Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Here It Is..I would definitely recommend bilstein 5100 for the rear. and it still fits in my garage as well

post-149492-0-02303700-1448064222_thumb.png

post-149492-0-02303700-1448064222_thumb.png

post-149492-0-02303700-1448064222_thumb.png

post-149492-0-02303700-1448064222_thumb.png

Edited by Mtxkidd
  • Like 2
Posted

this is what I'm talking about, badass [emoji106]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You guys need fender flares :pimp:

Posted

I don't have 3:08 but do have 3:42 and I can say if there is a difference I can't tell. Drives the same to me as it did before. Maybe if towing a difference could be noticed.

I have the 3.42 gears but I was just wondering the answer to this question myself. Hopefully someone will chime in.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Mtx kidd which 5 inch lift did you go with the bracket or the knuckle lift. Also are you running bilsteins in just the rear?

Edited by mrhonestlyinsane
Posted (edited)

I don't have 3:08 but do have 3:42 and I can say if there is a difference I can't tell. Drives the same to me as it did before. Maybe if towing a difference could be noticed.

 

Good point.

 

I've noticed the same thing. I've recently driven trucks with 35" tires that have 3.42 (5.3L 6 speed) gears and 3.23 (6.2L 8 speed) gears and under normal acceleration/driving there was little difference in the way they drove. When driving them under mid to hard acceleration, the difference was noticeable (as expected) but not alarming or unacceptable IMO. They still got the job done easily and were still fun to drive.

 

Let me also clarify, I don't drive trucks like a "bat-outta-hell" or "like I stole it" either. 90-95% of my driving is under normal acceleration. With that said, I wouldn't hesitate to add a lift & 35's" to a 3.42 5.3L or 3.23 6.2L and leave the gears as they are.

Edited by Front Runner
  • Like 1
Posted

You guys need fender flares :pimp:

im not a big fan of fender flares, just not my thing,

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Sorry for late response guys..It's the Knuckle kit and I'm only running the bilsteins in the rear...still have the factory ranchos up front...

Posted

Not to thread jack, but I guess I'm in between the leveled and suspension lift threads from a height perspective. I went with the 2.5" level + 1.5" Body Lift and have a total of $240 in 4"s of lift. Install was easy, retains warranty (at least according to my dealer), and is reversible unlike cutting up the crossmember for a full suspension lift. Can't go wrong with this setup in my opinion.

 

20140318_194657_RichtoneHDR_zpsn3hz79tl.

 

20140321_172139_RichtoneHDR_zpsbdq0kk7l.

I still have not found a reply on the ride quality with this set up. I already have the 2.5 level on the same truck. I also wanted to keep the stock ride quality. Will the body lift make it ride like crap or should I just stay with what I have. I'll be adding some 275/60/20 Nitto terra grapplers or 295/60/20. I would love the to do the CK158 22" wheels but I cant get a Nitto terra grappler in a 285/50/22 or even a 295/50/22. I have 3.42 gears with the 5.3. Need help here.

Posted

From what I've read, I don't believe that a body lift will have any affect on ride quality. My understanding is that ride quality falls under the suspension category.

  • Like 1
Posted

I still have not found a reply on the ride quality with this set up. I already have the 2.5 level on the same truck. I also wanted to keep the stock ride quality. Will the body lift make it ride like crap or should I just stay with what I have. I'll be adding some 275/60/20 Nitto terra grapplers or 295/60/20. I would love the to do the CK158 22" wheels but I cant get a Nitto terra grappler in a 285/50/22 or even a 295/50/22. I have 3.42 gears with the 5.3. Need help here.

The body lift won't change the ride I have the 1.5 zone and 2.5rc. The 2.5 made a slight difference and the E rated larger tires makes it a little more rough
  • Like 1
Posted

I still have not found a reply on the ride quality with this set up. I already have the 2.5 level on the same truck. I also wanted to keep the stock ride quality. Will the body lift make it ride like crap or should I just stay with what I have. I'll be adding some 275/60/20 Nitto terra grapplers or 295/60/20. I would love the to do the CK158 22" wheels but I cant get a Nitto terra grappler in a 285/50/22 or even a 295/50/22. I have 3.42 gears with the 5.3. Need help here.

The 1.5" body lift isn't going to change the ride. It will be the same as it is now with the level.

 

If you are on stock 20s go with the 295/60 if you add the body lift.

 

If you want 22s and no body lift, the terra grappler is available in 285/50/22. If you do the body lift there is also a slightly taller 285/55/22.

  • Like 1
Posted

The 1.5" body lift isn't going to change the ride. It will be the same as it is now with the level.

If you are on stock 20s go with the 295/60 if you add the body lift.

If you want 22s and no body lift, the terra grappler is available in 285/50/22. If you do the body lift there is also a slightly taller 285/55/22.

The 1.5" body lift isn't going to change the ride. It will be the same as it is now with the level.

If you are on stock 20s go with the 295/60 if you add the body lift.

If you want 22s and no body lift, the terra grappler is available in 285/50/22. If you do the body lift there is also a slightly taller 285/55/22.

That's perfect thanks for the help. That's what I needed to know.
Posted

Got a question guys I've got a 5 inch lift and 34s...I am about to get a extra tire for my factory 20 so I can have a full size spare..how big of a spare can fit the spare tire location...what have you guys been able to fit in there..?..looks like ill have the room but curios as to what you guys have done in these cases

Posted

Anyone running the Zone 4.5" that can take some pictures at different angles next to a stock height silverado? I was dead set on the Zone 6.5" and when i was passing my local dealership i saw they had a 2015 CC with a Pro Comp 6" lift.

 

I ended up test driving it and loved it. It was a lot taller in person than i thought. Pictures don't really do these trucks justice! The 6" was badass, but the dealer didn't have steps on it so it was different having to put some effort into getting up there! LOL (Im 5'-06") I loved the lift, however I'm now thinking that the 4.5" might be better suited for me, but i can't decide without seeing one in person.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,615 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...