear.

 

There was 1-1/4" of slop in the chain! Spec is 1/2"! Clock was ticking on that one, although I had the same car back in '00 that I ran to 258k miles and had never opened the timing cover. Never did water pump on that one either. Very well built cars, no question about it.

 

I was amazed at how dirty inside the engine was. Figured the FI plus my religious oil changes would've kept her clean. Guess I can't expect much after 31 years, & nearly 240k miles.

 

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While playing with all of this, I happened to notice the start signal wire to the solenoid was broken in several places. 31 years of engine heat / cool cycles took it's toll.

 

Made me think of our modern rigs. Imagine a 1" thick bundle of wires that looked like this? YIKES! No way the vehicle would run. Would light up the ECM on the first key-on cycle ...

 

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Also, finally got a smoke machine! Wasn't the $800 unit I had planned to buy - ended up being 10x cheaper. :smoker: Could've built it myself for alot less, but I figured I'd throw money at the problem and just get it fast. eBay, FTW! :lol:

 

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