Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

Truck looks great, did you have to any trimming or do you have any rubbing going on with the new setup. Looking at doing a similar setup on my truck.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

I have the very slightest rub in reverse at full lock. It touches the bottom fender corner trim piece oh so slightly. I'm

Not even going to bother with it.

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

mnm99 Enthusiast

mnm99

Posted
Posted

Theoretically you could, but you're going to bottom out your shocks a lot quicker since they're not extended travel shocks.

 

Upgrade to an extended/lifted version of the 5100 and you should be fine w/ aftermarket UCAs.

Your CV shafts won't like it. Everyone always talks about shocks and ball joints. The CV shafts are supposed to be level. Witham 2.5 or 3 inch take a look how off they are. Now turn your wheel and hit a big bump, they are at really bad angles.

obfirefighter22 Enthusiast

obfirefighter22

Posted
Posted (edited)

Man this thread has got a lot longer.

 

Question, I did the RC level on my 2015 that came with the blocks for the back and spacers that went above the coil over and spacer below strut. To me thinking about the geometry of everything it was perfect.

 

Fast forward to now, fixing to help a buddy do his ram. His assembly looks identical. Now rough country makes you compress the coil over and add the spacer there which seems a$$ backwards. Went to look at mine and also pull it up on their website. On the website they don't offer the same kit now. Is there a reason they changed it up? I'm sure y'all have spoken about it but there's 340+ pages in this thread now.

Edited by advancedrescue
Silveradoh Enthusiast

Silveradoh

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I was shopping around for a 2.5" leveling kit from RC for my 2017 Silverado 1500 and haven't come across anything but 2". Do they usually release them later than the 2" versions? Or do people have any recommendations in the same price range for a 2.5" leveling kit. I would like to get that little bit of extra clearance from the 2.5" if I can.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I was shopping around for a 2.5" leveling kit from RC for my 2017 Silverado 1500 and haven't come across anything but 2". Do they usually release them later than the 2" versions? Or do people have any recommendations in the same price range for a 2.5" leveling kit. I would like to get that little bit of extra clearance from the 2.5" if I can.

 

Thanks,

 

Bob

I just happened to see this and already have the page open. http://www.roughcountry.com/gm-leveling-lift-kit-1305-10.html

pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

Thank you! Don't know how I missed it, kept coming across the 2" kit.

Probably because they listed it under the suspension lift section instead of the level lift section.

  • Like 1
pbudde18 Enthusiast

pbudde18

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be putting on a set of 20x9 +1 with 305/55 's. For the level, I see everyone suggests sticking with a 2" as 2.5" causes some extreme angles. Is there any real difference between the Round spacers that go on top and the U shapped ones that go on bottom besides location and shape?

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

I'm going to be putting on a set of 20x9 +1 with 305/55 's. For the level, I see everyone suggests sticking with a 2" as 2.5" causes some extreme angles. Is there any real difference between the Round spacers that go on top and the U shapped ones that go on bottom besides location and shape?

2" level is that bottom "U" shape only. To get 2.5 they add a 1/2" spacer on top of the coil spring. Requires disassembly of the strut. My setup is in my sig, the extra 1/2" wasn't worth the hassle for me. My truck has almost exactly 1" of rake

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

to the guys whom have installed the 2.5" themselves, do you think its possible to just compress the spring while its on the truck and install the upper spacer? or does the entire strut have to be disassembled right down?

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

2" level is that bottom "U" shape only. To get 2.5 they add a 1/2" spacer on top of the coil spring. Requires disassembly of the strut. My setup is in my sig, the extra 1/2" wasn't worth the hassle for me. My truck has almost exactly 1" of rake

 

I put out some bad information earlier and I don't want to confuse anybody. Apparently, the 2016+ top spacer goes in differently than my 2014.

Edited by bcbz71
Chevy181 Enthusiast

Chevy181

Posted
Posted

I just installed the 2.5" RC on my 2017 Z71 and even though the pictures showed a spacer for the top, it is actually a ring that goes in the strut. It has to be disassembled to be put in. FYI, I didn't need to add the rear blocks for the leveled look. If you want to buy the parts without the blocks, you can save a few bucks.ffd332db4f4bfad41d4a3d3660d81a57.jpg

 

Sent from my SM-G930R7 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted (edited)

On the 16+ trucks it doesn't go on top anymore. Two seperate part numbers now, and I've even called rough country to verify that. Stamped arms (16+) now get the spacer on top of coilspring, not on top of the strut top mount.

 

 

1/2" spacer does not go on top of the coil spring, it goes on top of the strut assembly.

 

Top spacer does not require disassembly of the strut assembly. Requires taking off 3 nuts on top of the strut housing and strut comes out as a complete assembly, then you put the spacer on top and put the nuts back on. Maybe 15 minutes....could be 30 if you are slow with an open end wrench.

Edited by Criscone
Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

My 2" front level is finally settled, and my rear is 3/4" higher than the front. Perfect! However I did just buy a 1.5" zone body lift for a little extra.

BSME1115 Enthusiast

BSME1115

Posted
Posted (edited)

My 2" front level is finally settled, and my rear is 3/4" higher than the front. Perfect! However I did just buy a 1.5" zone body lift for a little extra.

Installed mine yesterday. Also 3/4" difference. Looks much better! Edited by BSME1115

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 3,021 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • asilverblazer
      Intermittent no-code issues on 2022.5+ V8 trucks — what did the shop fail to capture?

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • Chuck FB
      summer road trips in the 2026 2500HD

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Aimatdeer
      Ac not keeping up

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      Paid $2.72 for E85 today.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...