Jump to content

Anyone with a 2010 get a letter from GM recently? Throttle Position Se


Recommended Posts

Posted

Few wks ago received a letter to make me aware of 2010 LD vehicles with V8 engines may have a condition with the throttle position sensor which causes the engine to run rough and cause the CEL light to come on or reduced engine power.

 

They basically have said only bring it in if you have the issue within 10 yrs/120K miles and it will be fixed free of charge. Also if the fix has been done and paid for they will reimburse you for the repairs.

Posted

Just to add to what Ryan is saying,and to help clear things up....this is NOT a recall.

It is a "Special Coverage Adjustment" and the repairs will be performed ONLY if you have the condition/issue.

The dealer will NOT replace the throttle position sensor "just to change it"

Posted

yea they state its not a recall in the letter.

 

So far no issues for me.

Posted

I got this letter the day I had this happen to me, except my truck went into limp mode and then stalled out. It didn't throw a code so the dealer said they could't fix without a code.

Posted

Yep got one too. Also got one about a month ago about transmission tube rubbing/vibating because of AFM. They are supposed to look at it.

 

 

The one on the transmission tube......they will either change the tube if it is damaged,or install a foam sleeve to prevent damage/rubbing.

Posted

If you have any additional questions or would like me to check your VIN, feel free to contact me privately. Thank you.

 

Tricia, GM Customer Service.

 

 

Tricia,

Just to let you know....running the VIN will not show any open required field actions or open service information,every one we've had in here at our dealership the VIN showed clean with nothing under those headings.

Posted

Like stated before this WILL NOT be changed out UNLESS you have the specific issue described in the letter. No need to worry about it or try to have it replaced. If you get the reduced engine power, have it towed to the dealership. That's about the only way they will chenge it for you.

Posted

My dealer told me they were having problems getting just the sleeves-so were changing the tubes which come with a sleeve. Also on this note-if anyone is having an issue with a buzzing noise at low speed when the AFM engages, this dipstick tube replacement will probably cure this issue as well. I'm assuming that the noise is actually the tube vibrating. The noise sounds like it is coming from the center dash/floor hump area.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Pryme ! I was thinking of adding one to my 2024 6.6 gas  . Could you elaborate a bit more on your statement  Thank You 
    • What a wonderful result! Great story telling to. You are quite multifaceted sir.  I'd keep it. Four is my limit too and yet we have five as well. One assigned the 'salt car' to do all those tasks you hate to ask of your 'Save for Good" crowd. 😉    Don't forget the antifreeze.    The Iron 4.3 is a favorite of mine. 
    • Thanks Buck Wallace ! The more owners that tell me they are getting the same noise the more comfortable I will be with it !
    • Ancillary parts to the lower intake and connections went together without issue.   There was a brief pause when I leak-tested the fuel lines and injection system. Fuel was spraying all over. Lovely. O-rings weren't sealing the fuel lines to the spider, and inbound line was leaking at schrader valve, leaks at both flange nuts. It's moments like those when you just want to set fire to the whole shop, and be done with it. I was mostly enjoying the project up until that point, and was tracking to an agenda of having a running Blazer and a cold beverage in hand by dinnertime.    I found some larger Viton o-rings for my spider and some grease to get them to seat. One leak solved. Swapped fuel line Schrader core for old core. Still leaked. Swapped entire valve for old valve. Leak solved. Nudged the flange nuts a little tighter on the connections. Another leak solved. I could cycle the key / prime the pump and the intake was staying dry.    Reassembled the upper intake, with 10,000 vacuum lines, and filled the cooling system with water* (this is temporary, I'm not done with the cooling system yet).   Showtime!!   Cranked it over and smoke billowed, it was running rough. CEL illuminated and began flashing. P0300 and I somehow tripped a code for the TPS sensor, voltage low.    There's nothing as unrewarding as a vehicle that won't run (and produces the same code/problem) after hours of research and work.   Clearly I was in over my head. Was the timing off, did I stab the distributor incorrectly? Is the new distributor bad? With my limited OBD 1.5 data stream I really don't have a lot of parameters to see. The engine was pulling mad timing again (flooding?).   Think, Atlas, think.   1-6-5-4-3-2. One, six, five.....four, three, ....two. Wait a second. That makes no sense. 1 is the forward cylinder on the driver's side, so 2 should be the forward cylinder on the passenger side, not 6.    I can't believe it, but I'm looking right at it. Swapped 2 and 6 on the distributor and turned the key over, and...   It fired, coughed and stumbled, smoked, and then settled into a smooth idle. The scanner showed no codes, no lights on the dash, and the throttle was nice and responsive to gentle revs while it warmed up.   It's working!!! IT'S WORKING!!!   I paused for a late dinner, no cold beverage yet. I was determined to do my shakedown run. Did a basic safety and fluids check one more time and then went out and put almost 70 miles on it last night. She's a runner, runs good.   Came home and did a post-trip, post-mortem. The underside is dry *except* for where the last owner RTV'd the snow out of the intersection of the timing cover and oil pan. He said he had replaced the timing cover seal, but, my dude had clearly done it incorrectly and then tried to hold back fate with black RTV. Never works.   Yesterday morning I replaced the broken driver's door mirror. As much as I hate cheap Chinese parts, thank goodness for cheap Chinese parts. I think an entire new power mirror assembly cost me like $30, and it works perfectly. Replacement tail lights (faded, and one was busted) ran me about $12/side. I have a door pin kit ready to go in because the driver's door sags just a little and I want to fix that because there's nothing sadder than a saggy door.   I don't know what's next for this rig. Half of me wants to take some nice photos (there's a park nearby with a HUGE American Flag that always seems to be catching wind) and throw it up on CL/Marketplace for a couple grand and see if it flies. The other half of me... I've got a sweet running S10 Blazer that's been keeping my mind off of whatever I'm going through right now, and it's bringing some joy, and is cheaper than therapy. Maybe I'll keep it around for a little while. However, this is my 5th vehicle, just for me. 4 is really my limit, but they are not junk, so need very little attention. I don't know...there's a point where it's just too much and I don't see owning this truck long term. But I solved its major problem, got it running, so I'm going to stick a feather in my cap for now.   Sometimes we just need to get our hands dirty and fix something in the physical world to gain some satisfaction.
    • Happy 4th of July! Be safe out there tonight     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...