Jump to content

Range Technology V8 AFM Disable Module


Lmlduradenali

Recommended Posts

Posted

yea I would use a voltmeter and check it at park and then when you come back out in the morning to confirm if it is the battery or not.

  • Replies 170
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

yea I would use a voltmeter and check it at park and then when you come back out in the morning to confirm if it is the battery or not.

 

Thanks, I might actually just get rid of the Range unit. I've been driving without it the past two weeks and really can't tell much difference other than seeing the V4/V8 on the screen change..

 

Keep eyes peeled for a for sale thread.

Posted

 

Thanks, I might actually just get rid of the Range unit. I've been driving without it the past two weeks and really can't tell much difference other than seeing the V4/V8 on the screen change..

 

Keep eyes peeled for a for sale thread.

 

IF they have the oil burn/lifter issues properly fixed, you should be ok running a sometime 4 cylinder...

Posted

 

IF they have the oil burn/lifter issues properly fixed, you should be ok running a sometime 4 cylinder...

 

I was not really concerned about that issue. I'm confident the AFM issue has been resolved in these motors. It flips back and forth between V4 and v8 flawlessly. I just wanted to try the unit for a while to see how it operates in V8 mode all the time. Putting my Range unit up for sale today.

Posted

 

I was not really concerned about that issue. I'm confident the AFM issue has been resolved in these motors. It flips back and forth between V4 and v8 flawlessly. I just wanted to try the unit for a while to see how it operates in V8 mode all the time. Putting my Range unit up for sale today.

Interested in it shipped to 28327.

 

Just PM me.

Posted

 

I was not really concerned about that issue. I'm confident the AFM issue has been resolved in these motors. It flips back and forth between V4 and v8 flawlessly. I just wanted to try the unit for a while to see how it operates in V8 mode all the time. Putting my Range unit up for sale today.

 

My inside sources tell me that was fixed back in 2010/2011. Also my boss has a 2011 Tahoe with 132,000 miles on it mostly highway which is when V4 mode is mostly engaged and he's not consuming a drop of oil. Also remember GM puts AFM in every truck engine now on the 1500's, not just the 5.3L. That's a lot of trucks on the road burning oil if it's still a problem which leads me to believe they're confident in the fix as well.

Posted

 

My inside sources tell me that was fixed back in 2010/2011. Also my boss has a 2011 Tahoe with 132,000 miles on it mostly highway which is when V4 mode is mostly engaged and he's not consuming a drop of oil. Also remember GM puts AFM in every truck engine now on the 1500's, not just the 5.3L. That's a lot of trucks on the road burning oil if it's still a problem which leads me to believe they're confident in the fix as well.

 

Bingo. Which is why I am not concerned! :thumbs:

Posted

Yes that is what I have been told. Late 2011s on. Hope you/they are correct. If I replace my 09, the afm will be tuned to stay off. I am waiting for sure till these new engines have plenty of miles. Once one pays 45,000 for an oil burner with a trans that is programed for crap, one is a little gun shy.

Posted

Yes that is what I have been told. Late 2011s on. Hope you/they are correct. If I replace my 09, the afm will be tuned to stay off. I am waiting for sure till these new engines have plenty of miles. Once one pays 45,000 for an oil burner with a trans that is programed for crap, one is a little gun shy.

 

I kind of wish I knew about this range unit when I still had my 2007. I love my 2014 but the 2007 was paid off and $200 for this unit may have solved my oil consumption issues. At least buy me a couple more years while they get the kinks worked out of these newer trucks. Oh well hindsight is 20/20 and can't go back now.

Posted

 

I kind of wish I knew about this range unit when I still had my 2007. I love my 2014 but the 2007 was paid off and $200 for this unit may have solved my oil consumption issues. At least buy me a couple more years while they get the kinks worked out of these newer trucks. Oh well hindsight is 20/20 and can't go back now.

 

I hear ya. I would have done the same or tuned out afm if I had known. But the oil burn issue hit like a wave. Suddenly the GMT-900 trucks were drinking oil. I too think they have solved that problem. However I will wait, unless the stage one fix on my 09 does not work. Will be waiting just to see what else may pop up on the '14s. Ford has had serious issues with the variable cam etc...Figure GM will have it right..

 

Besides the 09 oil burner, I also have a '90 GMC suburban that was painted twice by GM for bad paint. Neither repaints did any good. Just gun shy right now. For our run around when in town cars, we have a V-6 accord and a TSX. Both have over 100,000 miles. Each doing just fine for now. But trucks and fast rwd cars are much more fun.

Posted

My 1996 Silverado with 175k miles drank a quart of oil every 3-4k, and it didn't have AFM. My 2003 Yukon with 170k miles drinks a quart every 5k miles and it doesn't have AFM.

 

Just saying...

Posted

My 1996 Silverado with 175k miles drank a quart of oil every 3-4k, and it didn't have AFM. My 2003 Yukon with 170k miles drinks a quart every 5k miles and it doesn't have AFM.

 

Just saying...

 

Those are just old motors yo...prolly got some gaskets leaking.

Posted

 

Those are just old motors yo...prolly got some gaskets leaking.

Nope, neither one leaks/leaked any oil. The 2003 is clean as can be on the outside. The 1996 did start leaking up front and from the pan, but I replaced both gaskets which fixed the leaks. They both just burn a little oil, which is my point. Older engines tend to do that. I'm not convinced that AFM is cause of ALL the oil burning problems as people claim.

Posted

Nope, neither one leaks/leaked any oil. The 2003 is clean as can be on the outside. The 1996 did start leaking up front and from the pan, but I replaced both gaskets which fixed the leaks. They both just burn a little oil, which is my point. Older engines tend to do that. I'm not convinced that AFM is cause of ALL the oil burning problems as people claim.

My guess would be the oil rings, or the valve seals. Compression may test good, but the oil rings or valve seals could be leaking..

 

MIke

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.
    • I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]
    • Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L.  400SS.
    • You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...