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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

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Champ14 Enthusiast

Champ14

Posted
Posted

Ok i will get them to look over everything. The dealer told me to replace the ecm was 500-1k.

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austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

My first thought is that since they paid for it they are not really sure what caused it.

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

Years ago, I had a new truck that had a crankshaft position sensor fail, at speed, on the interstate. Dead truck.

 

These things just happen sometimes.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

We did exactly that.

 

We connected to the Bose amp at the back wall. We unplugged all the high level wires except the factory sub speaker wires and connected them to an Audio Control LC6i converter.

 

The factory sub was left connected to the Bose amp.

 

The LC6i has channel summing, so it generated a signal for the new subwoofer. The (now) pre-amp wires were connected to an MB Quart 1100 watt amplifier, which powers Focal components in the front and Focal co-axial speakers in the back doors. The sub is a single Infinity 12 inch under the back seat with the level control in the dash, very neatly installed.

 

The signal converter and the amplifier were installed under the back passenger side seat.

 

It sounds incredible.

 

8C8F12FE-72E0-4ED6-8CC4-EB92172F61B8_zps

Mind posting a pic of your control knob for the sub? I'm interested to see where you put it in the dash.

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

Mind posting a pic of your control knob for the sub? I'm interested to see where you put it in the dash.

I'll be happy to, but it's going to be a few days before I get it back from the body shop. My neighbor's dad backed into me... $2740.00 damage to the back corner, and unless you were a car person or I told you, you couldn't even tell. . The adjuster said that if he had hit a normal stupid car that hard it would have caved in the corner.

 

C30BAF27-5B3A-472B-A022-AE960B0B8103_zps

 

 

 

 

My rental is OK though...

 

85CC9A76-7DFD-4A86-9B88-875C85E5D944_zps

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

I already had to change out the rear bumper... not very strong and a bi!^h to change out...

OhmMega Enthusiast

OhmMega

Posted
Posted

I was thinking about putting an equalizer in. I setup some pink noise and it looks like the 5-8khz starts to dip.

 

Anyone know if the gain in those bands will be noticeable enoughto justify the $2-300 cost?

  • 3 weeks later...
Alfosno New Member

Alfosno

Posted
Posted

were exactly to conect the Hi/Lo Signal Converter to the Bose sub's input lines ?

Alfosno New Member

Alfosno

Posted
Posted

I did this upgrade awhile back, but have been really busy and never got around to posting. I know there's already a topic on the K2's Bose system, but that one discusses models with the bench seats. My upgrade was done on an SLT with bucket seats and factory Bose sub under the center console. Selected pics are posted at the end.

 

 

After removing the center console, I discovered the Bose sub (it's only 6") but not the Bose amp. I guessed it was somewhere buried behind the dash, so I decided to simply hook up a Hi/Lo Signal Converter to the Bose sub's input lines to save some time/effort. It provided a very clean, strong signal but is only suitable for adding an aftermarket sub, since the signal to the Bose sub is low freq only. If you choose to do this, the blue wire is "+" and the gray wire is "-".

 

After running all my wiring under the carper and re-installing the center console, I moved on the mounting my amp. Removed the rear seats and discovered... the Bose amp mounted to the rear wall of the truck. If you look under the center of the seat, you'll see swiss-cheese-holes in the insulation. The amp is just up and left of those openings. I don't have any info on the K2's amp wiring but I'm sure eventually PAC will come out with a plug-n-play option for adding amps and some of you might be able to avoid having to remove the center console.

 

I mounted my amp to the rear wall on the driver's side, hooked everything up, and for once everything worked for me the first time!

 

So were exactly to conect the Hi/Lo Signal Converter to the Bose sub's input lines ?

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

I'll be happy to, but it's going to be a few days before I get it back from the body shop. My neighbor's dad backed into me... $2740.00 damage to the back corner, and unless you were a car person or I told you, you couldn't even tell. . The adjuster said that if he had hit a normal stupid car that hard it would have caved in the corner.

 

C30BAF27-5B3A-472B-A022-AE960B0B8103_zps

 

 

 

 

My rental is OK though...

 

85CC9A76-7DFD-4A86-9B88-875C85E5D944_zps

Hey man, did you ever get a chance to take a picture of your control knob by chance?

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

Mind posting a pic of your control knob for the sub? I'm interested to see where you put it in the dash.

I apologize for the delay. Here is the pic:

 

swcontrol_zpsefae30da.jpg

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

I apologize for the delay. Here is the pic:

 

swcontrol_zpsefae30da.jpg

No problem and no worries about the delay. Also which remote knob do you have? How did you mount it there? I really like that spot better than where I have mine know. I currently have mine 3M tapped to the center console directly infront of the cup holders. Makes for very easy access. But your way looks cleaner.

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

No problem and no worries about the delay. Also which remote knob do you have? How did you mount it there? I really like that spot better than where I have mine know. I currently have mine 3M tapped to the center console directly infront of the cup holders. Makes for very easy access. But your way looks cleaner.

We removed the panel and drilled a small hole for the shaft of the knob. Easy.

It controls the sub output of an MB Quart 1000 W 5 channel amp. It's just a telephone cord (RJ-11) like most bass knobs use.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

We removed the panel and drilled a small hole for the shaft of the knob. Easy.

It controls the sub output of an MB Quart 1000 W 5 channel amp. It's just a telephone cord (RJ-11) like most bass knobs use.

Thanks man! I may move mine to where yours is
  • 2 weeks later...
TexasDevilDog Enthusiast

TexasDevilDog

Posted
Posted

We did exactly that.

 

We connected to the Bose amp at the back wall. We unplugged all the high level wires except the factory sub speaker wires and connected them to an Audio Control LC6i converter.

 

The factory sub was left connected to the Bose amp.

 

The LC6i has channel summing, so it generated a signal for the new subwoofer. The (now) pre-amp wires were connected to an MB Quart 1100 watt amplifier, which powers Focal components in the front and Focal co-axial speakers in the back doors. The sub is a single Infinity 12 inch under the back seat with the level control in the dash, very neatly installed.

 

The signal converter and the amplifier were installed under the back passenger side seat.

 

It sounds incredible.

 

8C8F12FE-72E0-4ED6-8CC4-EB92172F61B8_zps

 

I am building a similar set up. Focal components up front and coax in the back. A JL 12TW3 sub powered by a JL 900/5 amp.

 

Did you take the input to the bose amp and connect to your LC6 or the output of the amp? Does taking from the input mean no chimes and no 3" speakers on the dash?

 

I have read both options.

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