Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

PowderRiver Let'rBuck Enthusiast

PowderRiver Let'rBuck

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 2014 1500 and am looking at putting the RC 2.5 leveling lift kit on it but they ask if the factory control arms are aluminum or steel. From the multiple dealerships I've called they have all said that they are cast iron. I know there are a ton of ppl on here with this kit installed so any help would be appreciated.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

AdamC93 Enthusiast

AdamC93

Posted
Posted

I just bought a 2014 1500 and am looking at putting the RC 2.5 leveling lift kit on it but they ask if the factory control arms are aluminum or steel. From the multiple dealerships I've called they have all said that they are cast iron. I know there are a ton of ppl on here with this kit installed so any help would be appreciated.

Black arms are steel

 

Sliver are aluminum

  • Like 1
5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

Would also be awesome if a company would make de-badged replicas of the new 17" Ram Rebel wheels. I like them.

Dodge-Ram_1500_Rebel_2015_1600x1200_wall

Yamiryder Enthusiast

Yamiryder

Posted
Posted

Would also be awesome if a company would make de-badged replicas of the new 17" Ram Rebel wheels. I like them.

Dodge-Ram_1500_Rebel_2015_1600x1200_wall

Similar characteristics of an all terrain wheel. Only ugly.
  • Like 3
5RWill Enthusiast

5RWill

Posted
Posted

I didn't realize this was leveling kits, thought it was the tire wheels thread.

 

I love the all terrain rims. Just want smaller rims. 17" is perfect.

dollarbeernight Enthusiast

dollarbeernight

Posted
Posted

Not sure if it's been mentioned or not, but I went with the 2.5" motofab (eBay) upper strut spacer. Install was straight forward and everything fit well. With the 2.5" you don't have to cut the factory strut mounting bolts - so I can put it back stock later if I decide to.

 

d56Cq1H.jpg

Yamiryder Enthusiast

Yamiryder

Posted
Posted

Not sure if it's been mentioned or not, but I went with the 2.5" motofab (eBay) upper strut spacer. Install was straight forward and everything fit well. With the 2.5" you don't have to cut the factory strut mounting bolts - so I can put it back stock later if I decide to.

 

d56Cq1H.jpg

Which kit do you have to cut bolts on??
baggedlvintegra Enthusiast

baggedlvintegra

Posted
Posted

I think I had read (maybe on here?) that the 2" upper strut spacers require you to trim down the factory mounting bolts. Heresay, obviously, but the 2.5" spacer installed without any trouble.

 

Before you speculate and cause confusion...with a 2" top spacer yes you have to trim the studs on the shock mount top hat. They aren't trimmed to the point you "can't go back to stock". There are plenty of threads left to properly secure the strut mount back after removing the spacer.

Dangerdick Enthusiast

Dangerdick

Posted
Posted

 

I have a 2015 Sierra Denali and I just put the 2.5" RC level kit on the front. I didn't add the rear block because it sits almost perfectly level now. The problem I have is that it rides like a dump truck now. The front is really tight and bouncy. It has been aligned professionally and everything but the ride is definitely worse than I had anticipated. Anyone else have this problem? The truck does have the factory 22" wheels and the side wall of the tire is pretty low profile but this has me thinking of taking it off completely. Any suggestions because Rough Country said they had never heard of this before?!

 

 

My 2014 LT Crew 4X4 has the RC 2 1/2" level/lift kit with complete install and I will agree that the front end seems stiffer and that the back seems mushy. I was thinking of trying the Rancho shocks on the rear of my LT to see if that would change (stiffen) things in the rear. I know it would effect the ride quality...

I have also given some thought to pulling out the upper spacer to reduce it to a 2" level kit since it's .5" and only gives you .5" of lift. Keep us informed.

 

 

I posted this in another thread regarding issues with the Denali and it's MagneRide and a levelling kit.

 

This is the thread:

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168618-leveling-kit-for-2015-sierra-denali-magnetic-ride/

 

 

Front sensors are not relocated, no. I drew these images up to hopefully explain it better.

 

Here's the stock setup, which remains the same with my lift. In both situations, the upper control arm does not have it's angle changed, as with a full lift the spindles are changed to longer ones and the shocks are extended down.

 

ljEqIKW.png

 

Now when you add a spacer above the coil, you cause it to reach lower, pushing the lower control arm down and bringing the front with it, as they're connecte with balljoints at the spindle. This lowering of the upper control arm negatively adjusts the magneride sensor.

 

Note the blue spacer added into the mix and the altered angles. Now the shocks are being energized, as the truck thinks its bottoming out, all the time.

 

Oam3oEZ.png

 

A correct install would lower the sensor location or lengthen the linkage rod to compensate for the altered geometry.

Dropsix Enthusiast

Dropsix

Posted
Posted

My update: RC 2.5, Larger rear Block from RC and just had GY Durtrac 275/65R20's installed. Not rubs just had to up back inner liner with cable tie.

Beauty. That's exactly what I want to do with my crew cab standard box.

 

How do you like the setup after all this time.

boone9 Enthusiast

boone9

Posted
Posted

I am surprised this hasn't been brought up to much yet but with the new bilstein adjustable and rancho loaded front shocks out, has anyone been using these at there stock height setting WITH a level of any size? Is there any limitations on doing this? I have a 2.5 rough country level with 285/60/20 LT duratracs and the ride isn't great after putting these on. Could be the 10 ply tires too. But adding these upgraded shocks should defiantly help me out, theoretically.. if it isn't going to damage the shock or anything else some how. I haven't heard of anyone doing this but it makes sense to me. Any insight on this would be great. I will also be keeping an eye open on other threads and let you guys know. Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 628 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • JakeD
      Tire fitment

      By JakeD · Posted

      Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • davester
      Tire fitment

      By davester · Posted

      I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...