Jump to content

Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

its the thick solid blue wire - the grey wire is directly behind the blue. In your photo its the far right module - within that module the thick Blue Wire is 1st on your left.

 

Any idea on the what guage those sub wires are? I am thinking about using Posi-Taps (http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html) on them to pickup my signal. But I want to make sure I get the right size tap. Here is a cool video showing how the Posi-Taps work...ingenius!

 

Also, I added to the photo from earlier in the thread to circle the sub wires for people. Thick blue is the + sub wires, the thick grey right behind it is the - sub wire.

 

XVzuiRq.png

  • Replies 513
  • Created
  • Last Reply
SeanTX Enthusiast

SeanTX

Posted
Posted

I would say 14-16 gauge.

 

 

Sent from my 007 phone

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I would say 14-16 gauge.

 

 

Sent from my 007 phone

 

I am going to try and measure them tonight. Thanks!

Nab Enthusiast

Nab

Posted
Posted

Ok might be a dumb question but i just bought my 2014 Sierra SLT and i have the bose system in it....the question is do ALL the bose systems have the amp and sub???

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

They all have the amp, and they will have the subwoofer if you have the bucket seats.

Nab Enthusiast

Nab

Posted
Posted

They all have the amp, and they will have the subwoofer if you have the bucket seats.

 

Cool thanks alot and yes i have the bucket seats.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Made a short video on how to remove the rear seats. I know it's pretty self explanatory, but I had to take them out, I figured I would make a video anyways. I also spent some time today running my power, remote, and bass control wires. Just waiting on few other items before I can hook everything up.

 

 

ProModMike Enthusiast

ProModMike

Posted
Posted

 

Any idea on the what guage those sub wires are? I am thinking about using Posi-Taps (http://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html) on them to pickup my signal. But I want to make sure I get the right size tap. Here is a cool video showing how the Posi-Taps work...ingenius!

 

Also, I added to the photo from earlier in the thread to circle the sub wires for people. Thick blue is the + sub wires, the thick grey right behind it is the - sub wire.

 

XVzuiRq.png

So these are the 2 signal wires to tie into to get the signal feed for the added aftermarket sub amp? Can I just use one of those PAC RCA adapters that has the 4 wires (2x+, 2x-) on one side and RCA jacks on the other?

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

So these are the 2 signal wires to tie into to get the signal feed for the added aftermarket sub amp? Can I just use one of those PAC RCA adapters that has the 4 wires (2x+, 2x-) on one side and RCA jacks on the other?

 

Yea, pretty much. You will have to either make split the single channel before the PAC or use a y-cable RCA cable after the amp. I am going to split the single channel before my LOC (I am going to use and AudioControl Lc2i).

 

I drew a diagram of what I am talking about and posted it a few posts back.

ProModMike Enthusiast

ProModMike

Posted
Posted

Sounds good. I'll check it out, but I get what you're saying. I'm going to run a mono amp with only one subwoofer. Thanks for the excellent posts!!!!

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Sounds good. I'll check it out, but I get what you're saying. I'm going to run a mono amp with only one subwoofer. Thanks for the excellent posts!!!!

 

Same. A mono amp with a single sub. Figured splitting the signal tho would just be that much better.

Glad to help!

RGatzke Enthusiast

RGatzke

Posted
Posted

I have a 2015 Sierra SLT All Terrain crew cab with Bose system. I'm wanting to replace the speakers with my Hertz 6.5 components, install a sub and run them with a JL 900/5 HD. Could I use an Audiocontrol DQ-61 off of the Bose amp inputs or outputs to run my JL 900/5? Or will the door chimes be too outrageous?

  • 2 weeks later...
Mertz Enthusiast

Mertz

Posted
Posted

Hey fondupot-

I split my speaker lines before the line out, like your 1st picture sort of. I actually ran my taps into 1 of the positives & 1 of the negatives, then did a short jumper over to the other side. I'm using some old Stinger LOC that I had from like 20 years ago. Been working just fine for close to 3 months now.

 

I tapped the sub wires under the scuff plate, rear passenger door. Everything was bundled pretty tight, but managed to find enough room.

 

You only get the lower frequencies from those wires, but is just what you want for a sub add-on. I put in a JL 10" wedge (cs110tg-tw3), fits perfect under the driver side rear seat in my '15 crew cab. Not sure the fit in your double cab though.

  • 2 weeks later...
Shu Enthusiast

Shu

Posted
Posted

Here is what I ended up doing with my SLE. It's a Kicker Hideaway 8" powered sub. It fits great with the under seat storage and sounds good. qu3e9yvu.jpg9ynatagu.jpg

 

Is this a double cab or crew cab?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,281 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...