Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My wheels are a 0 offset, tires are a 33x12.5r18. Not sure what the metric conversion is.

 

I get 0 rubbing, lots or room.

Really nice pictures, they look like they are straight out of a GM add.

 

Those tires look perfect on your truck, they fill the wheel wells nicely. Have you checked for rubbing at full wheel lock with the suspension compressed?

 

Anybody know if the 14-15 wheel wells are larger than the 07-13 GMT-900?

 

Also, what is the backspacing on the GM factory wheels? The only way to find out is for me to remove a tire and check one of the wheels on my truck.

 

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Posted

20x9 +27 = factory.

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

Silly question, are all tires that are sized in inches rather than metric, mud tires? Any A/T tires like this?

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Posted

Nando87. Do you have a pic down the side of the truck, how much do your tires stick outside the body of the truck? Looking into getting 33.5x12 on either 0 or +12 offset. Thanks in advance.

Posted

Really nice pictures, they look like they are straight out of a GM add.

 

Those tires look perfect on your truck, they fill the wheel wells nicely. Have you checked for rubbing at full wheel lock with the suspension compressed?

 

Anybody know if the 14-15 wheel wells are larger than the 07-13 GMT-900?

 

Also, what is the backspacing on the GM factory wheels? The only way to find out is for me to remove a tire and check one of the wheels on my truck.

 

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Thanks, appreciate the comments!

 

I have checked for rubbing at full lock, there is none and seems to be plenty of room when the suspension is compressed as well.

 

Yes, the wheel wells are larger on the 14+ trucks vs the GMT900's. I use to have one and couldn't fit these tires without a 3.5" lift.

 

The factory back spacing I believe is +25 or +35.

Posted

Silly question, are all tires that are sized in inches rather than metric, mud tires? Any A/T tires like this?

 

Sent from Tapatalk App - Samsung S6

Not a silly question, I've wondered my self before. But to answer you question in short, No, that's not how it works.

 

Usually the standard tire sizes will get you a wider tire, most metric tires don't go out to 12.5" wide BUT most metric tires will be taller when comparing comparable sizes. Example being, if you wanted to compare 33x12.50r18 tires to a metric size you would look at 305/65r18... However the metric tires will measure out to be 33.6x12r18, so you will end up with a taller tire but not as wide.

 

You would need to take this into account depending on the off-set you choose for your wheels, if you go with a negative offset you would want the skinnier tires to prevent rubbing if you don't have much lift.

 

Hopefully this helps.

Posted

Nando87. Do you have a pic down the side of the truck, how much do your tires stick outside the body of the truck? Looking into getting 33.5x12 on either 0 or +12 offset. Thanks in advance.

Here you go, these are not the best pics but will give you a good idea on how they sit.

 

They are about 1.5-2" outside of the fender, IMO a perfect look, I don't like when the tires are sucked in on these bigger trucks and to wide just throws crap all over the place.

DSC_0466_zpsapgvwihx.jpg

 

DSC_0453_zpstky9xbt5.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

I took some advice off here and went with the Rancho QuickLift front replacements for my 15 Sierra Z71 Crew Cab 4x4, part number #RS999901- I got them off Amazon for $320 delivered. Before, the rear fender was 39.5" and the front was 36". After, the rear is 39" and the front is 38", and the front of the cab is 17 3/4", and the rear of the cab is 18 1/4". I got right at exactly 2" lift up front. I'm still playing with the settings on the dampers, but I installed them last night in 3 hours. I could've done it in about half that if I could've found my 15mm deep socket...... 5 bolts each side removed, and the long bolt on the sway bar loosened on each side and it pops right off. Ride is at least as good as the stock fronts. I am going to swap out the rears to RS9000XL in the near future. I sure like how she's sitting now. I also need t ofind the time to drop her off to get the fronts tinted....

Level.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

I took some advice off here and went with the Rancho QuickLift front replacements for my 15 Sierra Z71 Crew Cab 4x4, part number #RS999901- I got them off Amazon for $320 delivered. Before, the rear fender was 39.5" and the front was 36". After, the rear is 39" and the front is 38", and the front of the cab is 17 3/4", and the rear of the cab is 18 1/4". I got right at exactly 2" lift up front. I'm still playing with the settings on the dampers, but I installed them last night in 3 hours. I could've done it in about half that if I could've found my 15mm deep socket...... 5 bolts each side removed, and the long bolt on the sway bar loosened on each side and it pops right off. Ride is at least as good as the stock fronts. I am going to swap out the rears to RS9000XL in the near future. I sure like how she's sitting now. I also need t ofind the time to drop her off to get the fronts tinted....

Level.jpg

 

Looks great! Are the Ranchos adjustable to different levels?

Posted

Nando, can we get a pic from behind the whole truck please to see how those tires look going down the road?

Thanks!

Posted

For those wondering how the bilsteins handle a little weight, here is a comparison pic with and without a little weight. I thought it would squat but it was minimal.

IMG_1520_zpszkdtiszo.jpg

873523A2-D57C-4C0D-A7BE-A340486C1D50_zps

  • Like 2
Posted

2015 GMC Sierra with an adjustable (.5"-2.5") leveling kit. We raised the front 2 1/4 to make it level. 20" Fuel Nutz with Nitto Terra Grappler 295/55/20 tires.

post-146458-0-95118200-1437682628_thumb.jpg

post-146458-0-50289000-1437682646_thumb.jpg

post-146458-0-95118200-1437682628_thumb.jpg

post-146458-0-50289000-1437682646_thumb.jpg

post-146458-0-95118200-1437682628_thumb.jpg

post-146458-0-50289000-1437682646_thumb.jpg

post-146458-0-95118200-1437682628_thumb.jpg

post-146458-0-50289000-1437682646_thumb.jpg

Posted

Nando, can we get a pic from behind the whole truck please to see how those tires look going down the road?

Thanks!

Not a problem, I'll try and get a good picture tonight and post.

Posted (edited)

Ready Lift, 2" Level.

 

285/65/18 BFG KO2's on Fuel Assault wheels. +18 offset.

 

Would I be able to fit 305's without rubbing? Or would I need to get a more negative wheel offset to make it work. I'm a little bummed, i was hoping the tires would stick out just a little bit more than they do now.

 

wheels%20033.jpg

 

wheels%20035.jpg

 

wheels%20038.jpg

 

Edited by zfromvan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
    • Looks nice. I still have my 2000, 1500. Bought a 2025, 1500 for retirement. Feels solid. These trucks have a bad rap on the internet. My brother has a `24 1500, 5.3 with 52,000 miles. No problems at all. Mine hasn`t either but mine`s only at 12,700 miles. Have seen some of these things with 100,000 miles with no problems.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...