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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

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Chadwilliam1 Enthusiast

Chadwilliam1

Posted
Posted

8ad383c3401b9a970483a2d4dbde59f0.jpg

 

So far I am not impressed. I have to take it back on Monday they said they have to pull the signal from another place. If I decide to keep these then I will try to make them fit in one of those storage trays that fit under the seat.

 

I will post better pictures and my results as soon as I can.

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tootall87 Enthusiast

tootall87

Posted
Posted

Someone want to confirm for me signal wires. Pretty sure just want to double check before I tap into them. Left rear is green-black/green. These seem like some small wires. 20 gauge or less maybe. I was gonna tap into them with 14 ga but that seems a little excessive.

 

jxcErU0l.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
tootall87 Enthusiast

tootall87

Posted
Posted

Well I wired up my system the other day and it's been a nightmare.

 

Running an Alpine MVR-M500 500 watt RMS @ 2ohm mono amp to a Sundown SD-3 D4 wired in parallel to 2ohm.

 

The alpine has speaker level inputs built in so no need to a line output converter.

 

Got everything wired up, connections verified and on the first power up, zap, blew the fuses on the amp.

 

I had a local shop build the box for me and upon picking it up they had already mounted and wired the sub into the box. They originally determined that the sub had been fried. Thinking it was their fault some how they offered to loan me one of their subs to tie me over until they could order me a new one.

 

Wired up their sub, this time with a line out converter and a remote wire running to the battery (temporary just to get power for the second hook up). No signal to the amp from the door speakers as of yet but the amp was on via the remote wire. It didn't short out the amp this time but the sub literally started smoking after a few seconds.

 

Conclusion bad amp. Brand new from alpine.

 

I am working on warrantying out my amp and sub but in the mean time I'm just trying to troubleshoot and cover my bases. I've verified my speaker connections are +/+ and -/- on both sides. 4 ga wiring to the amp, good ground on the rear seat bolts.

 

Anyone have any other ideas on how anything could have caused the amp to fail or simple conclusion is it was just a bad amp?

 

Thanks folks!

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
Posted

Well I wired up my system the other day and it's been a nightmare.

 

Running an Alpine MVR-M500 500 watt RMS @ 2ohm mono amp to a Sundown SD-3 D4 wired in parallel to 2ohm.

 

The alpine has speaker level inputs built in so no need to a line output converter.

 

Got everything wired up, connections verified and on the first power up, zap, blew the fuses on the amp.

 

I had a local shop build the box for me and upon picking it up they had already mounted and wired the sub into the box. They originally determined that the sub had been fried. Thinking it was their fault some how they offered to loan me one of their subs to tie me over until they could order me a new one.

 

Wired up their sub, this time with a line out converter and a remote wire running to the battery (temporary just to get power for the second hook up). No signal to the amp from the door speakers as of yet but the amp was on via the remote wire. It didn't short out the amp this time but the sub literally started smoking after a few seconds.

 

Conclusion bad amp. Brand new from alpine.

 

I am working on warrantying out my amp and sub but in the mean time I'm just trying to troubleshoot and cover my bases. I've verified my speaker connections are +/+ and -/- on both sides. 4 ga wiring to the amp, good ground on the rear seat bolts.

 

Anyone have any other ideas on how anything could have caused the amp to fail or simple conclusion is it was just a bad amp?

 

Thanks folks!

 

Did you check to ensure the amplifiers gains are set correctly. At first they should be turned all the way down. Even the voltage coming off the LOC should be checked in order to ensure it isn't too high for the amp to handle.

tootall87 Enthusiast

tootall87

Posted
Posted

 

Did you check to ensure the amplifiers gains are set correctly. At first they should be turned all the way down. Even the voltage coming off the LOC should be checked in order to ensure it isn't too high for the amp to handle.

 

The original setup did not include the LOC. I checked the volts coming from the power wire and it read standard 12v with the truck off. The amp had the gains set fairly low but not all the way down. Certainly wasn't more than 50% of the dial.

Strykers_Inc Enthusiast

Strykers_Inc

Posted
Posted

The original setup did not include the LOC. I checked the volts coming from the power wire and it read standard 12v with the truck off. The amp had the gains set fairly low but not all the way down. Certainly wasn't more than 50% of the dial.

 

Check this out and maybe you will get where I am coming from.

 

 

tootall87 Enthusiast

tootall87

Posted
Posted

Check this out and maybe you will get where I am coming from.

 

 

 

Ha! I was way off base. I have a multi meter. Had no knowledge of the equation or test you could run on the amp. Good stuff thanks. I'll be doing that when my new equip shows up.

 

Just for info the amp I'll run is 500 watts rms at 2ohm matching the sub thats rated for 500 watts at 2ohm.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Here is my setup. They sound good but eventually I am going to want more bass I think. f52f2f0dda1c4f15f3636a714583f1f5.jpg

Try the NVX's. I got 2 10" NVXVCW104s in my truck and no one believes that I only have 2 10s.

arkenzo Enthusiast

arkenzo

Posted
Posted

Try the NVX's. I got 2 10" NVXVCW104s in my truck and no one believes that I only have 2 10s.

pics or it didnt happen :driving:

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

pics or it didnt happen :driving:

I'll get a pic of the actual subs when I get the truck back next week. At the dealer. It's been squeaking from the rear end for quite some time now, at first WD-40 fixed it, now, the only thing that fixes it is turning the music up loud haha. GM agreed to change out the leaf springs under warranty since the dealer said that's where the problem was

Escuba New Member

Escuba

Posted
Posted

I just bought a '15 crew cab Silverado with Bose and console on Thursday so now Im getting some ideas here. Just out of curiosity, if the truck has Bose but no console and is only a 6 speakers system, is it the same amplifier as a 7 speaker system? Just missing the Blue and Grey wires on the plug? Is there still some decent bass?

Roader Enthusiast

Roader

Posted
Posted

The bose with the sub is good enough for my truck but I really wish the amp was better for the components. Its a world of difference getting in my car with hertz speakers and 900/5 amp to the truck with who knows what it has. Wish GM would offer a better amp upgrade.

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