Jump to content

Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Prosnowsk8er Enthusiast

Prosnowsk8er

Posted
Posted

Finally got around to installing my sub and amp, truck has the Bose but it needed some more thump.

 

JL 500/1 amp and a 12" Alpine SWR-t12 under the back seat. These thin alpines are awesome!

  • Replies 513
  • Created
  • Last Reply
cmpcpro Enthusiast

cmpcpro

Posted
Posted

Nice! I have been wanting to do this but am afraid of warranty issues should anything go out. I have been seeing others have their Mylink systems go out and know GM would blame anything like this on it.. Did you have to cut any wires? Or splice anything? Can you show pics? Thanks!

LTZ2014 Enthusiast

LTZ2014

Posted
Posted
Nice! I have been wanting to do this but am afraid of warranty issues should anything go out. I have been seeing others have their Mylink systems go out and know GM would blame anything like this on it.. Did you have to cut any wires? Or splice anything? Can you show pics? Thanks!

 

This will not hurt your mylink at all. You only have to t-tap into a pair of speaker wires to a line output converter. Two 10s under my back seat. qareqyse.jpgpunabydu.jpg

cmpcpro Enthusiast

cmpcpro

Posted
Posted

This will not hurt your mylink at all. You only have to t-tap into a pair of speaker wires to a line output converter. Two 10s under my back seat. qareqyse.jpgpunabydu.jpg

That looks great! I am not worried about it hurting my Mylink, I was saying I have seen others having their Mylink go out, and I would just be worried if the amp, or Mylink or part of the system were to go out that GM would try to blame it on tapping into the system. Did you have to run the amp kit all the way to the battery? Where did you run all the wires? How did you get through the firewall? Thanks!

Prosnowsk8er Enthusiast

Prosnowsk8er

Posted
Posted

To the poster... Do you have a crew cab or double cab? Can you post some pictures

Crew cab, I will try and get some pictures this weekend. I only taped off the one rear speaker and My amp allows line level input so no need for a line out convertor.

 

I ran my power wire down the right side, if you pop the kick up under the dash there is a grommet there where the wiring goes through there that is by far your best bet for power.

 

I did find something funny tho.... I opened the back door sill and found a rusty bolt floating around, the picture to is to big to upload right now so I will try that again

After when I'm not on my ipad.

fondupot Senior Enthusiast

fondupot

Posted
Posted

Nice. I been thinking of doing this, but in my double cab, space is limited. and I dont want to lose all my under seat storage.

Prosnowsk8er Enthusiast

Prosnowsk8er

Posted
Posted

Did you add this to the 6 speaker Bose or 7 speaker with subwoofer?

I don't think there is a 6 speaker only is there? I have the 7 I guess with the bucket seats and sub

 

 

 

Can't seem to get my pics to resize

jdthomas24 Enthusiast

jdthomas24

Posted
Posted

Power from battery terminal. Ground to back seat bolts. Remote from Bose amp on back wall.

 

Several ways to feed the rcas. One you can use the output for the Bose sub on a powered RCA converter. You can also use a direct off the rear speaker wires. One thing is that most are mono amps for the subs. The Bose noise cancelation can affect the sound if you try and use both rear speaker wires for RCA taps. It reverses the phases on one speaker and causing the amp to be out of phase and kills the sound output. Use just one side and double tap into for rcas. This will repair that issue. Or you can always unhook the nisei cancel speakers. I wouldn't do that though.

MotoMedic Senior Enthusiast

MotoMedic

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You might check behind the rear seat and see if the non-Bose also uses a separate amp? (it might since these newer trucks don't have traditional head units).

 

If not, and it were me, I'd just tap the right rear speaker's wiring behind the B-pillar.

bigbee Enthusiast

bigbee

Posted
Posted

For non-Bose, you can tap the rear speaker wires in the B Pillar before they go thru the harness to the rear doors. They are twisted pairs.

Left Rear Speaker (+) green // (-) green/black

Right Rear Speaker (+) white // (-) blue/black

Vince Stormes New Member

Vince Stormes

Posted
Posted

I just bought my '14 Silverado LTZ Z71 4X4 Saturday. I have the BOSE system, but the window sticker does not say if I have the factory sub or not. How can I tell?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,978
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    rayredbone
    Newest Member
    rayredbone
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 469 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Blade8971
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By Blade8971 · Posted

      Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...