Front Brakes

KMGZ400 · July 15, 2013

If his rotors are that warped that he can feel the shimmy, he should (in my opinion) replace the pads at the time of the rotor installation. The rotor warpage probably wore down the pads unevenly.

By replacing the brake pads with the rotors, he can "mate" them together properly per the manufacturers instructions.

JMHO

ohh, my bad, i read the post quickly and just assumed he meant he felt it in the steering wheel.

Bassboats · July 15, 2013

I went through two sets of OE front rotors that warped before changing over to SSBC rotors/calipers front and converted drums to SSBC discs in rear on my 2011 Sierra 1500. No more brake problems. Expensive upgrade--but one that eliminates brake problems when towing boats and trailers where heat build up is a real issue at times.

TahoeL9H · July 15, 2013

I run the EBC Ultimax Rotors & EBC Green Stuff pads on my NNBS GMC Sierra 1500, 4WD .. $350 from EBCROTORS.COM

They call it a Stage 4 Kit..

I tow up to 10,000 lbs, trailer has brakes, and also put a lot of highway miles on..

No problems so far..

TahoeL9H

rudyb · July 15, 2013

How do the stainless lines help? Also, the slotted rotors will reduce heat, correct?

Gurrzt · July 15, 2013

How do the stainless lines help? Also, the slotted rotors will reduce heat, correct?

SS braided hoses will firm up your brake pedal, there is little to no flexing in the hoses, they will last a lifetime, and they are rated @ 300 psi.

They are very well constructed, with upgraded stainless banjo fittings, and thicker washers.

sierra09ny · July 15, 2013

I have a 09 sierra 1500 and do a lot of towing heavy and light with trailers equipped with brakes and none. The rotors were warped on my truck ,just swapped out for a pair of slotted and cross drilled with pads and anight and day differnce with the way it stops all together.I used power stop rotors and pads,EBC was nice but a little heavier on my wallet at the moment ..

alvocado · July 16, 2013

I wasn't towing but I'll share some brake issues from a trip last week that may be related. While driving through the adirondacks in NY, I experienced noticeable pulsation through the steering wheel after lengthy brake applications in extended downhills. I have a 2011 Yukon with stock brakes and 30k miles. There was no previous pulsation and plenty of life on both pad and rotor. I'm sure there was heat build up due to the steep elevation change and steady brake application but I never experienced this with past Yukons, especially with low mileage on the brake system. I actually became a little concerned about brake fade and/or failure since the pulsation was so noticeable. There has been no pulsation with routine driving since.

Hrocks · July 17, 2013

demech23 I used to be an instructor at high performance driving schools and ran into many guys that had brake issues. I ran a C4 Corvette that was not exactly the lightest car in the world, and never had brake problems. (that was after I did have brake issues with a smaller, lighter rice burner...) There are a couple of things that you can do and and some things you shouldn't consider doing. I noticed that at least one of the members found out the hard way that certain brands of racing and high performance pads and rotors are not necessarily the "hot" set up. Aggressive racing pads only start working at much higher temperatures, while maybe effective they are NOT rotor friendly on the track, and certainly the absolute wrong set up for street and towing apps. Braided brake lines sound good, but trust me, you will never feel any benefit unless your OE lines are dry rotted and ready to blow.

I found that the absolute best pads for severe street and racing apps are Performance Friction. (I have NO affiliation whatsoever) They make many different compounds depending upon the application. I run the "highway" pads on my 2010 Tahoe. I swapped out perfectly good OE pads at about 15k. One of the keys to long pad and rotor wear is the "bedding in" process. (backed by feedback from PFC) My ritual for bedding in new pads, post installation is to take the vehicle to a remote location (in my case an industrial park at night) and make about 4-5 runs the car/truck up to about 50 MPH and do a sequence of hard decelerations, without actually stopping or locking up the brakes or introducing the ABS. (you might/will likely see and or smell the pads) I would then drive out in the country for about another 15 minutes without having to stop, allowing the components to fully cool. This did two things...1.) it "cured" the bonding agents in the pads (even though all the pad mfrs. say it's not necessary...off the record it's another story) 2.) it mated the pads to the particular set of rotors on the vehicle at that time. If using new/new rotors and pads (not recommended) it's absolutely mandatory unless you want to trash a brand new set of rotors. New cast iron rotors need to be stress relieved, and the controlled heating/cooling cycle will accomplish that. The best thing is to only use "new/old", but realizing many change out both at the same time, this process will definitely increase rotor life. (BTW, many of the more aggressive pads from some of the manufacturers will eat rotors regardless of this process.)

Also, know that brake fluid is hygroscopic--it attracts moisture. On my race cars I used to purge the brake fluid a couple of times/season. (that means twice in about 1500-2,000 miles) On my street vehicles I go about two years. Many people never change out their brake fluid and have "religious" experience while descending a long hill on a windy country road only to get a real mushy brake pedal, or worse, have the pedal go to the floor because they boiled their brake fluid. (actually they boiled the water that accumulated in the brake fluid, which can be from 2 to 5%!)

Lastly, don't waste your money on drilled rotors. Real race rotors that appear to be "drilled" are actually cast with the holes in them, and then the holes are chamfered. I've seen the effect and aftermath of so-called "high performance" drilled rotors at full speed. I was passing a M3 BMW deep down the backstraight at Mid-Ohio when the Bimmer's right rear rotor blew the wheel and half shaft off the car at well over 100 MPH...thank goodness I was just clear. Fortunately, the car didn't roll, but the undercarriage was pretty screwed up.

Slotted rotor only act as a cheese grater...great for keeping them de-glazed on a race track, but good for just eating pads on the street.

Hope this is of value...

demech23 · July 17, 2013

I called Russel yesterday and they don't carry a stainless steel brake line kit for the nnbs yet (you'd think they would of had a kit since the body change was in 07). I have come across of a fair amout on complaints online about Hawk brakes being fairly loud, so yesterday after talking to EBC and reading numberous reviews I was ready to purchase their green supreme pads and gd3 sport rotors. However, while pricing them around one vendor said that the pads would fit, another said it wouldn't, and another even said that they were discontinued. As a result, I ended up holding off due to the inconsustencies in product knowledge and the search continues. The weird thing is that the pulsation has seemed to go away and is almost not even noticable now.

I have actually changed my brake fluid twice already. I did the first fluid change spring of 2012 during regular maintenance, I even adjusted the rear drums at that time, and it soon after turned real dark and test bad on the strips during that winter so I changed it again and its been fine since.

alvocado · July 19, 2013

Also, know that brake fluid is hygroscopic--it attracts moisture. On my race cars I used to purge the brake fluid a couple of times/season. (that means twice in about 1500-2,000 miles) On my street vehicles I go about two years. Many people never change out their brake fluid and have "religious" experience while descending a long hill on a windy country road only to get a real mushy brake pedal, or worse, have the pedal go to the floor because they boiled their brake fluid. (actually they boiled the water that accumulated in the brake fluid, which can be from 2 to 5%!)

Lastly, don't waste your money on drilled rotors. Real race rotors that appear to be "drilled" are actually cast with the holes in them, and then the holes are chamfered. I've seen the effect and aftermath of so-called "high performance" drilled rotors at full speed. I was passing a M3 BMW deep down the backstraight at Mid-Ohio when the Bimmer's right rear rotor blew the wheel and half shaft off the car at well over 100 MPH...thank goodness I was just clear. Fortunately, the car didn't roll, but the undercarriage was pretty screwed up.

Slotted rotor only act as a cheese grater...great for keeping them de-glazed on a race track, but good for just eating pads on the street.

Hope this is of value..."

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Two great points here. I'm shocked that American manufacturers don't recommend brake fluid flushes since brake fluid is hygroscopic. German cars call for 2 year changes regardless of mileage and you never see brake system components rusting from the inside out.

Drilled rotors are a complete waste of money for everyday use. Any supposed benefit from heat dissipation is offset by reduced performance and risk of cracks. Brakes work from friction. More surface to surface contact generates more friction. Unless folks are running their trucks on a track and experiencing brake fade, drilled rotors are not needed.

nakedicarus · July 19, 2013

GMT900 brakes are worth crap. I've had to replace the pads on my truck every 8000-12000 miles since new. I've got 67,000 miles and have gone through about 5-6 sets of pads and a set of rotors.

tbhuge · July 20, 2013

I had hawk pads and power slot rotors on my last truck, 1997 s10 2wd. No towing ever. They stopped good but brake dust was horrible.

TahoeL9H · August 31, 2013

Well, it seems as if I spoke too soon!!

On July 15, I posted that I had upgraded to the EBC Ultimax Rotors & Greenstuff pads with no problems...

Now I have a pulsation that sometimes shakes the whole truck.. so the other day, pulled rotors & pads, took the rotors to a machine shop I know well..The rotors had a .020 run out so they turned them.. re installed everything, drove it around with very light braking for a while,

I then went through the whole "Bedding In" process which EBC recommended.. Crappolla!! they pulsate like crazy.

I am going to pull it down again, this time I will check bearing hubs and all suspension parts more closely.. But I have to tell you I am becoming more & more unimpressed with the EBC stuff.. I have called them twice & they just say "Go through the bedding in process AGAIN"

This is my work truck & I drive a lot of highway miles, oilfield roads etc as well as pull up to 10,000 lbs... So it must work.. I was going to trade it in, Sierra 1500 SLE Z71, 4WD with VHT towing package, but I can't see spending $45,000 for a new truck..

The only good part is that I will have to drive the Tahoe L9H until I figure this out..

Any one have any insight??

Thanks,

TahoeL9H

kstruckcountry · August 31, 2013

I would definitely try different rotors.

The problem I've had with my EBC pads is the dust, and they are greenstuff which I thought was supposed to not dust much. I am very light on the brakes. They are quiet and stop very well though.

Duronimal · September 5, 2013

I've seen many sets of rotors tossed in the trash because drivers insist that they were warped - when they were not. During intense braking, pad material can be unevenly transferred to the rotor, causing a pedal pulsation. It's why brake manufacturers insist on the proper 'bedding' technique. I'm sure most vehicles rolling off the showroom floor are not up to snuff either.

Of course that doesn't mean there aren't crappy rotors out there, but I would try turning them before dumping them. $.02