Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

It is not standard equipment on the 2014 Silverado WT Trim level. I had to get Dee Zee DZ43101 Tailgate Assist. This works great and does the same thing. Easy to install.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Dee-Zee-DZ43101-Tailgate-Assist/dp/B001PWFPE8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395109009&sr=1-2&keywords=ez+down+tailgate

 

Check fit for WT.

Edited by PMattras
  • Like 1
Posted
I chuckled at the way GM shows off this feature like they invented it. Really? you mean JUST LIKE the toyota and nissan had like 8 years ago??? My brother has a tundra and he's been laughing at my tailgate for 5 years.

 

LTZTom: awesome truck BTW

 

 

Really? It's a nice feature but I've never, ever seen another truck with it and felt all down GM hadn't gotten around to doing it yet. Besides your brother has nothing to laugh at with the noodle frame Toyota uses. Plus, it'll probably rust away to nothing like the rest of their trucks.

Posted

2014 GMC Sierra 1500 Regular, Double and Crew Cab doesn't have the EZ tailgate.

 

 

http://www.deezee.com/products/32813/Truck_Bed_Accessories/Tailgate_Assist/Truck_Tailgate_Assist.html

 

Part #: DZ43101

Product: TRUCK TAILGATE ASSIST

Color: BLACK

Vehicle: GMC SIERRA 1500 (2014 - 2014) WT

 

Same as Chevy.

Posted

It is not standard equipment on the 2014 Silverado WT Trim level. I had to get Dee Zee DZ43101 Tailgate Assist. This works great and does the same thing. Easy to install.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Dee-Zee-DZ43101-Tailgate-Assist/dp/B001PWFPE8/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395109009&sr=1-2&keywords=ez+down+tailgate

 

Check fit for WT.

 

I had that on my RAM and it worked great, simple to install and did the job. However, it's nice that it's integrated on the new truck, one less bar sticking out when the tailgate is down vs the old truck.

Posted

I had that on my RAM and it worked great, simple to install and did the job. However, it's nice that it's integrated on the new truck, one less bar sticking out when the tailgate is down vs the old truck.

On the Chevy WT and GMC Sierra you have no choice. The E-Z tail gate is not available. This is the best thing if you have no choice.

Posted

On the Chevy WT and GMC Sierra you have no choice. The E-Z tail gate is not available. This is the best thing if you have no choice.

Correct. Not avail on WT or base Sierra.

Standard with the SLE/SLT and LT/LTZ packages.

 

Locking tailgate is standard on all versions.

Posted

Really? It's a nice feature but I've never, ever seen another truck with it and felt all down GM hadn't gotten around to doing it yet. Besides your brother has nothing to laugh at with the noodle frame Toyota uses. Plus, it'll probably rust away to nothing like the rest of their trucks.

We work construction, Our tailgates drop several times daily. It's a really nice feature. And forget the Toyota frame, the rearend, traction control and ABS make it undriveable on slick roads. My wifes Highlander is the same.

Posted

I've never dropped a tailgate ever... but I also don't slam my truck around when I open and close things either..

 

sent from my truck in a field

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 11 months later...
Posted

I agree that the tailgate with "assist" is a bear to get off... almost like it was stuck in there. The driver's side was the sticking point.

 

But what you all have not touched on is "re-installing" the tailgate after you remove it... I am there and can't figure out how to ghet the assist to work again. BUMMER!

Posted

I agree that the tailgate with "assist" is a bear to get off... almost like it was stuck in there. The driver's side was the sticking point.

 

But what you all have not touched on is "re-installing" the tailgate after you remove it... I am there and can't figure out how to ghet the assist to work again. BUMMER!

I haven't tried mine, but I thought the only difference to traditional tailgate was after removing RHS from pivot (in the usual 1/2 open position) was that the tailgate needs to then be raised close to vertical before removing from LHS.

 

(Raising to near close to release pressure from the assist)

 

Do I have bad info?

Posted

I haven't tried mine, but I thought the only difference to traditional tailgate was after removing RHS from pivot (in the usual 1/2 open position) was that the tailgate needs to then be raised close to vertical before removing from LHS.

 

(Raising to near close to release pressure from the assist)

 

Do I have bad info?

You are correct in your info: The tailgate was a bear to remove for me also but when I reinstalled I used a bit of grease in each end to prevent this in the future.

Posted

I didn't see any mention of the torsion rod that is inside the tailgate, just the damper.

Posted

I didn't see any mention of the torsion rod that is inside the tailgate, just the damper.

All I can tell you is without that little part behind the taillight the tailgate drops like a rock. My belief is it's all in that part.

 

Check out post #10 in this thread.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/170667-tailgate-removalreinstall-now-it-drops-like-a-rock/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 350 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...