Jump to content

Oil catch can?

C25A1guy

By C25A1guy
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted

I have decided to go with the Elite catch Can. I just have a few questions. What type of bracket would I need/choose for a spare battery box area mount when ordering off their website? and does it require me purchasing steel wool? I Cant remember if it does or not. Thanks in advance.

  • Replies 1.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

ToesonTheNose
ToesonTheNose

Here at RX now they are doing a video install on my truck

Jay700
Jay700

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

fondupot
fondupot

So, I added a second output fitting to my Original RX catch can. I had been emailing with the RevExtreme folks about the benefits of a dual output can, and they were gracious enough to send me the par

Posted Images

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted (edited)

Another 2016 Camaro 6.2 pic. Routing of hoses that come off valve cover and TB area seem to be a little different. Maybe they changed it for production?

 

Chevrolet-Camaro-SS-2016-moteur.jpg

 

Check out those shorties. Totally tubular... Looks like the intake manifold is the Vette manifold with the slight turned down throttle body. The pan looks like a dry sump.

 

My take on the hose that T-s into the crossover hose (in the engine in the car) from the rocker covers, is that it's the "dry side" and has a small separator and hooks into the side of the intake duct. There will be some kind of drain back to the sump. No car maker would have you draining a can every 500 miles. They haven't made a car that needed service at 500 miles in 80 years. But I don't see a wet side PCV separator in the picture. Maybe under the intake duct?

Edited by spurshot
Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

But I don't see a wet side PCV separator in the picture. Maybe under the intake duct?

 

I was thinking it's that top hose toward the back of the engine. It looks like the port on the right is the intake into the valley cover. But I can't tell if the other end of the hose is coming out of a catch can or oil/water seperator of some sort or if it's coming straight out of the crankcase port. The article isn't very clear about what this engineer actually did to the engine. He could have just made that mod to the clean side lines. Or not. They don't explain it very well...

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted (edited)

.....

 

 

No car maker would have you draining a can every 500 miles. They haven't made a car that needed service at 500 miles in 80 years.

Yeah they don't want owners under the hood of "their" products. They want to convince everyone that there's magic under there - the car just magically moves by itself with no mechanical help! LOL

Edited by Jsdirt
Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

I have decided to go with the Elite catch Can. I just have a few questions. What type of bracket would I need/choose for a spare battery box area mount when ordering off their website? and does it require me purchasing steel wool? I Cant remember if it does or not. Thanks in advance.

 

If you order our standard Catch Can, you can let the order default to the bracket and we'll send you the correct one. The bracket we supply can be used on the master cylinder or battery box area, it's the same bracket for both locations.

 

Thanks!

:thumbs:

  • Like 1
Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted

If you order our standard Catch Can, you can let the order default to the bracket and we'll send you the correct one. The bracket we supply can be used on the master cylinder or battery box area, it's the same bracket for both locations.

 

Thanks!

:thumbs:

sounds good! That's what I ended up doing. I just didn't have the patients to wait for a response. And what about the filter material? Steel wool or no?
Elite Engineering Enthusiast

Elite Engineering

Posted
Posted

sounds good! That's what I ended up doing. I just didn't have the patients to wait for a response. And what about the filter material? Steel wool or no?

 

 

Yes, our Catch Cans come with a Stainless Steel mesh in the diffuser chamber

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

Yeah they don't want owners under the hood of "their" products. They want to convince everyone that there's magic under there - the car just magically moves by itself with no mechanical help! LOL

 

Yeah, I can see that...

 

But also, I've driven more than 1000 miles in one day. So, I'd be emptying the catch can twice a day on a trip like that? That's not a "system" in my opinion. That's a "hobby".

  • Like 1
mjj Enthusiast

mjj

Posted
Posted

sounds good! That's what I ended up doing. I just didn't have the patients to wait for a response. And what about the filter material? Steel wool or no?

From my understanding it has a stainless steel mesh in the top and it does not need to be replaced or need any regular maintenance. I've had my Elite can for about 6 months now and I think its a very nice product that really works well.

  • Like 1
07Softail Senior Enthusiast

07Softail

Posted
Posted

I emptied my can today and all i'm getting is water...I installed it at 1000 miles and I hit 3600 miles last week and I have had my truck a year in July and i don't get any oil when draining it.

 

RT

SkiDooNick700 Enthusiast

SkiDooNick700

Posted
Posted

So anyone here running the catch can and also going to have the dealer do the cleaning treatment that is recommended at 15k miles (per my dealership anyway)?

Jsdirt Senior Enthusiast

Jsdirt

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't have a dealer do anything to my truck unless it's covered by warranty, but that's just me.

 

The warranty ship set sail for me along, long time ago.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)

So anyone here running the catch can and also going to have the dealer do the cleaning treatment that is recommended at 15k miles (per my dealership anyway)?

I'm running a catch can and doing the BG induction service every 15k miles but I'm not having the dealer do it. I have a mechanic with his own shop that I take all my vehicles to. But yeah a catch can will help a lot but you can't stop 100% of everything getting through and dirtying up your engine so an induction service is necessary to truly keep the valves clean.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted

 

But also, I've driven more than 1000 miles in one day. So, I'd be emptying the catch can twice a day on a trip like that? That's not a "system" in my opinion. That's a "hobby".

 

 

What? You don't want to be one of the "cool" people in here that posts pics of his catch can contents everytime he drains it? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,804
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    LCH14
    Newest Member
    LCH14
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,393 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 8l90

      By newdude · Posted

      I'd change the fluid and start there.   198F is nothing for the 8L90.  They typically operate 180-200F stock.  
    • LCH14
      2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 8l90

      By LCH14 · Posted

      Looking for help!   2019 GMC Sierra 1500 - 5.3l 4x4 8l90 61k miles - truck is in Arizona, was over 110 outside on Monday when this whole situation transpired. Never had any major issues with transmission until this point:   Truck sat outside my construction office for approx 1 hour idling before I realized, ran around the job site wrapping some things up for the day and then left. Went to get food and sat in the drive through for approx 30 minutes idling. As soon as I pull out of the drive through and onto the main road, rear tires lock up and feels like transmission fell out of the truck. Shifted to park, shut the truck off and tried again, same thing happened. Was able to reverse into parking lot (truck slammed into reverse). Let the truck sit turned off for 10 minutes before trying again, but it continued to happen. Towed truck back to my house. Highest the trans temps reached was 198.   Friday, after work I start looking into the situation. Truck sat in my driveway untouched all week. Truck is now driving like normal, transmission doesn’t get over 185 degrees when trying to heat it up. Got up to 60 multiples times with no issues, no issues accelerating, only down shifted hard into first one time at 185 degrees. Does anyone have any insight? Never through a code or a check engine light. Truck has never been used to tow either. No transmission services at this point.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Atlas won.   I know better, but I did it anyway. I took a compressed air line with a chuck and rubber tip and jammed it in the open EGR port. The port was clear as far as I could see, and as far as I could poke with a flexible wire, but that doesn't mean it's not clogged.   Compressed air blew back at me along with a cloud of black. Oops. I didn't have the rubber tip seated in there all the way. Jammed it up in there some more and squeezed the chuck. PSI was set to 120. Poof! It blew back at me again. Third time...pfffffttssssssspffffffsssfffffff, face full of carbon, and then, kind of a thud..and the air stopped spraying back at me. It was now exiting the exhaust with a low shhhhhh sound as it flowed through the pipe. Something broke free. I pressurized the port again, and air flowed.   Made my day.   Long story short on this problem, it's fixed. Something was really blocking the EGR passages down low, and compressed air blew it apart. I don't recommend this as who knows what debris was sent where. But it's allowed me to move forward, mentally, and onto the next problems I need to get this little S-Blazer going down the road properly again.  
    • Coastie05
      Show Us Your 2019 & Up T1 Pictures !

      By Coastie05 · Posted

    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      Your truck lowered, looks good. I'm happy with the stance on this. I may need the extra ground clearance given my location/situation.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...