Jump to content

Price paid?


Capt39

Recommended Posts

Posted

I am looking to posibly purchase a new 2014 GMC Sierra 4x4 all-terrain, either in sle or slt trim.

 

I have been looking at GM family pricing which makes it much more enticing but not exactly excited about the pricing still.

 

One dealership just tried to tell me that GM doesn't allow them to doiscount more than employee pricing and it is set in stone, how true is this?

(I don't trust dealerships, not a even a bit)

 

Also, I'm looking to get out the door for $38k to $40k with trailerbrake, all-terrain 20's, convience and value packages, and the 5.3. Is this possible on a slt or just an sle?

 

Thanks!

I was told the same thing. But the price magically came down when I told them I was at other dealerships and I was making a decision who to go with today.

 

Don't think you can get a SLT out the door for $40k. Maybe a double cab. You probably can get a SLT crew cab z71with 20's for $39-40k before TTL

  • Replies 2.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Yea, it was wishful thinking considering how they price these rigs lately.

 

As much as I am unhappy with the Dodge relaibaility, I just can't get around paying almost as much for a gas truck as my 3500 diesel cost when it was new.

Posted

I am looking to posibly purchase a new 2014 GMC Sierra 4x4 all-terrain, either in sle or slt trim.

 

I have been looking at GM family pricing which makes it much more enticing but not exactly excited about the pricing still.

 

One dealership just tried to tell me that GM doesn't allow them to doiscount more than employee pricing and it is set in stone, how true is this?

(I don't trust dealerships, not a even a bit)

 

Also, I'm looking to get out the door for $38k to $40k with trailerbrake, all-terrain 20's, convience and value packages, and the 5.3. Is this possible on a slt or just an sle?

 

Thanks!

 

I was at a dealer looking at the Equinox before I picked up my truck, and the sales rep kept repeating over and over "You're getting supplier pricing, that's the dead nuts lowest price." Every time I heard that was just more doubt in the fact that he was being honest. He followed up on his quotes with some more sad tactics the morning I bought my truck from another lot. I was happy to let him know.

Posted

Yea, it was wishful thinking considering how they price these rigs lately.

 

As much as I am unhappy with the Dodge relaibaility, I just can't get around paying almost as much for a gas truck as my 3500 diesel cost when it was new.

 

I know what you are saying, but look at what they want for a '14/'15 diesel 3500 today. Flat out scary.

 

But the pre dpf diesels are holding their value amazingly well if you are parting with it. Should have never sold my 2007.

Posted

I know what you are saying, but look at what they want for a '14/'15 diesel 3500 today. Flat out scary.

 

But the pre dpf diesels are holding their value amazingly well if you are parting with it. Should have never sold my 2007.

Agreed its stupid the cost of vehicles and people paying what they are for em. Talking about pre dpf trucks. Alot of farmers around us are just rebuilding there trucks new motors and whatever else rather thang trading every so often like they used to cause the new trucks suck so bad. Everyone loves there new fancy high dollar diesels but put them in a ratio to who actually works them vs the old diesels and that will give you and idea. Most new diesel owners just ride around for show.
Posted

I just purchased my first Silverado. I bought a crew cab with the short bed in the ltz trim. Vehicle was a demo. It had 5000 miles on it. It didn't have a sunroof or DVD. Seemed to have all other options. It is not a 4x4. I paid 35k before tt&l. MSRP was $45900

Posted

I continue to follow this forum thread, even though it has been a couple months now since I bought my truck.

Would like to make a suggestion regarding TTL (taxes, title, registration...the things your local state controls) in OTD pricing. These taxes and fees vary greatly from state to state from no sales tax to over 10%.

 

If the numbers quoted on this thread would be "price paid" plus TTL. it would help those comparing numbers to see a more accurate number. Fees and equipment/options your dealer adds on should be included. Documentation fees, Dealer Prep, the fee for taking your check and depositing it. :) ..etc. Those are negotiable. But is very helpful to break out those items for the people trying to compare.

 

I honestly think at this time of the season, you should be getting in the $9-10G off MSRP plus TTL. Especially on the more well equipped trucks. Don't get to wrapped up in all the incentives. Let your dealer work out the numbers. The flip side of this is that if an dealer MSRP includes a bunch of "over valued" dealer add-ons, $10G off may not be as good of deal as it appears. Focus on the factory numbers, then make sure you are only paying realistic numbers for the dealer add-ons.

 

I love my new SLT w/5.3. Ride is ridiculously quiet and smooth. Turning radius is nuts. Mileage: took it on a 1,600 mile trip. Best mileage over 25 miles was 25.1, Best mileage over 400 mile stretch was 20.6. In town driving, it struggles to get out of the mid-teens. Overall avg. with 4,000 total is 17 mpg.

 

Happy shopping and comparing!

In my case this wouldn't help others . I Live in Missouri and i bought in Illinois. I traded a 2010 Audi Q5 for my Silverado. Although i Traded my Q5 I owed what they gave me for it @20K. When Missouri does your Taxes on a New Vehicle you recieve a tax credit on the Trade amount of your traded vehicle... I.E $20k so to the State i bought a $33k Car and traded a $20k car and only pay taxes on $13k. My sales Tax was only $765.00 for my truck . So adding all that in and telling anyone wont help because each states taxes are different and how each state handles trades are different. I would just stick to what the Bottom Line Price you paid was before TTL. cause there are too many nuances to that. Same goes with Warranties and aftermarket crap . Everyone Has different taste and might not buy warranties or paint protector or scotchguard for the cloth interiors...

Posted

In my case this wouldn't help others . I Live in Missouri and i bought in Illinois. I traded a 2010 Audi Q5 for my Silverado. Although i Traded my Q5 I owed what they gave me for it @20K. When Missouri does your Taxes on a New Vehicle you recieve a tax credit on the Trade amount of your traded vehicle... I.E $20k so to the State i bought a $33k Car and traded a $20k car and only pay taxes on $13k. My sales Tax was only $765.00 for my truck . So adding all that in and telling anyone wont help because each states taxes are different and how each state handles trades are different. I would just stick to what the Bottom Line Price you paid was before TTL. cause there are too many nuances to that. Same goes with Warranties and aftermarket crap . Everyone Has different taste and might not buy warranties or paint protector or scotchguard for the cloth interiors...

 

Yes, I agree 100% with you. We are trying to say the same thing....maybe you just did a better job! :thumbs: Your example is exactly why it is more beneficial if everyone posting numbers would not include TTL (the fees/taxes/etc your dealer has no control over) in the OTD dollar amounts they post on this thread. And you are also correct on the "aftermarket crap" including ext. warranties....those are huge profit centers for dealers. To me, the two most telling numbers are Factory MSRP and the purchase price including dealer doc. fees (but not including trade-in, dealer add-ons, or TTL)

Posted

2WD trucks for the same price as 4x4 just doesn't make any sense. might as well buy the 4X4 even for those 2 times a year you might need it, it will make more money back on trade or resale value when you do decide to sell it or upgrade.

Posted

Msrp 42210

Trade in 15k

Owed 15875

Paid OTD 34750

14' silverado double cab LT z71 4x4 5.3l

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Msrp 42210

Trade in 15k

Owed 15875

Paid OTD 34750

14' silverado double cab LT z71 4x4 5.3l

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sounds like the Same Deal i got Pretty much . Awesome! I came out a little ahead cause they paid what i owed exactly for my trade

Posted

2WD trucks for the same price as 4x4 just doesn't make any sense. might as well buy the 4X4 even for those 2 times a year you might need it, it will make more money back on trade or resale value when you do decide to sell it or upgrade.

 

4WD are about 3-4K more expensive here in Texas. If they cost the same I'd get one too.

 

You posted pics of your truck here yet? I'm having a hard time deciding between victory red and topaz blue.

Posted

 

4WD are about 3-4K more expensive here in Texas. If they cost the same I'd get one too.

 

You posted pics of your truck here yet? I'm having a hard time deciding between victory red and topaz blue.

Blue Wrapper i posted several today for you to check out. Hope this helps I love this Color . It has just the Right amount of Mettalic for my taste and when its clean and the Sun hits it ... Looks just awesome.

Posted

Blue Wrapper i posted several today for you to check out. Hope this helps I love this Color . It has just the Right amount of Mettalic for my taste and when its clean and the Sun hits it ... Looks just awesome.

 

Thanks, that color looks so different in various lighting.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,787 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...