Jump to content

Touchy throttle - 2013 1500


Recommended Posts

Posted

The engine running slightly rough upon being cold started is pretty normal. Engines don't run properly until the combustion chamber is up to temp..until then you get a rough, incomplete burn of the air / fuel ratio. If it does it more than 1-2 minutes I'd say take to the dealer for warranty work. Otherwise, I wouldn't worry about it.

 

Thanks and I agree.

 

I've had my hands on dozens of LS based motors ... from stock to stripped for racing ... this has been my first experience with one acting this way.

Posted

I find my head snapping back and forth, unintentionally, quite a bit in my 6.2. Scared to get a tune though, because it already sounds like my motor is gonna blow up at 13,000 km

Posted

I find my head snapping back and forth, unintentionally, quite a bit in my 6.2. Scared to get a tune though, because it already sounds like my motor is gonna blow up at 13,000 km

Tuning would probly help matters, a well built conservative tune is healthier than stock. That's IF it's well built, lots of Craigslist tuners out these days who don't have a clue.

Posted

Tuning would probly help matters, a well built conservative tune is healthier than stock. That's IF it's well built, lots of Craigslist tuners out these days who don't have a clue.

Oh it's gonna be Blackbear or nothing. He did my last truck and it was amazing. I'd almost like to see what Justin says about my pre tune scan, Curious if the data would tell him anything about the noise I'm hearing

Posted

Well here is update, When my truck had the stock intake tube on it had a rough idle then had the issue with the Airraid tube but fixed that and still had the rough idle. Which brings us to today, I installed my BB tune and the rough idle went away!!! Runs so much nicer now.

Posted

Lifters or wristpins might show as false knock. Don't be like the poor sap in New Brunswick like on another forum I am on. The dealers blew him off forever until one agreed something wasn't right on his 2011 6.2.. and they diagnosed it as wristpin noise on teardown. Instead of putting a new engine in they decided to rebuild it in house... okay whatever. He gets it back and it leaks oil bad... two or three return visits and no avail. Posts a pic on the forum from under the truck as its concentrated at the pan rail but the pan and block are supposedly good as is the gasket as the dealer changed it a couple times...... First thing myself and one or two others notice from the pic... well the passenger side of the block is missing 3 of the 5 main cap crossbolts... yep. I told him to light the truck on fire and ghost ride it into the showroom of the dealership.... or in reality.. just sell the damn thing. If they forgot those bolts and were too dumb to find it after the fact what else did they screw up.

 

Just sell your truck already lol.

 

Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk 2

 

Posted

I've had the privilege of piloting my share of radical, cammed up LS vehicles.

I know the difference between compression and cam bump and dropping a cylinder.

 

I'm now feeling the cylinder drop while at NOT, waiting for a light to change.

 

Throttle response is slow to respond and then like a switch comes on.

 

I put the trans in "M" and go to 3rd gear.

From a slow roll, I mash the throttle and the power is not a smooth ramp through the RPM range.

If you have ever ridden a big bore two-stroke dirt bike. the power feels amazingly like that.

 

The power ramps, plateaus and then ramps and then plateaus ...

 

No obvious air leaks post MAF (no unmetered air in other words)

 

I've fallen victim to an AICM and it doesn't act like that. It does, sorta act like a bad MAP sensor, though.

I own a Scan Gauge 2 that I used to diagnose fueling problems on a PSD.

 

Can I use on the 6.2? OBD2 is OBD2, right?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...