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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

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bloudie Enthusiast

bloudie

Posted
Posted

thanks to everyone in this forum that has contributed their ideas. I have a fairly big pile subs and amps left from an old truck system. I am looking to stuff some solo x 12's or 18's in/on/around a 2014 double cab, along with some components, etc. considering removing rear seat. if I ever get it rockin' I will sure come a knockin'.

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Singlecab_vic Enthusiast

Singlecab_vic

Posted
Posted

Do you have any advice I recently installed the wiring for am on a silverado LT and not happy with results the amp sounds really low and barley even hits. I grabbed the signal from the left and right pilar speaker wires from the running boards. ? any suggestions

Do you have any advice I recently installed the wiring for am on a silverado LT and not happy with results the amp sounds really low and barley even hits. I grabbed the signal from the left and right pilar speaker wires from the running boards. ? any suggestions

  • 1 month later...
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

I already have a sub from my old set up. It's a Rockford Fosgate T1500 2 channel so 750 watts per channel. Can anyone point me in the direction of a set of 2 10s that can handle this much power while also being under 6.25" mounting depth? I have searched but found very few results. Not sure if anyone has seen anything like this.

 

Edit:

 

I know that probox makes something that would work for me. It would cost $650 + $80 for amp kit and from there I will install myself. Anyone think I should go another route? I would rather not have to get a completely new system but if I can get the right price for my old system then I'll gladly put the money toward a completely new system. I plan to keep the Bose door speakers and only add a sub and amp.

SolomonAKOO Enthusiast

SolomonAKOO

Posted
Posted

DC Audio Level 2 10D2 have a mounting depth of 5.5" and peak per of 1200w and an RMS of 600w. You can get them for $189 on sonicelectonix.com

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

DC Audio Level 2 10D2 have a mounting depth of 5.5" and peak per of 1200w and an RMS of 600w. You can get them for $189 on sonicelectonix.com

Would they be able to stand up to the 750W RMS and 1500 peak of each port? I used to know all this stuff but it's been like 3 years since I had to mess with any of it. I just don't want to end up blowing a speaker cause I have too much power behind it. I also don't usually have my bass too high but when I want it loud, I have it cranked up all the way.

SolomonAKOO Enthusiast

SolomonAKOO

Posted
Posted

Would they be able to stand up to the 750W RMS and 1500 peak of each port? I used to know all this stuff but it's been like 3 years since I had to mess with any of it. I just don't want to end up blowing a speaker cause I have too much power behind it. I also don't usually have my bass too high but when I want it loud, I have it cranked up all the way.

I'm pretty sure they would, DC Audio makes a hell of a sub! They've got some pretty heavy magnets on them and sound amazing. I've got one in my truck with a 1200w amp and it sounds amazing when I turn it up. Check DC Audios' website out.
Ex-Ford Guy Enthusiast

Ex-Ford Guy

Posted
Posted

Check out the Alpine SWR-T12. Its pricey, but at 3.5" mounting depth, its by far the shallowest sub that I could find and it can handle a pretty good amount of power. Its rated for 600w RMS with a peak of 1800w. I had it in my old truck for over two years without any issues and am waiting on getting more free time to install it in my new truck!

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Check out the Alpine SWR-T12. Its pricey, but at 3.5" mounting depth, its by far the shallowest sub that I could find and it can handle a pretty good amount of power. Its rated for 600w RMS with a peak of 1800w. I had it in my old truck for over two years without any issues and am waiting on getting more free time to install it in my new truck!

Do they have a 10"? I didn't see one on their site and that's what I'm mainly trying to go for. I'd like to stay with a 10" since it'll stay completely under the seat. Most 12" enclosures will put the sub partially sticking out.

Ex-Ford Guy Enthusiast

Ex-Ford Guy

Posted
Posted

They do have a 10" and you can get it cheaper (10"or 12") on sites like sonicelectronix. That's where I got mine and while I did have the first one they sent me go bad after a few days, they were very quick and responsive in sending me another one at no additional cost.

Klutch Enthusiast

Klutch

Posted
Posted

I have a question although maybe I should start a new thread but this seems to apply. I bought a 12v female plug that tapped the RAP port on my 07-13 truck. I has an inline relay and worked awesome for my GPS. I'd like to switch this over to my 14 Sierra. The photo MotoMedic posted of the plug on the floor seems to have 20 pins. The adapter I have only has 8. Does anybody know the bare plug part number for the 14? I'd like to get ahold of it and switch it out on my adapter accord to the pinout posted. Posting a photo of what I have. Sorry, I tried to read through but didn't notice anyone posting the part number for the female plastic connector to fit the 14' RAP. I know I broke the no toes rule, it was a hasty pic (just be glad I'm wearing socks!)

post-27667-0-92508900-1414422530_thumb.jpg

post-27667-0-92508900-1414422530_thumb.jpg

post-27667-0-92508900-1414422530_thumb.jpg

post-27667-0-92508900-1414422530_thumb.jpg

Evan48 Enthusiast

Evan48

Posted
Posted

For those that have done this mod with the bose sub, can you tell me if the bose amp gets its signal from speaker level inputs or RCAs? I tried to look, but it appears I need to remove the seat to get a full view of the connections.

 

It seems that most of you are using line out converters, so I'm assuming it has speaker level inputs, otherwise you would all just be splitting the RCA signal preamp, correct?

 

The amp I will be using (Alpine MRV-M500) accepts either speaker level inputs or RCA so I should be good no matter what and will opt to use the speaker level inputs of the amp.

 

Just trying to get this figured out before I go ordering everything.

 

Where has been the easiest place to obtain a source signal. It seems like taking out the console to tap into the bose sub would be a lot of work. Has anyone been able to make a connection at the bose amp?

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

We did exactly that.

 

We connected to the Bose amp at the back wall. We unplugged all the high level wires except the factory sub speaker wires and connected them to an Audio Control LC6i converter.

 

The factory sub was left connected to the Bose amp.

 

The LC6i has channel summing, so it generated a signal for the new subwoofer. The (now) pre-amp wires were connected to an MB Quart 1100 watt amplifier, which powers Focal components in the front and Focal co-axial speakers in the back doors. The sub is a single Infinity 12 inch under the back seat with the level control in the dash, very neatly installed.

 

The signal converter and the amplifier were installed under the back passenger side seat.

 

It sounds incredible.

 

8C8F12FE-72E0-4ED6-8CC4-EB92172F61B8_zps

  • 2 weeks later...
Champ14 Enthusiast

Champ14

Posted
Posted

I need help. I have a 2014 sierra denali. I went to JR electronics in miami has them install a Memphis 1000x1 amp and a pioneer 12 in sub that was recently in my 2007 f150 harley. I'm backing out of my driveway then put the car in drive and my truck shakes. The center cluster says stability track off drive with care. I try to accelerate and cant. I pull over and turn the truck off. I try to restart and nothing. I end up having to get towed to the dealer and they tell me my sub and amp fried my ECM. The dealer covered it but left my amp disconnected. They said if I connect it and it happens again they won't cover it. I contacted the store that installed it and the dealer spoke with them. They just played the blame game. The store is a reputable shop that I have gone to for 10 years. They will look at my truck and double check everything. Is it even possible for a amp or sub to blow a ecm or was the dealer just blaming that?

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

I need help. I have a 2014 sierra denali. I went to JR electronics in miami has them install a Memphis 1000x1 amp and a pioneer 12 in sub that was recently in my 2007 f150 harley. I'm backing out of my driveway then put the car in drive and my truck shakes. The center cluster says stability track off drive with care. I try to accelerate and cant. I pull over and turn the truck off. I try to restart and nothing. I end up having to get towed to the dealer and they tell me my sub and amp fried my ECM. The dealer covered it but left my amp disconnected. They said if I connect it and it happens again they won't cover it. I contacted the store that installed it and the dealer spoke with them. They just played the blame game. The store is a reputable shop that I have gone to for 10 years. They will look at my truck and double check everything. Is it even possible for a amp or sub to blow a ecm or was the dealer just blaming that?

A direct unfused short circuit could kill the ECM and everything else for sure, and maybe blow up the battery and / or start a fire.

 

If that were the case, I can't imagine GM paying for that, even once. That's a multi - thousand dollar repair.

 

Certainly, everything needs to be checked with a fine-toothed comb, to see if the power lead for the amp somehow crossed to ground.

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