Price paid?

lefty421 · July 9, 2014

Looking into buying my first new vehicle and am getting a bit overwhelmed with all the numbers being thrown around online and at the dealership.

I've heard things from supplier pricing is good to even employee pricing is a crap deal.

Below I've got two copies of invoices (with necessary information blacked out) of trucks I'm interested in with the deal the dealership is willing to make off the bat. They are saying supplier pricing is the absolute lowest they can go, however I've heard people on this forum talk about getting their trucks for lower than that.

Just looking for a bit of clarity on all the numbers I'm looking at.

Should I just ask them straight up how much the car costs them for real? Even though I doubt they will give me a straight answer. I know the "invoice" price isn't anywhere close to the real price they paid.

Anyways, any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Good luck getting anybody at a dealership to divulge that info... doubt many on the sales floor would even know to begin with.

Generally, supplier pricing is higher than the invoice price. Employee pricing is lower than invoice price. I wouldn't pay any of those prices though. I would only consider them starting points for negotiations. If you have an employee pricing authorization code, then employee price would be the starting point. If you don't have an employee code, then supplier or invoice price will probably be your starting point. They may say they don't negotiate, or that the prices are set, but I guarantee you that isn't the case.

If you aren't getting dealers to compete for the sale, then they have little to no incentive to negotiate their price. Its supply and demand. You are the demand, they are the supply. If you are going to limit yourself to dealing with only one dealer, then you are limiting the supply and the price will go up. If you have many dealers competing for your sale, then you increase the available supply of trucks to pick from and you can get a better deal.

If the last dealer told you supplier pricing is the best they can do, then go to another dealer and say "I'm going to buy a truck and Dealer X just offered me supplier pricing to buy my truck through them, Can you do any better on the price than that?" If they say no, then walk, if they say yes, then take their offer and tell them you'll think about it. and then go to the next dealer, etc... Until you get the price down to what you are comfortable paying. If that doesn't appeal to you, then you can do the same over email. Just email bomb a bunch of dealers what you are looking for and then shop around the best offers, keep expanding your list of dealers.

I visited a bunch of dealers and got what I thought was a pretty good price, then email bombed a bunch of larger and mega-mall type dealerships around my state and the surrounding states until one of them offered what I was looking for at an even bigger discount.

The best offer I could get within my state was $9.5K off sticker ($5K employee discount and $4.5K in rebates). The large out of state dealer offered the same for $11.5K off sticker ($5K employ and $6.5K in rebates) and also threw in a Line-X spray-in bedliner on top.

It pays to shop around.

btw, I went with Summit White too!

sirbOOm · July 9, 2014

Truecar.com. I said I want $1K less than a great price on that or I'm leaving... and they gave it to me after their usual whining and diatribe about how I'm cutting into commission and throwing him over the coals and he has kids to feed and all that poop. Badabing, badaboom - 15-min. process - here's what I'll pay, take it or I will drive home and not buy a truck today because, honestly, I shouldn't be. Ended at about $10K of the sticker, not include f'ing taxation. Could I have gotten more off, meh... maybe. I'm not going to get my panties in a bunch over it. I don't wear undies anyway... not natural. JK They also gave me far too much for my trade because someone that worked there wanted my car... so they had it sold that day.

4x4_Sierra · July 9, 2014

Good luck getting anybody at a dealership to divulge that info... doubt many on the sales floor would even know to begin with.

Generally, supplier pricing is higher than the invoice price. Employee pricing is lower than invoice price. I wouldn't pay any of those prices though. I would only consider them starting points for negotiations. If you have an employee pricing authorization code, then employee price would be the starting point. If you don't have an employee code, then supplier or invoice price will probably be your starting point. They may say they don't negotiate, or that the prices are set, but I guarantee you that isn't the case.

If you aren't getting dealers to compete for the sale, then they have little to no incentive to negotiate their price. Its supply and demand. You are the demand, they are the supply. If you are going to limit yourself to dealing with only one dealer, then you are limiting the supply and the price will go up. If you have many dealers competing for your sale, then you increase the available supply of trucks to pick from and you can get a better deal.

If the last dealer told you supplier pricing is the best they can do, then go to another dealer and say "I'm going to buy a truck and Dealer X just offered me supplier pricing to buy my truck through them, Can you do any better on the price than that?" If they say no, then walk, if they say yes, then take their offer and tell them you'll think about it. and then go to the next dealer, etc... Until you get the price down to what you are comfortable paying. If that doesn't appeal to you, then you can do the same over email. Just email bomb a bunch of dealers what you are looking for and then shop around the best offers, keep expanding your list of dealers.

I visited a bunch of dealers and got what I thought was a pretty good price, then email bombed a bunch of larger and mega-mall type dealerships around my state and the surrounding states until one of them offered what I was looking for at an even bigger discount.

The best offer I could get within my state was $9.5K off sticker ($5K employee discount and $4.5K in rebates). The large out of state dealer offered the same for $11.5K off sticker ($5K employ and $6.5K in rebates) and also threw in a Line-X spray-in bedliner on top.

It pays to shop around.

btw, I went with Summit White too!

Thanks for the great advice!

Right now I've got a dealership at almost $9100 below MSRP and still competing with another dealer.

MSRP - $50590

Negotiated Price - $45500

Rebates - $4000

Final - $41500

Title/License Fees - $389

Is $10,000 off MSRP pushing it too much? I really don't know what a "good/great" deal on a truck like this is.

Im guessing your $11,500 off is gonna be near impossible for me since I don't have a GM employee code?

Prod30 · July 10, 2014

I think if you can get anywhere from 7k-10k off msrp I'd consider that a good deal in my opinion. Depending on the trim level of course (2wd/4x4, double or crew etc..) I also live in Texas, so trucks are always in demand.

Just go with the dealer that you feel most comfortable with and that's willing to work with what you need. I even got free Line-X bedliner included in the deal. Never hurts to ask

austingta · July 10, 2014

I think if you can get anywhere from 7k-10k off msrp I'd consider that a good deal in my opinion. Depending on the trim level of course (2wd/4x4, double or crew etc..) I also live in Texas, so trucks are always in demand.

Just go with the dealer that you feel most comfortable with and that's willing to work with what you need. I even got free Line-X bedliner included in the deal. Never hurts to ask

I've been reading this thread, and this is my opinion too. I don't fight the dealer for every dollar (this 2014 is the third truck in a row I've purchased from my dealer), and from what I see here my deal was comparable. But then again, I'm not buying too much truck for my budget. I can see that, sometimes, arguing over a few hundred dollars between a few dealers might be important.

SlavO · July 10, 2014

This is how I look at it... OTD they say $42.500 , I say f it Then the next day do the math $700X 72= and say FFFK! 7,000 mil going on her tomorrow not 1 problem For me going to try to have it payed for in 48months that means I'll be working every Saturday for a long time

4x4_Sierra · July 10, 2014

I think if you can get anywhere from 7k-10k off msrp I'd consider that a good deal in my opinion. Depending on the trim level of course (2wd/4x4, double or crew etc..) I also live in Texas, so trucks are always in demand.

Just go with the dealer that you feel most comfortable with and that's willing to work with what you need. I even got free Line-X bedliner included in the deal. Never hurts to ask

Yea, I'm not trying to get the lowest price in the history of purchases, I just want a good deal, which it seems somewhere between 8k - 10k is.

It's a fully loaded 4x4 crew SLT, which have been selling like hot cakes up here in New England, not a single dealer has one on their lot.

I'm at $9100 off MSRP right now, I'll either go for $9,500 - $10,000 off MSRP, or ask for the bed liner, all weather mats, and mud flaps and call it a deal.

It's getting to the point where I just want my damn truck

Prod30 · July 10, 2014

Yea, I'm not trying to get the lowest price in the history of purchases, I just want a good deal, which it seems somewhere between 8k - 10k is.

It's a fully loaded 4x4 crew SLT, which have been selling like hot cakes up here in New England, not a single dealer has one on their lot.

I'm at $9100 off MSRP right now, I'll either go for $9,500 - $10,000 off MSRP, or ask for the bed liner, all weather mats, and mud flaps and call it a deal.

It's getting to the point where I just want my damn truck

I'd say you're getting a great deal then. Just tell them you haul things in the back, regardless if you do or not and don't want it getting all scratched up. Basically tell them to throw in the bed liner for free and write it up. I'm more than certain they will accept. That's all I did. I already had the weather mats and flaps on the truck I purchased so no problem there. Good luck!

4x4_Sierra · July 11, 2014

So I took several posters advice from earlier posts about contacting all the dealerships via phone or email instead of walking in, and I have to say the process is just so much better.

When I started I was walking into places, sitting there for at least 2 hours and getting nowhere with negotiating price.

However since I took some of your guys' advice I have emailed 12 dealers in my surrounding area and have all of them fighting for my business at prices I thought were impossible to get.

I will NEVER step foot inside a dealership again unless its to pick up my new vehicle.

BlueWrapper · July 11, 2014

So I took several posters advice from earlier posts about contacting all the dealerships via phone or email instead of walking in, and I have to say the process is just so much better.

When I started I was walking into places, sitting there for at least 2 hours and getting nowhere with negotiating price.

However since I took some of your guys' advice I have emailed 12 dealers in my surrounding area and have all of them fighting for my business at prices I thought were impossible to get.

I will NEVER step foot inside a dealership again unless its to pick up my new vehicle.

How exactly do you play this strategy out? Are you emailing about specific vehicles on their websites?

What exactly do you say to them?

patriot · July 11, 2014

It works. It saved me 10K off sticker on my '14 Silverado.

The best way is to NOT deal with them any way BUT email. That way there's no pressure, and YOU have all the power. They want to sell a vehicle? Then they'll play by YOUR rules. Ask for OTD price. Don't talk trade or financing until AFTER you have the price for the EXACT vehicle you want. Go to a credit union for financing. They usually have the best deals. I use PenFed and USAA.

As far as trades go, if you can wait, sell it outright. You'll do better. I didn't want the hassle so I traded my old one.

KARNUT · July 11, 2014

The ads in Houston are pretty hot in the papers which is a good starting point.

lefty421 · July 11, 2014

It works. It saved me 10K off sticker on my '14 Silverado.

The best way is to NOT deal with them any way BUT email. That way there's no pressure, and YOU have all the power. They want to sell a vehicle? Then they'll play by YOUR rules. Ask for OTD price. Don't talk trade or financing until AFTER you have the price for the EXACT vehicle you want. Go to a credit union for financing. They usually have the best deals. I use PenFed and USAA.

Mostly true, but currently, GM is offering 0%/72 months until Monday. Hard to beat 0%.

patriot · July 11, 2014

Mostly true, but currently, GM is offering 0%/72 months until Monday. Hard to beat 0%.

Good news indeed IF that is with ALL other incentives.

4x4_Sierra · July 12, 2014

Good news indeed IF that is with ALL other incentives.

I was told it takes away some of the other incentives they give you so its a numbers game.

Not sure how true that is though...if there's one thing I've learned over the past week its to trust about 10% of wjat the dealer says, unfortunately.