Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Ok so I measured front center hub to rear center hub. Here's what I got.

 

Passenger side = 143"

Driver side = 144"

 

Definitely a difference. And here's a copy of my 4 wheel alignment report.

 

IMG_3849_zps9j5wcxjs.jpg

 

So now what? Seems off by a degree?

I put my kit on this weekend and after I got the rear together and on the ground I measured and mine was off about 3/4" back further on the passage side. There is a little play in the block pins, so I put that side back on a jack stand and loosened the U bolts, then I wrapped a ratchet strap from the front leaf spring mount around the axle (be sure to wrap under the brake lines that run along the axle and not over them) and pulled it forward and tightened the U bolts again. Put the truck back on the ground and measured again and everything is straight now, so you might wanna try that.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'm stumped dude. :dunno: Did the alignment shop offer any advice? At least your truck looks really good, lol

Nope no advice. Lol guy just said "yeah you were right it's off" he seemed lost too. My buddies High Country shifted worse than mine. Almost 2.5". He brought it to the dealer and they corrected it within ½". That's my next step.

Edited by cato
  • Like 1
Posted

I remember reading it somewhere. Anyone recall how to calculate fuel mpg with bigger tires?

Posted

I recently got a 2015 Sierra SLT Z71 and am looking to upgrade my tires. I've seen posts of people running 275/65R20 (34.1x10.8) on just a 2-2.5" leveling kit (supposedly with no rub). The tires I would like to run are 295/60R20 (33.9x11.6), but I've read that I would need to have a 4" lift to fit these with no rub. Even though the 275/65R20 are a tad taller, is it the width factor that comes into play with fitting the 295/60R20 on a 2.5" level. Any insight or experience with these sizes and combinations would be appreciated.

Posted

The tire size you listed should be a little over 1" wider, and less than 1/2" shorter than the 275/65's before being mounted.

 

Really depends on tire manufacturer because the actual size will vary. Some are true to size, many smaller, and some larger. The only way to know if they will fit is to physically measure the tires you plan on purchasing. Also be sure to measure a mounted tire with proper air pressure. The wheel width and offset should be considered and included in your measurements if possible.

Identical tires will actually have different measurements mounted on different wheels.

I would definitely get the exact measurements before ordering and finding out they don't properly fit.

 

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm leaning strongly towards Toys M/T's and plan on keeping the stock 20's if that helps with any information.

Posted

Hey bud! I had a little bit of rub at full lock, so I had to zip tie the felt back in the wheel well and now I have zero issues with rub. You will not be disappointed!

Now I'm just re confirming you said you were using the rough

Country 2.5 inch leveling kit and was running toyo mt's 275/65/r20 and didn't have any scrubbing after you adjusted your inner fender well? Even when flexing as in (tight places that causes the tire to be pushed into the fender well, like drive ways, and steep hills?)

Posted

Since they two sizes are basically the same height, is it just the width of the 295's that would prevent me from running them on just a 2.5" level? If i decided to go with the 4" lift, would i have any trouble with the 295/60's?

Posted

Traded my silver 2014 with 2.5rc and 295/60/20 for a red 2015. 2.5rc and 285/65/20 bfg ko2

Man, both of those set ups look great! Did you have any problems with either of them as far as rubbing or trimming, more specifically with the 295's?

Posted

The 295's rubbed finder liners and control arms. That is why I went to the 285 on this truck. I did zip tie the finder liners back and they don't rub at all.

Posted

Thanks for all the help. I just ordered the 0 offsets with 295 60s. I'm looking for a little of the tire to be outside fender well. Ill post some pics when they get here.

I'm patiently waiting to see how your setup works out. I'm debating wether to get 0 offset or like a +12. What wheels are you going with?

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'm patiently waiting to see how your setup works out. I'm debating wether to get 0 offset or like a +12. What wheels are you going with?

I went with Mayhem Rampage black and machined. They should be in tomorrow or Friday. Edited by woods8605
  • Like 1
Posted

I'm patiently waiting to see how your setup works out. I'm debating wether to get 0 offset or like a +12. What wheels are you going with?

post-148279-0-71912700-1443748350_thumb.jpghad very slight rub. Nothing worth trimming. Not even close to suspension or sway bar.

post-148279-0-71912700-1443748350_thumb.jpg

post-148279-0-71912700-1443748350_thumb.jpg

post-148279-0-71912700-1443748350_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm patiently waiting to see how your setup works out. I'm debating wether to get 0 offset or like a +12. What wheels are you going with?

post-148279-0-53348100-1443749120_thumb.jpgabout 1 inch of a 295 past the fender with 0 offset.

post-148279-0-53348100-1443749120_thumb.jpg

post-148279-0-53348100-1443749120_thumb.jpg

post-148279-0-53348100-1443749120_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...