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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

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mkeddie Enthusiast

mkeddie

Posted
Posted

 

 

 

Hi/Lo Signal Converter to the Bose sub's input lines to save some time/effort. It provided a very clean, strong signal but is only suitable for adding an aftermarket sub, since the signal to the Bose sub is low freq only. If you choose to do this, the blue wire is "+" and the gray wire is "-".

 

 

What blue and Greg wire are u referring to ??????

d5231bfed802bdd5ca9b52a7cb3360ba.jpg

Are they the ones in the right plug on the amp

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mkeddie Enthusiast

mkeddie

Posted
Posted

Has anyone done sub/amp in 6.2 w/ Bose? I did thru a reputable installer and because of the noise cancelation system in the 6.2, which is linked up to the Bose I have a very loud reverb noise thru the sub, whenever the noise cancelation kicks in...easiest way to trigger the noise is first 5-6 min on after a cold start between 1300-1700 rpm's or on the highway at speed when truck shifts to 6'th and the rpms drop into that range. Anyone else have any idea how to either disconnect noise cancelation ( maybe disable mic's in cabin) or or ute sub and amp so that it doesn't get that input from Bose system? My truck is back at the installers today and they are trying to figure it out.

Thanks

Same issue as u trying to figure it out

 

 

Edit

Rear mic for noise cancelation found it

Awesome thread

warreng Enthusiast

warreng

Posted
Posted

Has anyone tried fitting the Kicker Hideaway behind the seat of a double cab? I noticed the pic earlier in the thread of the multiple amps behind the seat. Thinking the Hideaway is not much larger than that....

SeanTX Enthusiast

SeanTX

Posted
Posted

its the thick solid blue wire - the grey wire is directly behind the blue. In your photo its the far right module - within that module the thick Blue Wire is 1st on your left.

mkeddie Enthusiast

mkeddie

Posted
Posted

its the thick solid blue wire - the grey wire is directly behind the blue. In your photo its the far right module - within that module the thick Blue Wire is 1st on your left.

Thanks I got it all hooked up and I just pulled the grill off the mic and covered it with silicone......no more run away rumble
  • 4 weeks later...
Jaykhjr28 Enthusiast

Jaykhjr28

Posted
Posted

Has anyone found an easier way (other than the plug on the drivers side to behind the wire block by the brake) to get a 4 gauge power wire through the firewall without drilling?

 

 

Thanks

GRN69CHV Enthusiast

GRN69CHV

Posted
Posted

Has anyone found an easier way (other than the plug on the drivers side to behind the wire block by the brake) to get a 4 gauge power wire through the firewall without drilling?

 

 

Thanks

Saw a thread on here somewhere else,I did explore it. You can run a power lead through a grommet in the door jamb into the fenderwell to get it into the engine compartment.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

What Hi/Lo converter is every using from the Bose sub output?

 

And I have a question, if you are only tapping the sub wires from the stock sub (thick blue and thick grey) you will only have 1 RCA channel output hooked up.

 

Is this enough signal for the amp to run off?

austingta Enthusiast

austingta

Posted
Posted

I like Audiocontrol. Made in America. I've been using their components for 10 years. I currently have the LC8 line converter and the 6XS active crossover. I use a MB Quart 1000 5 channel amp and Focal component speakers in the front doors and A pillars and Pioneer 3.5 coaxials in the dash for redundant tweeters. Infinity 12 inch sub under the back seat.

 

The factory Bose Amp still powers the console (mid)sub and the rear door speakers.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

I like Audiocontrol. Made in America. I've been using their components for 10 years. I currently have the LC8 line converter and the 6XS active crossover. I use a MB Quart 1000 5 channel amp and Focal component speakers in the front doors and A pillars and Pioneer 3.5 coaxials in the dash for redundant tweeters. Infinity 12 inch sub under the back seat.

 

The factory Bose Amp still powers the console (mid)sub and the rear door speakers.

 

No doubt the audiocontrol units are nice. But I think thats more than I need. I am just wanting to add a sub. Nothing more. The most I would need I guess is the LC2i.

 

I guess my question still stands. Once I grab the signal from the OEM sub, is that enough? Most line out converters have at least two channels of input, if I am only providing one will that still be sufficient?

 

I would either have to split the speaker level wires from the OEM sub into the LOC, or use a y-cable on the other side of the LOC if I only hook up the pair of OEM sub wires. Which is better?

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Here is a couple diagrams of what I am asking. Hopefully that is clear enough.

 

 

Split Speaker inputs before LOC

2MyBxat.png

 

 

Use y-cable after LOC

ndzSCEl.png




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

barcia51 Enthusiast

barcia51

Posted
Posted

OK guys. I installed my amp and sub the other day and I have distortion only while driving or when the truck is running. Found out it is caused by the active noise canceling system (I have the 6.2 L) I unplugged the far left plug on the factory amplifier and that cured my problem. Does anyone have a wireing diagram for this amp? All I need to do is disco the 2 wires that go to the microphones and I can't find any info online? Thanks

Pat Grant Enthusiast

Pat Grant

Posted
Posted

Here is my take, but first a little bit of background on where I'm coming from, and I am sorry if this is long winded and seems to be rambling.....

 

Before going to work in aviation, I worked as a sound engineer in live sound reinforcement (mixing sound for concerts) for 17 years, the last 5 year before leaving the "biz" I managed a production company. Our main sound system pushed around 65k watts of nice, clean Crown power. The system had 14 subs, each having two 18" speakers with 2400w going into each sub @ 4 ohms. Yeah.....It was bad ass to the point that I could blur your vision if I wanted to.

 

So naturally, I love good clean audio and yes, after 17 years in the "biz", followed by 20 years in aviation (and nearly 6 years of photographing race cars) I have mild tinnitus and have lost a little bit of my high frequencies. BUT, I am a audio aficionado. I have found that over the years, people will tune their sound systems to what pleases their taste, which isn't always what the studio engineer intended when the song was mixed. My first impression is that the Silverado Bose system is pretty flat, but a little bit of adjustment gets the system sounding pretty good. Whether it is a car, home or concert audio system I have always used two particular Jazz songs to tune a system as they are sensibly mixed (not bass heavy).

 

I've had the HC with the Bose for a little over 1 month and I am thoroughly impressed after a little tweaking. It gets plenty loud and thumps pretty good and it relatively clean. So when I found this thread, it definitely piqued my interest and MotoMedic's post put me on a treasure hunt. I had suspected it had a sub, but wasn't sure. Upon first inspection on the cheese grater, I was miffed as I didn't see the amp, but looking closer, it is actually to the left (when looking aft) of the cheese grater holes. Then, I read where people were wanting to test it to see if they had it or if it actually made a difference. A little more playing around and I found that you can turn off the sub by moving the speaker fader all the way to the rear. Move it one "click" off the rear and you will hear it kick in.

 

I hope this helps and I didn't bore you too much.

 

 

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