Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

795094faf6c4519c88ee6c6e0eef9e08.jpg1c2f406c8371e1980f093ef002d66a44.jpg

 

New to the forum here is my newly lifted Silverado

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sweet! What's the setup?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Sweet! What's the setup?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

9" McGaughys (powder coated)

1.5" BL

22x14 American force

37 Toyos

When I get back in town will be getting everything painted to match and other small things

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Quick question guys? Can I add a 3" body lift to the Fabtech 6" lift in order to fit 37" tires?

I would think so. Will probably depend on your offset though. I have a 10" lift and my 38s fit fine wth no rubbing whatsoever.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6+

Posted

I don't see a problem with a 12.5" wide tire but if you are going with a 22x14 wheel set up then yes I can see there still being some rubbing. Just do a little trimming and you'll be fine.

Posted

Just read the thread where owners of lifted trucks and bigger tires were having issues with stabilitrac. I noticed (could've missed something though) that owners with rough country, BDS, and custom lifts had these issues and that the alignment / possibly the stabilitrac sensor wires were pinched/stretched were the most likely causes. One owner contacted Rocky Ridge and RR felt it was stretched sensor wires causing the problems. Others seem to have corrected the issue by having their truck aligned properly.

 

I posed the question in that thread and I'll pose it here also because many different types of lift makes are represented here; are Pro Comp 6" lift owners having an issue with stabilitrac?

I've had no issues with my Pro Comp 6" lift and the stabilitrac system. Just rolled 3,000 miles so time will tell I guess.

Posted

2015 with 10 inch Bulletproof lift and 38x13.5 inch tires:

 

deo2s6.jpg

 

w1a1wk.jpg

 

k2cu9h.jpg

 

1zq97o2.jpg

 

kdlpig.jpg

 

 

 

 

Those shocks rode really stiff. The fillings in my teeth were rattling out. So I upgraded my shocks to the Icon Reservoir shocks which are an option with the Bulletproof lift. The new ride is like night and day. My wife and kids will finally ride with me again.

 

 

 

28hpthg.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I've had no issues with my Pro Comp 6" lift and the stabilitrac system. Just rolled 3,000 miles so time will tell I guess.

If you've had no issues in 3000 miles, chances are that you won't have any with stabilitrac simply due to the lift installation. From what I've read, stabilitrac issues surface, in most cases, immediately after lift installation.

 

Did you have your truck/speedometer, etc tuned after the lift was installed or is your programming completely stock?

Edited by Front Runner
Posted

If you've had no issues in 3000 miles, chances are that you won't have any with stabilitrac simply due to the lift installation. From what I've read, stabilitrac issues surface, in most cases, immediately after lift installation.

 

Did you have your truck/speedometer, etc tuned after the lift was installed or is your programming completely stock?

Posted (edited)

 

If you've had no issues in 3000 miles, chances are that you won't have any with stabilitrac simply due to the lift installation. From what I've read, stabilitrac issues surface, in most cases, immediately after lift installation.

 

Did you have your truck/speedometer, etc tuned after the lift was installed or is your programming completely stock?

Yes, the speedometer was calibrated with a hyper tech programmer the same day the lift kit, wheels, & tires were added. Edited by Fireman_4_Life
Posted

Yes, the speedometer was calibrated with a hyper tech programmer the same day the lift kit, wheels, & tires were added.

Okay, so no other tuning besides the speedometer?

Posted

Okay, so no other tuning besides the speedometer?

No tuning currently other than having the speedometer calibrated with the hypertech. No issues what so ever. Currently in the market and researching custom tunes. Narrowed down to BlackBear performance or possibly a Diablew custom tune.
Posted

No tuning currently other than having the speedometer calibrated with the hypertech. No issues what so ever. Currently in the market and researching custom tunes. Narrowed down to BlackBear performance or possibly a Diablew custom tune.

 

Lew for the win!

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm looking at getting the 3.5" suspension lift kit from RC and I want to run a 305/55r20 with the stock rims. Just curious if any one is running a similar setup or if I would be able to fit that tire without cutting anything and it not rub. Thanks

Posted

No tuning currently other than having the speedometer calibrated with the hypertech. No issues what so ever. Currently in the market and researching custom tunes.

Narrowed down to BlackBear performance or possibly a Diablew custom tune.

Okay. Thanks.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...