Jump to content

Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp


MotoMedic

Recommended Posts

Posted

Remove right side bolster and it's above the right side kick panel, big rubber grommet facing fender down behind battery, a coat hanger and Vaseline is your friend.

  • Replies 513
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Hey I want to put in a subwoofer in my truck, but don't want to lose Underseat storage. Does anyone know how difficult it would be to take out the back seat to out 1 or 2 10" subs with a box behind the rear seat? I don't have a power sliding rear window. Thanks in advance

Posted

This is absolutely the cleanest and best sounding sub box I have ever used in my trucks. 2 little 10w3's firing down with a modest 500w JL audio amp will still make you eyballs wiggle and you would never know it's in the truck by looking at it.

 

http://www.jlaudio.com/product/54216.103634.2094.32474.1078350/Chevrolet_SilveradoGMC_Sierra_Crew_Cab_Trucks_%2714-Up

Posted

Hey I want to put in a subwoofer in my truck, but don't want to lose Underseat storage. Does anyone know how difficult it would be to take out the back seat to out 1 or 2 10" subs with a box behind the rear seat? I don't have a power sliding rear window. Thanks in advance

Taking out the seat is easy. Having enough space behind rear seats will be the problem. Will require a very shallow custom box and you'll likely have to work around or relocate factory amp bolted to rear wall.

Posted

First of all id like to say thanks for all of the helpful information.Thanks to MotoMedic I've successfully installed 5000k Morimoto 3five HIDs on my 2014 GMC Sierra SLE.

 

I have the bucket seats with the non-Bose system. I want to install a subwoofer under my center console where the Bose subwoofer is normally located. How practical is this? I want to save space and i thought i might as well utilize the empty space under my center console, if there is any under the non-Bose center console. Is it necessary to remove the seats to take the console apart? How difficult is it to take the console apart? I would greatly appreciate any pictures or answers to these questions.

Posted

I have the bucket seats with the non-Bose system. I want to install a subwoofer under my center console where the Bose subwoofer is normally located. How practical is this? I want to save space and i thought i might as well utilize the empty space under my center console, if there is any under the non-Bose center console. Is it necessary to remove the seats to take the console apart? How difficult is it to take the console apart? I would greatly appreciate any pictures or answers to these questions.

It's not difficult and is mentioned a bit earlier in the topic. Problem is there's not much room under the console. Look at pic of Bose sub in very first post.. that's the max size your box can be.

Posted

Here is what I ended up doing with my SLE. It's a Kicker Hideaway 8" powered sub. It fits great with the under seat storage and sounds good. qu3e9yvu.jpg9ynatagu.jpg

Posted

Does anyone have pictures of a 2014 double cab with a single sub and amp under the rear seats? Also, what is a good but not super expensive box to get?

Posted

Here is what I ended up doing with my SLE. It's a Kicker Hideaway 8" powered sub. It fits great with the under seat storage and sounds good. qu3e9yvu.jpg9ynatagu.jpg

How hard was this to install? where did you get the signal from and how did you route your wires? looking to get this as well

Posted

For those with the floor mounted console I was able (after some slight modification to the box) able to fit one of these:

 

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6HpvOuQQHai/p_13616LW3V3/JL-Audio-CP106LG-W3v3.html

 

 

in the location of the stock bose sub. Of course I didn't have a stock bose subwoofer that's why I did it but honestly it would be excellent upgrade to the Bose woofer as well, little 150 watt alpine amp going to it and I've got all the bass I could want. Slightly too much actually now i need an amp for the stock speakers to boost em up a bit I guess... I would post pics but there's nothing to see ;) completely hidden...

Posted

anyone know the ohms of the stock speakers, and if its possible to just replace the stock amp? i don't want to run power and all that junk, i'd just like the speakers to sound cleaner.

Posted

For those with the floor mounted console I was able (after some slight modification to the box) able to fit one of these:

 

 

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6HpvOuQQHai/p_13616LW3V3/JL-Audio-CP106LG-W3v3.html

 

 

in the location of the stock bose sub. Of course I didn't have a stock bose subwoofer that's why I did it but honestly it would be excellent upgrade to the Bose woofer as well, little 150 watt alpine amp going to it and I've got all the bass I could want. Slightly too much actually now i need an amp for the stock speakers to boost em up a bit I guess... I would post pics but there's nothing to see ;) completely hidden...

I'm very interested in hearing more about how you modded the box, where you tapped into the signal, where you mounted the amp. Its exactly what I want to do thanks

Posted

I'm very interested in hearing more about how you modded the box, where you tapped into the signal, where you mounted the amp. Its exactly what I want to do thanks

I "military tapped" the signal from behind the screen. The green connector I believe. Top left I'm pretty certain. I used an amplifier (alpine mrv-m250) that has line level inputs or whatever it's called, it also uses the signal from those wires to turn amp on so no need for a 12v source, then ran the tapped wires down to amp, pretty simple.

 

 

As for the box, I have it facing down with the port located forward and on drivers side.

Making it fit was relatively simple surprisingly. With the center console out I just tried to fit it in there, noted where it needed some trimming, removed the carpet from those areas (three total) then dremeled it till it fit. The areas were on the two sides and one forward passenger side on the front of the box. The two sides had an area about 4"x6" that needed to be cut down about a quarter inch and the front needed some of the overhang of the box cut flush.

 

To make it simple if i were to do it again i would just cut the overhang off either side then cut roughly 1/4 inch off of the sides with a table saw and be done with it. It would fit with room to spare with that done.

 

I apologize for the lackluster description, pictures would make it obvious but pulling the console out isn't simple enough just for a couple of pictures. I got the idea from another build: AWESOME AWESOME build btw

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/build-logs-project-install-gallery/159994-2014-chevy-silverado-musicar-northwest.html

 

 

You can see the two side cuts on that box I'm referring too. It will be obvious when you are trying to get it in there.

 

 

All in all it was way easier for me to do it this way instead of building a box from scratch. The little ported 6.5" W3 is an awesome little setup. Best of all, it's not in the way and not visible.

Posted

You guys going ported or sealed boxes? Anyone else like sundown?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,980
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Fishboat
    Newest Member
    Fishboat
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 453 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey guys, sorry for the confusison about this. This wasn't my experainnce, it was copied and pasted fom the net. 
    • The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...