Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

295/55/20 no rub. Toyo MT. I'll upload some more pictures tonight

Following. Want to see the look

Posted

15d13a1df7841d5d10bc9e20cdf1e325.jpg06ed3407fc0e74a498ec42dd252a4a80.jpg74c980b53b5794d374a85729b13952e9.jpg4baeb1d33f5f28fa00a0f1e06abdc203.jpg

Totally sick and jealous! Can you share your specs? Kit, offset and so on

  • Like 1
Posted

2.5 Rough Country lift. 295/55/20 Toyo MT tires. Fuel Maverick wheels 20 inch with +20 offset

Would you say there's room for 305/55/20? Or do you think 295/55/20 is pushing it? I assume there was also no trimming involved?

Posted

I don't know his name but a guy a few post before mine with the same set up on a white gmc did 305s. Ask him. ..all I know is I have no rubbing at full lock and they look sick.

Posted

I don't know his name but a guy a few post before mine with the same set up on a white gmc did 305s. Ask him. ..all I know is I have no rubbing at full lock and they look sick.

Thanks bro. Your truck is definitely on point. I'll look this other cat up

Posted

Anyone added rancho quicklift or bilstein ride height? I have 2" rough country and when I hit bumps it feels like it bounces. I'm looking for a more secure leveling/lift kit that rides smooth while towing or off roading? Any suggestions

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Posted

Has anyone had both a rough country and readylift leveling kit? I'm doing research on which is a better one to install. I was all for a Rough Country until I was thinking about how the spacer block is like some type of reinforced plastic. Where ReadyLift has the aluminum 2 piece set. Thanks for the suggestions. The trucks on this thread are amazing and I hope to get mine done soon. :cool:

Posted

My kit was a 2.5 lift. .5 rubber spacer on tip and the bottom was a u shaped lift that takes the shock and moves it up 2inch. I have a YouTube video posted up.

Btw it rides great with this set up....

  • Like 1
Posted

f20fc15affb35fe9eb6848fc512db7cc.jpgd258adc0d99f1542d280f1d6d58ff7ac.jpg9c67fcd2ae0b1bb27bf0a4bd951f69d3.jpgc17fcccf059937a6c16e1e4254254915.jpg1d13fee93945c95b77dac2490f9cc0b7.jpg

Nice truck man, I'm really diggin' your setup! I want some aftermarket wheels but can't find the hear to part with the stock chrome 20's.

 

I couldn't help but notice most of the trucks on here are perfectly leveled or so it looks that way. Mine doesn't sit like that and I still can't figure out why. Maybe I installed the kit incorrectly? I also have a 2.5" RC kit but it doesn't sit like this one does. I didn't install the rear block because I figured it's already not leveled why would I raise the rear even more? I also still have this noise my kits making and can't figure out what it is. Makes a really loud "squeak" sound when I hit any type of bump and occasionally when I put the truck in reverse it'll make a pop sound, when I turn the wheel all the way to the left in drive and go forward it makes a really loud pop sound. Any ideas guys?

  • Like 1
Posted

I had mine installed at a shop. They use a ton of grease on the .5 spacer on top...I know this because I went to look inside and my hand was covered in a thick black grease (truck is only 2 weeks old) as far as the popping have you re-torqued the level kit? I drove mine for 300 miles and has the same thing and once they went over the level kit and tighten everything up it went away. I have 600 miles on my lift with no noise. I'll measure tonight but before the new tires i was at 39 inch up front and in rear to to the center wheel well.

I am at no means a mechanic too. So wtf do I know... just stating my experience

e966d1c9294b0e5b9b540e7ee5b8d73e.jpg

 

Filtered

Posted

Nice truck man, I'm really diggin' your setup! I want some aftermarket wheels but can't find the hear to part with the stock chrome 20's.

 

I couldn't help but notice most of the trucks on here are perfectly leveled or so it looks that way. Mine doesn't sit like that and I still can't figure out why. Maybe I installed the kit incorrectly? I also have a 2.5" RC kit but it doesn't sit like this one does. I didn't install the rear block because I figured it's already not leveled why would I raise the rear even more? I also still have this noise my kits making and can't figure out what it is. Makes a really loud "squeak" sound when I hit any type of bump and occasionally when I put the truck in reverse it'll make a pop sound, when I turn the wheel all the way to the left in drive and go forward it makes a really loud pop sound. Any ideas guys?

Make sure everything is torqued correctly and also check to see if the lower bolt is hitting your drive shaft, check both sides.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 965 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...