Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

[MotoMedic]

 

I used 0 gauge wire so making that sharp bend before coming into the cab of the truck wasn't even possible! Good point though that needs to be thought through. I slightly modified your masterpiece with the snipping tool to show that there are little flaps on the vents to help with weather too. I do still need to make sure everything is in check with that..

 

Since you admitted to it, I guess I'll let slide the defacing of a priceless work of art. haha. Just wanted to make sure you didn't mess up like I did about 10 years ago and later discover your amp & carpet all wet.

 

0 gauge? Dizam! You hooking up a winch back there too??

[gough1jj]

 

Since you admitted to it, I guess I'll let slide the defacing of a priceless work of art. haha. Just wanted to make sure you didn't mess up like I did about 10 years ago and later discover your amp & carpet all wet.

 

0 gauge? Dizam! You hooking up a winch back there too??

haha. I think 0 gauge was recommended for those two monster 12'' L7's that are 750 watts rms each..So I had some from my last install in my car.. I noticed that the lights do slightly dim when the base pounds obnoxiously loud, but its better than my old 02 grand am. I think I'm going to get the shallow kicker 12s eventually. not sure about one or two yet..

[MotoMedic]

haha. I think 0 gauge was recommended for those two monster 12'' L7's that are 750 watts rms each..So I had some from my last install in my car.. I noticed that the lights do slightly dim when the base pounds obnoxiously loud, but its better than my old 02 grand am. I think I'm going to get the shallow kicker 12s eventually. not sure about one or two yet..

In my truck, one 10" slams, so two 10" should be plenty!

[bigbee]

I know its a little late, but hopefully it will help others....

 

I have always ran my power cables thru the driver's side firewall, but it seemed impossible on this truck. I ran my 0 ga. cable thru the passenger side firewall since there was plenty of room plus the battery is on that side. I usually use the 3 piece waterproof grommet from stinger, but I was impatient and used a regular grommet plus some sealant to keep the water out.

[OhmMega]

There's room right here in the stock grommet.

[bigbee]

Here are some pics of the sub box I built for 2 Polk Mobile Monitor Subs - 8" MM840DVC and 10" MM1040DVC. I built it to Polk's recommendend volume and it sounds awesome.The chamber for the 8" is 0.35 cu ft and the 10" is 0.66 cu ft. I don't like the normal speaker connection plates since they can leak air, so I used Neutrik speakOn connectors. They are kind of pricey and normally used for pro audio, but I really like the quality and easy quick-disconnect without worry of shorting out. I forgot to take a picture with both connectors installed.

[bigbee]

There's room right here in the stock grommet.

I thought about that, but it seemed too difficult with 0ga wire.

[OhmMega]

Wire lube or dish soap.

[bigbee]

Here are some pics of the sub box I built for 2 Polk Mobile Monitor Subs - 8" MM840DVC and 10" MM1040DVC. I built it to Polk's recommendend volume and it sounds awesome.The chamber for the 8" is 0.35 cu ft and the 10" is 0.66 cu ft. I don't like the normal speaker connection plates since they can leak air, so I used Neutrik speakOn connectors. They are kind of pricey and normally used for pro audio, but I really like the quality and easy quick-disconnect without worry of shorting out. I forgot to take a picture with both connectors installed.

I also have a box with a 12" DVC sitting on the back seat. This was originally in my previous truck which had no room under or behind the seat. This is when I first discovered and used a speakOn conector. If someone needs to ride in the back, it only takes a second to disconnect it and I don't worry about the wires touching anything or each other. I have it strapped to the latch system so it doesn't go flying in case of a wreck. Each sub is connected to it's own 500w rms class d amp. It's nice getting the full bass spectrum without stressing any of the subs.

[bigbee]

Wire lube or dish soap.

When I said I thougth it would be too difficult, I was actually thinking how to route the 0ga wire behind the fuse/relay box. I'm glad I ended up going on the passenger side because my wire wouldnt have been long enough. I will say your way looks alot easier though.

[Black14crew]

I pulled 4ga through the grommet on drivers side it wasn't easy by any means. I unscrewed the relay box from the inside of the cab which roped a bit that and lots of lube!!!

 

If anyone is looking for a great sub I just bought a JL Audio 10 TW3 2 ohm wedge box. It fit under the seat tucks back in and you can't even see it's there. It's a great sounding sub. JL has rewritten the book on shallow mount subs. I have it on a little 5 Chanel alpine amp that 60x4 and 350 rms to the sub. No need for a custom box I could fit 3 of these subs under my rear seat, but 1 is enough to shake everything in my truck to the point you can't see out the rear view mirror. Very happy.

 

While I'm talking up JL I'm loving my 6.5 C5 components there so smooth. I chose them over focal poly glass and I'm enjoying them!

[bigbee]

Sorry for the poor quality photo....

 

On the passenger side of the firewall, there is a rectangle area where there is no insulation, presumably for added options. (A) is the power wire. I used the bolt (B) as a reference point, then drilled with a unibit from the cabin side of the firewall.

[bngriss]

Has anyone built an enclosure for behind the seat of a Crew Cab w/ Bose? I have an existing enclosure from my Tahoe (placed behind third seat/gate and I would like to re-use it if possible. I like the idea of behind the seat because I can still access the storage under the seat if needed. However, it doesn't look like there is a ton of space behind the seat to do this. Any dimensions, insight or whatever would be great. Thanks!

[AW22]

Has anyone done sub/amp in 6.2 w/ Bose? I did thru a reputable installer and because of the noise cancelation system in the 6.2, which is linked up to the Bose I have a very loud reverb noise thru the sub, whenever the noise cancelation kicks in...easiest way to trigger the noise is first 5-6 min on after a cold start between 1300-1700 rpm's or on the highway at speed when truck shifts to 6'th and the rpms drop into that range. Anyone else have any idea how to either disconnect noise cancelation ( maybe disable mic's in cabin) or or ute sub and amp so that it doesn't get that input from Bose system? My truck is back at the installers today and they are trying to figure it out.

Thanks

[wikidbwoy]

I went with JL Audio shallow mounts & 750hd amp. I want to upgrade my Bose highs though but not sure what i want to go with.