Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just bought a 2014 1500 and am looking at putting the RC 2.5 leveling lift kit on it but they ask if the factory control arms are aluminum or steel. From the multiple dealerships I've called they have all said that they are cast iron. I know there are a ton of ppl on here with this kit installed so any help would be appreciated.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just bought a 2014 1500 and am looking at putting the RC 2.5 leveling lift kit on it but they ask if the factory control arms are aluminum or steel. From the multiple dealerships I've called they have all said that they are cast iron. I know there are a ton of ppl on here with this kit installed so any help would be appreciated.

Black arms are steel

 

Sliver are aluminum

  • Like 1
Posted

Would also be awesome if a company would make de-badged replicas of the new 17" Ram Rebel wheels. I like them.

Dodge-Ram_1500_Rebel_2015_1600x1200_wall

Posted

Would also be awesome if a company would make de-badged replicas of the new 17" Ram Rebel wheels. I like them.

Dodge-Ram_1500_Rebel_2015_1600x1200_wall

Similar characteristics of an all terrain wheel. Only ugly.
  • Like 3
Posted

I didn't realize this was leveling kits, thought it was the tire wheels thread.

 

I love the all terrain rims. Just want smaller rims. 17" is perfect.

Posted

Not sure if it's been mentioned or not, but I went with the 2.5" motofab (eBay) upper strut spacer. Install was straight forward and everything fit well. With the 2.5" you don't have to cut the factory strut mounting bolts - so I can put it back stock later if I decide to.

 

d56Cq1H.jpg

Posted

Not sure if it's been mentioned or not, but I went with the 2.5" motofab (eBay) upper strut spacer. Install was straight forward and everything fit well. With the 2.5" you don't have to cut the factory strut mounting bolts - so I can put it back stock later if I decide to.

 

d56Cq1H.jpg

Which kit do you have to cut bolts on??
Posted

I think I had read (maybe on here?) that the 2" upper strut spacers require you to trim down the factory mounting bolts. Heresay, obviously, but the 2.5" spacer installed without any trouble.

 

Before you speculate and cause confusion...with a 2" top spacer yes you have to trim the studs on the shock mount top hat. They aren't trimmed to the point you "can't go back to stock". There are plenty of threads left to properly secure the strut mount back after removing the spacer.

Posted

 

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

 

 

My 2014 LT Crew 4X4 has the RC 2 1/2" level/lift kit with complete install and I will agree that the front end seems stiffer and that the back seems mushy. I was thinking of trying the Rancho shocks on the rear of my LT to see if that would change (stiffen) things in the rear. I know it would effect the ride quality...

I have also given some thought to pulling out the upper spacer to reduce it to a 2" level kit since it's .5" and only gives you .5" of lift. Keep us informed.

 

 

I posted this in another thread regarding issues with the Denali and it's MagneRide and a levelling kit.

 

This is the thread:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168618-leveling-kit-for-2015-sierra-denali-magnetic-ride/

 

 

Front sensors are not relocated, no. I drew these images up to hopefully explain it better.

 

Here's the stock setup, which remains the same with my lift. In both situations, the upper control arm does not have it's angle changed, as with a full lift the spindles are changed to longer ones and the shocks are extended down.

 

ljEqIKW.png

 

Now when you add a spacer above the coil, you cause it to reach lower, pushing the lower control arm down and bringing the front with it, as they're connecte with balljoints at the spindle. This lowering of the upper control arm negatively adjusts the magneride sensor.

 

Note the blue spacer added into the mix and the altered angles. Now the shocks are being energized, as the truck thinks its bottoming out, all the time.

 

Oam3oEZ.png

 

A correct install would lower the sensor location or lengthen the linkage rod to compensate for the altered geometry.

Posted

My update: RC 2.5, Larger rear Block from RC and just had GY Durtrac 275/65R20's installed. Not rubs just had to up back inner liner with cable tie.

Beauty. That's exactly what I want to do with my crew cab standard box.

 

How do you like the setup after all this time.

Posted

I am surprised this hasn't been brought up to much yet but with the new bilstein adjustable and rancho loaded front shocks out, has anyone been using these at there stock height setting WITH a level of any size? Is there any limitations on doing this? I have a 2.5 rough country level with 285/60/20 LT duratracs and the ride isn't great after putting these on. Could be the 10 ply tires too. But adding these upgraded shocks should defiantly help me out, theoretically.. if it isn't going to damage the shock or anything else some how. I haven't heard of anyone doing this but it makes sense to me. Any insight on this would be great. I will also be keeping an eye open on other threads and let you guys know. Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 3,021 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...