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Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp


MotoMedic

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Posted

 

Here is what I ended up doing with my SLE. It's a Kicker Hideaway 8" powered sub. It fits great with the under seat storage and sounds good.

 

 

How hard was this to install? where did you get the signal from and how did you route your wires? looking to get this as well

This was fairly easy to install. The under seat storage box is the one you can get from the gmc oem parts catalog. I mounted the sub with two traps and four screws. The kicker kit comes with a cut out template to show you where to screw the four mounting screws. I tapped into the passenger side rear speaker wire and ran bass boost knob to the driver side center console storage slot so I can adjust the bass level on the fly. The power wire I ran along the passenger side and into the engine bay by drilling a hole on the passenger side foot well. Others have taken a close hanger poke threw the existing rubber grummit. I looked at doing this but between my big hands and lack of a clear view of what I was doing under there I decided to drill my own hole. I terminated the power on the power block above the battery. All the wiring was just long enough without having to add any length to the kits wire.

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Posted

Was wondering if any that have removed the back seat found the wiring for the amp in place. So if one wanted

to add the Bose amp if was just plug and play. Seems allot of truck are coming with the Bose speakers just not the

amp

Posted

Ive got the Bose and an amp on the back of the cab does that mean I have a sub in the council? I hear and feel nothing coming from it, all the bass is coming from the doors.

Posted
Was wondering if any that have removed the back seat found the wiring for the amp in place. So if one wanted

to add the Bose amp if was just plug and play. Seems allot of truck are coming with the Bose speakers just not the

amp

Nope, my SLE All Terran with Bose labeled on the front door speakers didn't have the amp or the wiring for the amp either. The back cab insulation had vents and was bubbled out to fit the amp. But no wiring. I had to splice into the rear door speaker.

Posted

Nope, my SLE All Terran with Bose labeled on the front door speakers didn't have the amp or the wiring for the amp either. The back cab insulation had vents and was bubbled out to fit the amp. But no wiring. I had to splice into the rear door speaker.

Interesting: Still wonder why they would bother with just limited speakers in some. Like said something is in my console. I turned the treble to lowest as well as the mid. If open the console lid and put your hand

down in can feel a light bass, also when take the cup holders out. Best bet is if a sub its running off the stock unit and has very low power feed. Just interesting to know GM thinking on this. Sounds ok for a truck

and not going to spend money tearing it out. I drive my BMW with the harman most of the time. a $900 opt. Rode in one without it and sounded very good too. The harman does the surround (concert Hall effect),

if the echo type effect is not your thing, you would not like this unit. Too many human ears to satisfy by the manufacturers.

Posted

If i have the 6 speaker bose with stock amp, can i get the signal from one of the wires connecting to it or does it have to be from a speaker?

Posted

Im trying to choose a subwoofer for my 2014 Sierra double cab. I want a box that fits under the rear seat with a single driver.

 

For the driver Im gravitating toward the JL Audio 10TW3-D4 shallow depth driver.

http://www.jlaudio.com/10tw3-d4-car-audio-tw3-subwoofer-drivers-92184

 

singlesub3.jpg

 

I would prefer to buy one of JLs own boxes that are designed and built specifically for the JL 10TW3-D4 but none of these three boxes will fit under the rear seat. Picture and prices are from JL website. These can be had for less at other sites.

 

singlesub2.jpg

 

The only box I can find for a single 10 under the seat of my double cab is this one from Xtreme Enclosures:

http://www.soundoffaudio.com/2014-chevrolet-silverado-double-cab-single-sub-box/

 

Their single-driver box is so new that they dont have a photo up yet but Im sure it looks something like this photo of their 2007-13 single-driver box:

 

singlesub.jpg

 

My questions:

 

-Has anyone tried this single-driver box from Xtreme?

 

-Are there any other single-driver boxes for under the rear seat of the 2014 double cab?

 

-Is there a better way to get deep musical bass in the 2014 DC without losing space from my passenger area?

 

I seek solid faithful reproduction of low-frequencies. Not trying to wake the neighbors/ turn heads at stop-lights.

Posted

This Kicker Factory Fit sub is interesting. It is a 10 and should be plug-and-play. It is hard to tell if it really fits the 14 double cabs. The web documentation on it is spotty thin. It may even include a multi-channel amp for (some of) the six factory drivers.

 

From the Kicker site:

singlesub4.jpg

 

Im more inclined to want a mdf box with more watts in a known high-quality amp. Im still very interested in this Kicker Factory Fit. Does anyone have any knowledge/experience with it?

Posted

Wondering if original poster or anyone else could elaborate on mounting an amp to rear wall... How did you mount it? Did you drill through the wall? Glue a piece of MDF to mount to? Is there anything in place already to attach to?

 

I have a 2014 silverado with the center console bose system, looking to mount a JL JX250/1 amp on driver side rear wall like MotoMedic for a single JL 8" W3v3 subwoofer, and tap into existing bose system.

 

thanks!

 

Edit: I heard back from MotoMedic on this so I think I'm all set. Will post results after install.

Posted

So before I picked up my brand new crew cab yesterday I was dead set on a dual 10" under the back seat sub box but after seeing all that room under the seat I hate to kill all that space with a subwoofer box. I saw someone earlier post about the JL 10" wedge enclosure has anyone else used that setup? Anyone else run a single enclosure? If so, where did you mount the amp to keep it out of the way?

Posted

I "military tapped" the signal from behind the screen. The green connector I believe. Top left I'm pretty certain. I used an amplifier (alpine mrv-m250) that has line level inputs or whatever it's called, it also uses the signal from those wires to turn amp on so no need for a 12v source,

 

 

Are you saying the speaker level wiring is enough voltage to use as a remote on signal for a secondary amp?

 

Doesn't the factory sub amp have a 12 volt switch power for it's remote on signal that we could tap into? Or is it's 12 v supply switched by a relay so we could use that?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I'm getting the JL Audio 10TW3-D4 installed this Wed... will let you know how it goes..

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